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Discussion Starter #1
Hey There!

I was just given a new Craftsman router with bit set for a gift in order to help with building a table for a Big Green Egg grill.

Anyhow, I am a true rookie when it comes to building. The only thing I have built is a changing table for my daughter (which actually turned out well). I did use a table router in that project.

My main concern is how to cut the hole in the table top and what bit to use? I'm planning on cutting through a 2x6 top (I was also given lots of 2x6s). I could change that material if that is too thick? It needs to be a 21" hole. Once it is cut, I was thinking of smoothing it over with a round over bit; how much would that change the opening of the hole?

Also, when rounding the edges of the 2x6's, which bit? Will it cover a board that thick?

Sorry for all the questions, but like the title says, I'm a rookie. Any input, links, videos would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Ya'll !!
 

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Tim, do you want the grill to fit into the table top? Is the grill 21" diameter? How much clearance is allowed around the grill?
 

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Hey There!

I was just given a new Craftsman router with bit set for a gift in order to help with building a table for a Big Green Egg grill.

Anyhow, I am a true rookie when it comes to building. The only thing I have built is a changing table for my daughter (which actually turned out well). I did use a table router in that project.

My main concern is how to cut the hole in the table top and what bit to use? I'm planning on cutting through a 2x6 top (I was also given lots of 2x6s). I could change that material if that is too thick? It needs to be a 21" hole. Once it is cut, I was thinking of smoothing it over with a round over bit; how much would that change the opening of the hole?

Also, when rounding the edges of the 2x6's, which bit? Will it cover a board that thick?

Sorry for all the questions, but like the title says, I'm a rookie. Any input, links, videos would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Ya'll !!
Good Morning Mike, I just got finish building one of the tables for that Big green Egg. I used the circle attachment for the router and a 1/4 cutter. They do make a long straight 1/4 inch bit. I've seen them 3 inches long. I would also use a screw to hold the attachment in place. Lower the bit just a little at a time, with the 2X6's it will take several trips around, just don't try to rush it. For the round over just don't cut the center board completely through on both sides. You can use the attachment to guide the round over, if you don't the round over will fall into the gaps between the 2X6. After you get the round over done you can use a saber saw to cut that that is left. Then finish up with rasp and a sander to round over that little bit, no body will ever see that little bit. Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps, Good Luck, :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank y'all for the input!! Yes Mike, the grill will drop down into the hole to rest on the bottom shelf. BGE recommends that size hole for the size grill I have. It will have a small gap between the grill. Thanks again .
 

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My main concern is how to cut the hole in the table top and what bit to use?
Plunge router

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Home made circle jig - while you can buy table-top sized circle jigs they're expensive and it's fast, easy, and almost free to make them out of scrap sheet goods (plywood or MDF, 1/4" - 1/2"). I copy the mounting pattern from a sub-base, drill and counter sink the holes, mount up the router, and mark the center with a grooving bit. Then I draw a couple of lines originating at the center but diverging so that there's room to drill out pivot holes for close diameters like 12" + 1/8" to make a 12" disc with a 1/4" bit and 12" - 1/8". The pivot points for circles get drilled along those lines. I like to use 1/8" drill rod for the center since there's no slop. I make clearance for any bit I'd like to use with a Forstner bit. Then I move and loose the circle jig so I need to make another one but I recommend skipping that step.

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There are lots of bit options. The least expensive would be to use whatever 1/2" straight bit you have. It'll be stiffer than a 1/4" bit and is likely to have at least 1" of cutting edge plus more over-all length than a 1/4" bit. Be sure to subtract 1/2 a bit diameter in this case which is 1/4" so you'd put your center pivot at 10.25" from the bit center. Plunge while you're moving taking off 1/4" per pass and repeat after removing shavings until you run out of bit. Then cut the rest of the way through about 1/8" short of of the edge with a jig saw and finish off the other side with a flush-trim bit.

A spiral up-cut bit would provide better chip extraction. A long enough bit could go all the way through (be sure to anchor both your work and the waste piece if you do that) but a nice 1/2" diameter x 2" spiral upcut bit is a $60 chunk of steel/cobalt/carbide. I like to stop 1/32" from the bottom, separate the center with an Xacto knive, and finish with a flush trim for a better finish on the under side.

I'm planning on cutting through a 2x6 top (I was also given lots of 2x6s).
It's fine.

Also, when rounding the edges of the 2x6's, which bit?
Whatever you prefer cosmetically. I like a 1/2" round-over on pretty much everything including my lawn furniture made out of redwood 2x4s.
 

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Ok, now I understand what you are doing. A picture is worth a thousand words.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank ya'll so much for your help!!! Here is the finished product. Not bad for a rookie.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks again to all for your help on this subject. I have finished my table and will post pics as soon as the restrictions are lifted on my account.
 

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Well done Tim!
 

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Nice job Tim I like it :)

I have a very OLD coke bottle opener now I know what to do with it but I think I will hang a pork-and -bean can under it to catch the lids off the bottles :)


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So here it is ya'll !! Couldn't be more happy with it.





 
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