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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have done many successful 3d carves. lately I have a lot of fuzz and lines in my finishing pass (what a mess lately). I trammed my machine and adjusted the stepover and used different tapered ball noses. I even slowed it down. I use Vcarve Pro, I have a lot of sanding to do on every carve now. I am getting very depressed over this issue. I would appreciate any advice on how to fix this messy issue. I have run this same file before and it came out much cleaner than this.




Handwriting Wood Font Wall Artifact
Natural environment Wood Beige Landscape Trunk
Brown Wood Handwriting Font Beige
 

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on the job set up screen, check your resolution at the bottom (std, high, very high), and step over sb about 8-10%, how much material are you leaving on the roughing pass? as Mike mentioned (it looks like it might be oak in the pic??), which doesn't carve well in my book.

whenever i need help, i watch a few tutorials on 3d work to pick up more finer details. try the vectric tutorials, and i like roger webbs video's
 

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The type of wood and the grain pattern is the main factor in fuzz. I get less fuzz by cutting across the wood grain instead of with it. But some fuzz is typical on 3D relief. I have found that a rotary nylon abrasive is an efficient way to remove most fuzz.
I'm looking at your pictures, what size finishing bit are you using?
 

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Since you have run the same file previously with good results, if you are using the same bit and the same parameters, then the bit is likely dull. If you have changed the parameters - feeds and speeds - then those changes and a dull bit may be the culprits.
 

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Try doing your 3D finishing pass in Raster mode and use somewhere between 25 and 35 degree angle. As mentioned in a previous post, some woods do not carve very well. I've never had good luck with open grain woods.
 

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Help needed from experienced 3d carver
That is not me, but I do have the same cnc you have, I just do v carve scripture pretty much. A few weeks ago at the onset on covid around here my cnc had been carving spot on in the simple things I carve, but started acting goofy, and progressively got worse. I called Wesley and told him what it was doing. He advised me to check all the screws on the plate where the router is attached. The 16 small screws were tight, but the 2 philip head screws behind the router backed off just a little, they were not tight as I think they should be tight. I removed them both, blue loctite, and re tightened them both, tight. We both have been on the covid crap for the past for the past few weeks, so I have not spent but a few minutes with it, re trammed it, etc. I really have not felt like messing with it, but I know I had two screws that came loose.
I think it is ready to go now at least.

Hope this helps,
Ray
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did maintenance on my machine. Cleaned it, lubed it, re trammed it, and resurfaced the spoilboard. Then purchased new bits. I re-ran the same file and it came out much cleaner. I worked on the machine for several days making sure I checked everything. I now have clean projects coming off the machine. I want to thank all of you for the advise and taking the time to help me.
 
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That is great. I got the issue on mine corrected as well. The depth started good but got deeper as it went. I watched it until I figured out the collet on the lead screw was slipping just a little z axis. Got new collet pretty much the same thing. I even flipped the lead screw same thing. The collet just would not hold it without slipping.
I did two things to fix it, which seem to be doing great. The collet was not slipping on the motor shaft just the lead screw end. I could with a pretty good tug pull collet and lead screw apart with the little screw as tight as it would tighten. I took some super glue on the end of the lead screw as pushed it into the collet until bottomed out. Second thing I did,, because the collet and z plate are so close together, tiny gap. I took some electrical tape and wrapped the outside face of the collet, 3 or 4 times around tight. I think it maybe was slipping a little and got worst with time until it just would not hold steady at all. Running like a champ now, ;).
I hopefully am going to attempt some 3d craving like I see most all of you doing very soon. I was given a load of red oak wood, huge pieces, 5 pieces split in half top to bottom making 10 pieces swats my F-250. :) I will cut them all into maybe 3" blocks and let them dry out, plane and shape them up, to carve into them.
You all have a great weekend ,
Ray
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That is great. I got the issue on mine corrected as well. The depth started good but got deeper as it went. I watched it until I figured out the collet on the lead screw was slipping just a little z axis. Got new collet pretty much the same thing. I even flipped the lead screw same thing. The collet just would not hold it without slipping.
I did two things to fix it, which seem to be doing great. The collet was not slipping on the motor shaft just the lead screw end. I could with a pretty good tug pull collet and lead screw apart with the little screw as tight as it would tighten. I took some super glue on the end of the lead screw as pushed it into the collet until bottomed out. Second thing I did,, because the collet and z plate are so close together, tiny gap. I took some electrical tape and wrapped the outside face of the collet, 3 or 4 times around tight. I think it maybe was slipping a little and got worst with time until it just would not hold steady at all. Running like a champ now, ;).
I hopefully am going to attempt some 3d craving like I see most all of you doing very soon. I was given a load of red oak wood, huge pieces, 5 pieces split in half top to bottom making 10 pieces swats my F-250. :) I will cut them all into maybe 3" blocks and let them dry out, plane and shape them up, to carve into them.
You all have a great weekend ,
Ray
I did have an issue with my z carriage linear rail block. There was a few ball bearings missing and was binding up. Since I could not purchase the ball bearings, I had to order another linear rail and blocks. Well, at least I have spare bearings now just in case I lose any in the future.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Try doing your 3D finishing pass in Raster mode and use somewhere between 25 and 35 degree angle. As mentioned in a previous post, some woods do not carve very well. I've never had good luck with open grain woods.
Thank you for the tip on the angle while running a raster tool path. I was thinking about that today. I am still learning and really appreciate the advise. I will look for some tutorials in 3d carves hoping to learn some more. I am doing pretty good since I fine tuned my cnc and purchased new bits.
 
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