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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
Has anyone tried to use triton guides on a router table?
Any help with description on your current setup for the guides on a router table is greatly appreciated.

My plan is to do a custom router table similar to the wonderful and simple Oak-Park table as seen on the router workshop show, if you have seen it. I'm also doing a DIY router plate made of 5mm alu. Measures are 280x280mm.
I went for another router initially (bosch 1400) and was planning to use PC style brass bush rings and counter rings. So I drilled the holes for bosch router and the 32mm bush hole, milled the recess for it, etc, but then I decided to change router for a Triton 2400W.
Re-drilled the router fixing holes, all was good except two things:
1) The central 32mm hole is now too small so the router will not extend fully outwards, preventing the change of bits from the top and preventing the use of bits bigger than 32mm (not so uncommon).
2) the PC bush guides are a bit difficult to access and also stand on the way further limiting the router depth range.

So obviously I need to drill a larger hole and find another way to fit the guides. Thats why I was looking at triton's own guides system.

Now, the way I see it is that I have to drill this larger hole (how big? the same as triton router or black plastic disc inner hole, maybe?), fit the metal disc where the guides (and black plastic ring) will be fixed, and connect to the plate.

Problem is that the black plastic ring spacer is 11mm thick, my plate only 5mm, so I guess I have to put something 6mm thick in between the router plate and the triton metal disc, otherwise the plastic ring will not be flush with the plate, right?

My other questions:

1) will I loose 6mm (or even the entire 11mm?) of bit travel by doing so, or this doesnt count as it is part of the dead travel to extend the router outwards for bit changing?

2) I'm normally keen to work on the router table with as little open hole as possible, so isn't the opening with the plastic ring (and especially without!) a bit too much? Is there a way to place an insert with no flange to reduce it? Thats the reason I like PC style brass rings and counter rings, you can have the flange guides you want and a lot of insert brass rings too to reduce the hole...

Dave
 

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wow, no one is using a triton router in a table?
Hi David,

Quite a few members use the Triton Router in a table (myself included). Your question was on using the Triton guides in a table. I doubt many do that as you have to mount the router in a plate and each plate has it's own system for mounting third party guide bushings.

I use an Oak Park plate and Oak Park Guide bushings in the table, and these work very well.

When I bought my Triton router, the Triton guide bushings were not available.

I would suggest you use a plate from one of the many manufacturers ( Trend? in Europe) or read the sticky from Mike on making your own plate with settings for insert rings which take Porter Cable type guide bushings.

http://www.routerforums.com/guide-bushings-templates/8114-making-your-own-sub-base-plate.html

Just make a larger (11" x 11") square plate for the table. (this is the size of the Oak Park plate)

I doubt the Triton guide bushing set is meant to be used in a table.

http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/product/RTI_PLATE/3/240/router_table_insert_plate_.html
 

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wow, no one is using a triton router in a table?
Would you care to repeat that! The Triton was designed for table use where it excels, but as a plunge router it falls short.
As for the original question, as James said.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi,
thanks for answering. You were right jw2170, my fault. However I thought more people were using triton guides on a table as I find the concept really neat. Two screws and you change the guide from the top. Very quick and easy.

My early attempts at using PC guides with this router were not so great. I made a plate with a hole to fit PC guides, the problem was accessing it.
Trying to lock the brass counter-ring from below was really hard, nearly impossible if you had the transparent dust collector fitted.

So for you guys who have a guide system with rings and counter rings, do you have any problems mounting them on the triton?
Or maybe you have a bigger insert that you can remove from the table, fit the rings and then put it back?
Do you mind sharing a picture of your setup?
Thanks.
 

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So for you guys who have a guide system with rings and counter rings, do you have any problems mounting them on the triton?
Or maybe you have a bigger insert that you can remove from the table, fit the rings and then put it back?
I bought this system to use with my new INCRA plate.

I then have this system to work with my two hand-held routers (one is dedicated to 1/2" bits and the other to 1/4" bits). Both have the Milescraft base plate installed permanently. I also have this Offset Base that accepts either Router.

Call me a soutpiel but I like to have access to both Metric and Imperial so I have this system from MLCS which also happens to fit the Milescraft baseplates.

So essentially one Guide Bushing system for all my Routers (Triton, Ryobi and Bosch).
 

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Hi,
Trying to lock the brass counter-ring from below was really hard, nearly impossible if you had the transparent dust collector fitted.
I have never used the dust collection shields on my Triton and have had no problem so far....

I reach under the table to raise/lower the bit and also to change the bushing lock ring.
 

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David, the Triton guide bushings are rarely used in the US. Take a look at the sticky thread under guide bushings and templates to see the different styles. The larger Oak Park/Lee Valley style brass guide bushings will work with your Triton since there is a 1-1/2" through hole. I have been giving some thought to making a mounting plate to accept the Trend metric guide bushings. Use the black plastic plate as a template to lay our the size recess you need to fit the Trend bushings. There is room for both the plastic and/or metal bushings to mount in a 5 mm plate. Simply drill and tap the two holes needed to secure them. It does not take much material to hold the bushings, the recess in the aluminum will do that and you will not be applying great force against them. You could also drill through holes and use longer screws and wing nuts.
 
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