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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All
New here and hoping someone has experience with a Stanley dome top "R2D2". I picked one up at a garage sale last summer and went to use it yesterday but I don't see any way to lock the collet to tighten the bit. What am I missing?

btw--tried a search here but did not find anything.

Thanks for any help.
Kent
 

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Hi Kent

Some of the OLDER Stanley had a device on the top/side of the router that locks the arbor.


http://www.ebay.com/sch/items/stanl...nley+router&geo_id=9132&adgroup_id=3040820080


==

Hi All
New here and hoping someone has experience with a Stanley dome top "R2D2". I picked one up at a garage sale last summer and went to use it yesterday but I don't see any way to lock the collet to tighten the bit. What am I missing?

btw--tried a search here but did not find anything.

Thanks for any help.
Kent
 

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Kent, can you provide the model information off the router?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks Bob! There is a push button recessed into the top of the dome. I did not realize it was a button! That did the trick. And thanks for answering so quickly!
Mike--H14A is the only model info I see. It's an old (1950s I'm guessing) dome top. Can't post pics until I have 10 posts but if you google
'Old Stanley Router, H 14-A, R2D2 Round Top, Strong Motor, Small, Only 7" High'
there is a photo of one (not mine).
Thanks again
Kent
 

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Hi Kent

You're Welcome that R2D2 router is a good one ,like they say the more things change the more they stay the same.. :)

===

Thanks Bob! There is a push button recessed into the top of the dome. I did not realize it was a button! That did the trick. And thanks for answering so quickly!
Mike--H14A is the only model info I see. It's an old (1950s I'm guessing) dome top. Can't post pics until I have 10 posts but if you google
'Old Stanley Router, H 14-A, R2D2 Round Top, Strong Motor, Small, Only 7" High'
there is a photo of one (not mine).
Thanks again
Kent
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I put a dab of oil on the push button because it was just a little rusty, and when I rubbed the oil off, there were the printed instructions: "push button to.."

I made an adaptor plate out of plywood to mount it on my old (20 yrs?) Craftsman router table. I sold the old Craftsman fixed-base router that fit the table when I bought a new Craftsman plunge router (sadly, there's no room to keep a lot of tools). Turned out the new router would not fit the recess on the bottom of the table without making a 1/4" spacer. After cutting the spacer I realized I could use it instead to adapt the H14A to the table.
Not sure how well that is going to work. The router slips a bit from its sleeve while hanging upside down. We'll see....
Thanks again for the help
Kent
 

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Kent, Stanley routers were acquired by Bosch around 1965? There are no parts available anymore but the good news is bearings are bearings and often times brushes will interchange.
 

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Hi Kent

You can get one of the big hose clamps ( the type they use on dryer hose or big hose clamp with a hex head screw on it) and just slip it around the motor to keep it from slipping down.

Or just drill and tap a hole in the side of the mount for a brass thumb screw. :)
But I will say it's bit low on power for a router table but it's a great trim router..:)
====


I put a dab of oil on the push button because it was just a little rusty, and when I rubbed the oil off, there were the printed instructions: "push button to.."

I made an adaptor plate out of plywood to mount it on my old (20 yrs?) Craftsman router table. I sold the old Craftsman fixed-base router that fit the table when I bought a new Craftsman plunge router (sadly, there's no room to keep a lot of tools). Turned out the new router would not fit the recess on the bottom of the table without making a 1/4" spacer. After cutting the spacer I realized I could use it instead to adapt the H14A to the table.
Not sure how well that is going to work. The router slips a bit from its sleeve while hanging upside down. We'll see....
Thanks again for the help
Kent
 

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Assuming our routers are identical, mine has a round button on the top of the motor between the cord and switch. It has stamped on it, "DEPRESS TO LOCK SHAFT." You hold the button in with one finger while the router is up-ended and turn the shaft until the button clicks in further, locking the shaft, then use the wrench on the collet. The button is in plain sight, except that when the router is upside down you can't see it!

This is a neat little router, but don't push it too hard. It has less power than a modern laminate trimmer but it is very comfortable to hold and use. My dad bought mine in 1964 to make a few dovetailed drawers, then put it in the box and I just took it out for the first time last year. Looks and works like brand new!

Good luck!

Jim F
 

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Parts for a Stanley H-39-B/H-13-B Router

I recently acquired a similar old (guessing 60's?) stanley router.

Type/Model on master unit is H-39-B, Serial # CU4409
Type/Model on Base is H-13-B

Base is missing the "Clamp Screw" and I would really like to replace this part.

I was wondering if anyone could offer a source of info and replacement parts?
 

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stanely "R2D2" dome-top Router (H-39-B)

Hello,
I was lucky enough to find one of these great little routers at a flea market for $15. Could not pass it up. It even has the guide. It is if fairly good shape and the bearings sound great. Looks Identical to the photos in this thread. I cleaned it up and checked the brushes. Cord is not original but that is to be expected with a piece this old. Serial no is CU5150, 4.0 A, 115V. Any idea of the age based on this? I know from what I have read that this basic Stanely Carter design dates back to the late 20's which is pretty cool. Also is an manual out there for this router? It would be great to have it. Thanks.

Todd
 

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Chris, no parts are available for any of these routers.
 

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primitive Stanley shaft lock

I have an old Stanley it has no locking button; there is a hole that goes through the motor shaft located just above the collet nut. I use a heavy tapered scratch awl through the hole and let it jamb up against the base while tightening or loosening the collet with an 1 1/4" wrench. I suppose that a straight pin punch of the proper size would also be a good tool for the job.
 

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Any chance someone could send me a drawing of the wiring under the dome top or a picture of it. My power cord was disintegrating (original) and I cut it under the top without drawing the wire connections or taking a picture.

Sometimes I get tired of re-learning from previous lessons learned.
 

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Stanley H14a Router (R2D2)

Don't know if anyone has answered, but on the top of dome is a round button (flush with top). Just push that down and it will lock the motor so you can tighten the bits in the collet. I ended up with my dad's ole router. I started using this unit when I was about 8 years old, am now in my 70's. Don't know when my dad purchased this, but it was new and for a router, has about equivalent of a million miles on it". He was a cabinet maker and used it all the time! Along with that, I also have his old delta 2 inch belt sander and other equipment. These are all stored in some of the best carry caress you could buy in the late 40's-early 50's. 50 caliber ammo boxes. Carry well and protect even better. 1 for router, 1 for electric drill, and one for 2" belt sander. Along with these, is the 8 inch Delta table say and 4 inch jointer. All still work well, but currently stored away due to lack of space at new house.
 

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Stanley H13B

Is there anyone with a working Stanley H13B router - If so is there any chance you could send me a picture of one of the brushes and take some measurements so I can manufacture a couple to fix my old router
 

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I have one. Do you still need specs?
A generous offer but he joined solely for that one post in 2017 and hasn't been back since.
 
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