Here is what you should not do....
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Well, I suppose its OK... Unless you want to actually have an efficient system.
Maybe the HF unit could handle that. :grin::grin:
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I saw one recently that a fellow was so proud of where he piped the whole shop with 3" plastic and lots of 90°bends like he was plumbing for water. When he started the DC system, he had very little air flow.
Herb
Herb
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Okay, for someone who has only had to deal with DC on a small, basically bench top situation in the past, what exactly is wrong with these images please? What makes them bad an inefficient? This is something I'm going to need to be looking at going forward (If my plans work out at least) so any tips, comments or even better, pictures of a good setup would be most appreciated.
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I’m going to be putting together a write-up of my design and decision making process on my shop and dust collector implementation. I promise that I will detail how I went from a somewhat cumbersome shop layout and expensive overhead duct design to a much simpler, more efficient and inexpensive design — just be patient with me and all will become clear..
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Looking forward to it.I’m going to be putting together a write-up of my design and decision making process on my shop and dust collector implementation. I promise that I will detail how I went from a somewhat cumbersome shop layout and expensive overhead duct design to a much simpler, more efficient and inexpensive design — just be patient with me and all will become clear..
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I think one issue that most of us don't see or understand is how much we loose in vacuum just due to our design and implementation. I use to have the tools to measure airflow very accurately back when I was doing HVAC work. In many installations, especially commercial and industrial, we would use installed gauges to read pressures on both sides of the filters to indicate or set off an alarm for changing the filters. The set pressure drop would close a relay and then turn on the alarm. In telephone company switch rooms both temperature and airflow ere extremely important. A switch going down carries extremely high FCC fines that were levied depending on how long it was down. Needless to say we had redundant systems and redundant power supplies.
If the pipe is sized according to design you'll start off with a predetermined CFM and static pressure. As you deviate, add fittings such as 90, 45, and such you'll loose some of that pressure but using long radius fittings will help reduce that loss and straight runs will help as well. When I installed my 5HP Clear Vue 1800 there were a few good videos to help in getting it installed right. The link that Stick posted will help a good deal as well. One of the downsides of the types of fittings/pipe is that most don't fit the blast gates and so on. The eventual hose will also be something to deal with and should be kept as short as possible. When my system is in use I have only one tool using the DC. For some examples of how mine is piped see pages 3-5 here https://www.astral-imaging.com/woodworking_shop3.htm If cost had been no issue I would have used the spiral metal ducting with maybe several long radius 90s and several Wye connectors to split paths. However I used 6" PVC piping and a few 6"to4" reducers as close to the machines as possible. It is also very important to have a tight seal on the system as you'll see in my pictures. If you're into the particulars you can purchase water column static pressure gauges fairly inexpensively.
If the pipe is sized according to design you'll start off with a predetermined CFM and static pressure. As you deviate, add fittings such as 90, 45, and such you'll loose some of that pressure but using long radius fittings will help reduce that loss and straight runs will help as well. When I installed my 5HP Clear Vue 1800 there were a few good videos to help in getting it installed right. The link that Stick posted will help a good deal as well. One of the downsides of the types of fittings/pipe is that most don't fit the blast gates and so on. The eventual hose will also be something to deal with and should be kept as short as possible. When my system is in use I have only one tool using the DC. For some examples of how mine is piped see pages 3-5 here https://www.astral-imaging.com/woodworking_shop3.htm If cost had been no issue I would have used the spiral metal ducting with maybe several long radius 90s and several Wye connectors to split paths. However I used 6" PVC piping and a few 6"to4" reducers as close to the machines as possible. It is also very important to have a tight seal on the system as you'll see in my pictures. If you're into the particulars you can purchase water column static pressure gauges fairly inexpensively.
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You have a good set up and well documented too on p.3,4,5.
That Clearview is a great DC,noisey, but you have taken that into account with the soundproof enclosure.
The only improvement I could think of would be in the dust bin. I have the same size,a 32 gal garbage can, and I dispose of my collected sawdust in the garbage. So dumping the can into the garbage is not an option with our collector, It must be contained in a bag or box,etc.
So I put a black plastic bag into the DC container. The top of the plastic bag is taped to the outside of the DC can and the inside has a bent P-lam scrap to hold it from being sucked up and out til enough chips can hold it down.
Also my can is wedged up an inch off the bottom of the enclosure to make it easier to remove.
To empty I gather the top of the bag and tie w/a plastic wire tie and put it in the garbage collection container.
Herb
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Herb, I had thought of that as well but I sit on ten acres in the country, mostly wooded, and dump the sawdust in with the mulched leaves and compost. I got mine back a while ago during the Black Friday sales and got the oversized impeller. I can't say about the metal piping but running 20' long joints of that 6" PVC is really pushing the limit for me. I used the same cloth strapping we used to have duct work to isolate noise and vibrations. Putting some nails in the floor joists and using some 36" tie straps made it more doable. I also found things like CV's dual gate, 1-6" to 2-4" very handy on the router table. That gave me an out let for the fence and one for the router compartment. I seldom see sawdust on that table. I have another one at the miter saw station but have wrestled with trying to figure out a decent method to collect that sawdust. My gut tells me from below as the sawdust falls due to gravity but then I think about it being airborne first. With those two 4" connections I guess I could do one above and the other below. I don't honestly expect to get anywhere close to all of it. Most of my cuts have been 90 degree so I'd likely center on that. At least I'd have a place to sweep it too if I didn't get that much.
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I used the white 6" PVC,it wasn't a problem to hang alone, I made my own plywood hangers that I screwed to the ceiling. for blast gates I used the single CV clear plastic 6" ones then reduced to 4" at some of the machines and then to 2 1/2' to others. When I open the 4" or smaller blast gate, I always open another 4" to provide make-up air flow in the main duct to keep from getting any settling out in the main runs. I didn't glue the joints, taped most with the aluminum foil duct tape.
I only have 3hp w/ a 12" impeller, your 5 hp w/15" impeller will suck the socks off your feet with your shoes tied. Be careful not to stand too close to an open end.LOL
Herb
I only have 3hp w/ a 12" impeller, your 5 hp w/15" impeller will suck the socks off your feet with your shoes tied. Be careful not to stand too close to an open end.LOL
Herb
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