I’m going to be putting together a write-up of my design and decision making process on my shop and dust collector implementation. I promise that I will detail how I went from a somewhat cumbersome shop layout and expensive overhead duct design to a much simpler, more efficient and inexpensive design — just be patient with me and all will become clear..Okay, for someone who has only had to deal with DC on a small, basically bench top situation in the past, what exactly is wrong with these images please? What makes them bad an inefficient? This is something I'm going to need to be looking at going forward (If my plans work out at least) so any tips, comments or even better, pictures of a good setup would be most appreciated.
Looking forward to it.I’m going to be putting together a write-up of my design and decision making process on my shop and dust collector implementation. I promise that I will detail how I went from a somewhat cumbersome shop layout and expensive overhead duct design to a much simpler, more efficient and inexpensive design — just be patient with me and all will become clear..
You have a good set up and well documented too on p.3,4,5.I think one issue that most of us don't see or understand is how much we loose in vacuum just due to our design and implementation. I use to have the tools to measure airflow very accurately back when I was doing HVAC work. In many installations, especially commercial and industrial, we would use installed gauges to read pressures on both sides of the filters to indicate or set off an alarm for changing the filters. The set pressure drop would close a relay and then turn on the alarm. In telephone company switch rooms both temperature and airflow ere extremely important. A switch going down carries extremely high FCC fines that were levied depending on how long it was down. Needless to say we had redundant systems and redundant power supplies.
If the pipe is sized according to design you'll start off with a predetermined CFM and static pressure. As you deviate, add fittings such as 90, 45, and such you'll loose some of that pressure but using long radius fittings will help reduce that loss and straight runs will help as well. When I installed my 5HP Clear Vue 1800 there were a few good videos to help in getting it installed right. The link that Stick posted will help a good deal as well. One of the downsides of the types of fittings/pipe is that most don't fit the blast gates and so on. The eventual hose will also be something to deal with and should be kept as short as possible. When my system is in use I have only one tool using the DC. For some examples of how mine is piped see pages 3-5 here https://www.astral-imaging.com/woodworking_shop3.htm If cost had been no issue I would have used the spiral metal ducting with maybe several long radius 90s and several Wye connectors to split paths. However I used 6" PVC piping and a few 6"to4" reducers as close to the machines as possible. It is also very important to have a tight seal on the system as you'll see in my pictures. If you're into the particulars you can purchase water column static pressure gauges fairly inexpensively.