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Discussion Starter #1
I am Tom. I usually go by graywolf on lists where that is not taken. I am going on 63, and on disablity retirement having done this and that most of my life.

I just bought a PC VS combo kit. I have several projects in mind that a router would come in handy for, and was going to buy a B&D RP-200 at Wal-Mart, but the plastic look and feel put me off. Then I saw this PC on amazon, factory reconditioned, came to $126 with their current $25 off promotion. Heck, the local Lowes store gets $149 for the single speed fixed base. It came in the mail the other day. You can see that it had been used a bit before they refinished it and all, but it does not look abused.

I have been lurking on your forums for awhile, and based upon comments here I ordered a 24pc 1/4" bit set from Holbren. Figured that was the cheapest way to get started. While I have owned a router in the past it has been a long while and I figure that there is no need to ruin expensive bits getting my skils back. The bits should be here soon and then I can try my router out.

I live in an apartment so do not have room for a real shop. Because of that I will be working mostly with just a workmate, a skil saw, a drill, and the router. I figure that I can do most of what I want to do with that combination of tools. Although, I probably will want to get a sander before too long.

Projects projected: some baseboard molding, experimental speaker boxes, end tables, a couple of night stands, and maybe a knock down built-in book case. Since I am able to work only a couple of hours at a time, all that should keep me busy for a long while.

Anyway, I sure appreciate all the useful information you guys have posted here.
 

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Hi graywolf

Because you live in an apartment sounds like you may want to make a router table on a 2 wheel set up as one of your 1st. projects or put wheels on your WorkMate with a tool box under the top to hold your tools so you can make one trip to your work spot outside. :)
I know it can be a pain to lug all the tools you need from one spot to the other. :)
You can always make a router table to work with the WorkMate that can lock into the dogs on the top.

Some plywood and some phneumatic tires/wheels from Harbor Freight for 5.ooea. and you have it licked...:)


Bj :)
 

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Hello Tom. Welcome to the router forums.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the welcome, guys.

Bob, I have a surplus 3/4 inch melamine MDF shelf that would make a good top and an oak 2x2 that would make a fine swinging fence laying about. I might just follow your suggestion, although I have never used a router table in the past. Seems like all I would have to do is make an underside H-brace out of 1x2's to clamp into the workmate. My power tools are conveniently housed in an old TV stand with casters underneath and a tool box on top, so I seem to have anticipated your suggestion there.
 

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Hi graywolf

You're Welcome, Just my 2 cents, I would pickup a base plate for your router and inlay it into your MDF board and let it hang over one side of the WorkMate, then make a drop down leg to support it on the outside of the workmate.
In this way you can just pull the router out quick and easy to change bits,etc.without gettting on your hands and knees to work on the under side of the router.
Oak-Park (RWS) sells base plates for just about all the routers or you can find them at others outlets like Rockler.
For the top of the router table I would let the WorkMate do all the work by letting it clamp the top with some dogs under the top of the WorkMate so you still can use the Workmate for a work bench at the same time.
Almost all router jobs can be don't on a router table and with a quick made fence you will get what you want every time plus it's safe.
To save on the weight of the cabinet under the Workmate and the router top I would make the back side of the cabinet snap out and be use for the router top. (all in one thing) 4 ea.,1/4 turn fastners would work good for this job,hand type.
Again a Rockler item,,,,,with the router on a base plate you can store in under the Workmate when you don't need to use it or still use it for a plunge router without removing the router table base plate.
The base plates are 7" sq. the norm.some are bigger but I would stick with the 7" one, because you want to pull it out and store it way when you get done.

http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=BP--


Bj :)
 

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Greetings Graywolf.

I'm actually taking that idea a step further; I plan to make the workmate BE the router table. I picked up a few of these clamping tables at Harbor Freight. I plan to remove the top from one of them and replace it with my router table. When I'm not using it I'll be able to remove the router and fold away the table.

Right now it only exists in my head but hopefully I'll get started on it soon...

Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Way too complicated and expensive, Bob. With the back board in the farthest back slots my workmate opens 9 inches. With the 1x2 braces 8 inches apart (think of a tick tack toe grid with the top and bottom vertical lines cut off) you just drop the top it in and tighten the workmate clamp on the braces. To get at the router loosen the clamp and lift up the top. All I will need in the top is a hole big enough to clear my largest bit.

I am also thinking of maybe putting an oversize subbase on the fixed router base. Then routing a shelfed hole big enough to just drop the router in from the top. It would have to be designed big enough to clear the handles on the router. A couple of pins to keep the thing from turning and it would only take seconds to go from hand held to mounted it in the table and back.

What seems to have happened is that most folks have more money than time so they go for the complicated expensive store bought stuff. Social Security expects me to live on a literal pitance so I do not have that option.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
mpphoto said:
Greetings Graywolf.

I'm actually taking that idea a step further; I plan to make the workmate BE the router table. I picked up a few of these clamping tables at Harbor Freight. I plan to remove the top from one of them and replace it with my router table. When I'm not using it I'll be able to remove the router and fold away the table.

Right now it only exists in my head but hopefully I'll get started on it soon...

Michael

Basically that is what I am going to do, Michael, except that rather than having to deal with the split between the workmate clamping table and the router portion, I am thinking of just using a 16x24 piece of a inch 3/4 melamine shelf I have laying about with a brace under it that will drop in the slot between the workmate tops and they would clamp the router top in place. It will only add 3/4 inch to the height of the workmate. The router would just hang under the workmate between the open tops. When not in use I could just hang the router top on the wall.
 

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Hi Tom

If it's worth doing it's worth doing it right from the getgo :)
Keep this in mind most routers will not let the router bit go to the right height without a mounting base plate that's to say it can't be more that 1/4" to 3/8" thick the norm.
Plus The base plate will let you use the brass guides and that's a neat part of the router table.
If you just cut a hole in the top for the bit and mount the router you will run into errors, if you router a round spot on the bottom side of the top to drop the router into it will not hold the router if you use MDF.

Have a good one Tom

Bj :)
 

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Hi Tom

You are right :) and I didn't mean to come on so hard SORRY :).
Just trying to help, do you watch the RWS on your PBS or on your computer ?
at http://www.thewoodworkingchannel.com/ it's a great show and will help you.

Bj :)
 
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