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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, all. I am about to start the paint job on a full set of kitchen fronts. They are made from MDF and they are simply cut to size and the outer edges have been rounded off with a router.

Now, I have been wondering, researching, asking around and re-thinking a hundred times to finally come up with what I think of as a draft for the process. I would like to hear from you guys what you think about the order, the products, the sanding paper grit, and the number of coats for the different repeating steps. Or if you have a completely different suggestion that's fine too.

Here it is:

1 Dry sanding 120
3 Fine acryllic filler + fiber glass filler on open-pored edges
4 Dry sanding 240
5 Water based primer coat 1
6 Dry sanding 320
7 Water based primer coat 2
8 Dry sanding 400
9 Lacquer coat 1, color
10 Wet sanding 600
11 Lacquer coat 2, color
12 Wet sanding 600
13 Lacquer coat 3, color
14 Wet sanding 800
15 Lacquer coat 4, color
16 Wet sanding 800
17 Lacquer coat 1, clear
18 Wet sanding 1000
19 Lacquer coat 2, clear
20 Wet sanding 2000
21 Car polish + buffing till satisfied

It seems a little overkill, but it's the only way that makes sense right now. What do you think?
 

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Hi nordhagen

This is what I would suggest because it's MDF.

1 Dry sanding 120
5 spray on based primer coat
22 spray on paint with semi-gloss white or what ever ..MDF is one of the man made woods that's hard to get it all the same..(come out blotch )


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Hey, all. I am about to start the paint job on a full set of kitchen fronts. They are made from MDF and they are simply cut to size and the outer edges have been rounded off with a router.

Now, I have been wondering, researching, asking around and re-thinking a hundred times to finally come up with what I think of as a draft for the process. I would like to hear from you guys what you think about the order, the products, the sanding paper grit, and the number of coats for the different repeating steps. Or if you have a completely different suggestion that's fine too.

Here it is:

1 Dry sanding 120
3 Fine acryllic filler + fiber glass filler on open-pored edges
4 Dry sanding 240
5 Water based primer coat 1
6 Dry sanding 320
7 Water based primer coat 2
8 Dry sanding 400
9 Lacquer coat 1, color
10 Wet sanding 600
11 Lacquer coat 2, color
12 Wet sanding 600
13 Lacquer coat 3, color
14 Wet sanding 800
15 Lacquer coat 4, color
16 Wet sanding 800
17 Lacquer coat 1, clear
18 Wet sanding 1000
19 Lacquer coat 2, clear
20 Wet sanding 2000
21 Car polish + buffing till satisfied

It seems a little overkill, but it's the only way that makes sense right now. What do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hei, bobj3,

I really don't grasp how step 1 and 5 are any different from my list. Regarding step 22, if I've been able to obtain a perfect reflective high-gloss surface, why on earth would I coat it with semi-gloss white??
 

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Hi nordhagen

Cut some test boards, not all from the same board,then do your numbers.

I'm sure you will see what I mean..

I use and like MDF a lot but it's real nasty to finish ...without using paint.

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Hei, bobj3,

I really don't grasp how step 1 and 5 are any different from my list. Regarding step 22, if I've been able to obtain a perfect reflective high-gloss surface, why on earth would I coat it with semi-gloss white??
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi nordhagen

Cut some test boards, not all from the same board,then do your numbers.

I'm sure you will see what I mean..

I use and like MDF a lot but it's real nasty to finish ...without using paint.

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I really do apprechiate your contribution It's just that I'm having a hard time understanding your points. It might be because I'm Norwegian so English is not my native tounge. A couple of questions in return:

What do you mean by "then do your numbers"? Could it be that I should test the process on several non-adjacent pieces of MDF and then calibrate the order, repetition and sanding grits accordingly?

What do you mean by "without using paint."? Do you mean as opposed to laquer?

Øyvind
 

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HI

"then do your numbers"? )
You listed the steps you wanted to do by the numbers ...

"without using paint."? Do you mean as opposed to laquer? "
YES, MDF is funny stuff more or less like cardboard...and will take the finish just like cardboard..looks great in one spot then 2" from the good spot it will look like you use candle wax on the board.. funny stuff..

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I really do apprechiate your contribution It's just that I'm having a hard time understanding your points. It might be because I'm Norwegian so English is not my native tounge. A couple of questions in return:

What do you mean by "then do your numbers"? Could it be that I should test the process on several non-adjacent pieces of MDF and then calibrate the order, repetition and sanding grits accordingly?

What do you mean by "without using paint."? Do you mean as opposed to laquer?

Øyvind
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hmmm, sounds like you've encountered one or a few bad batches of MDF or just a so-and-so matsnufacturer. I know MDF edges soak a goo couple of coats before it starts to show if you don't use filler, but I've never have had any experiences like you are describing. Then again, I've never spray painted it until now.
 

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HI

spray is the only way to go :)

High Volume, Low Pressure Spray Gun Kit
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44677

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Hmmm, sounds like you've encountered one or a few bad batches of MDF or just a so-and-so matsnufacturer. I know MDF edges soak a goo couple of coats before it starts to show if you don't use filler, but I've never have had any experiences like you are describing. Then again, I've never spray painted it until now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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HI

I have one like it also But the High Volume, Low Pressure Spray Gun Kit, will put the paint on the job and not all over the shop..

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There are a couple of things about your finishing schedule I think might be improved upon.
1. MDF and any water from any source don't go together,if you are spraying lacquer(is it colored?) use lacquer sanding sealer instead of water borne anything.2. Most MDF is supplied with the faces at about 180g,so start with paper at a higher grit on all but the edges. You have laid out a very ambitious schedule and it should look good for MDF.

Regards

Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That's strange. I'm beginning to think MDF is manufactured a little differently in the US because all advice I've been getting on this from professionals in Norway goes in the direction of a water based primer. I have tried it, and two coats of it covers really well without swelling. The main reason for choosing a water based primer is to avoid a chemical reaction between the wax in the MDF, the primer and the thinner in the lacquer. Several people comfirm this, but then again several people would never dream of using anything other than automotive filler, primer and paint for something as scratch prone as kitchen fronts.

The lacquer is colored dark grey.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Today I finally finished cutting, routing and sanding all of the pieces and started to set up a couple of test pieces. Both have been sanded all over with 120 grit. Has been sprayed with water based primer and one has been covered with acryllic filler on the front and back and with Plastic Padding PP100 fibreglass filler on the edges.

Everytime I work with fillers I am reminded of how much I hate it.. I have definately got to try the 2comp sanding primer that I bought for the project a while ago. It can be sprayed on, yeay!

Anoyne hwo have tried Plastic Padding fillers before? I found it's really hard to do right because it's very thick and dries in 10 minutes. I didn't have a hope in hell of being done with one piece before it was too dried up to work with. I'll go looking for something else for the edges because that spray-on 2comp sanding primer was really expensive.
 

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Sounds like two much hardener, you can get away with a very small bit (and gives you extra working time). You may find clear fibreglass resin a bit better to use, as you dont tend to get the air bubbles like with plastic padding.
Cheers
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks, I'll try fibreglass resin next, cause PP100 was a nightmare. I blended in the hardener by the exact amount specified in the manual, but it is actually *supposed* to cure in 10 minutes, it says so on the pack. Who ever would prefer something that hardens in 10 minutes to something that takes, say 30 minutes to harden?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Images added

OK, so here are some images after I just finished sanding everything smooth with 120 and then 180 grit paper today.

I think now that I have decided to go for automotive paint, which changes the workflow a bit (for the better and shorter). This is what it currently looks like. I don't know if I actually need two coats of both base and clear coat, but I threw them in for good measure. Maybe I need two tries at both because I'm such a novice at this.

1 Dry sanding, 120 grit
2 De-greasing (Motip, see image)
3 Water based acryllic primer
4 Dry sanding, 180 grit
5 Spray filler (Hagmans, see image)
6 Dry sanding, 180 grit
7 Spray sanding primer (Glasurit)
8 Dry sanding, 800 grit
9 Base coat 1
10 Wet sanding, 800 grit
11 Base coat 2
12 Wet sanding, 1200 grit
13 Clear coat 1, klar
14 Wet sanding, 1200 grit
15 Clear coat 2, klar
16 Wet sanding, 2000 grit
17 Rubbing compound, repeat until satisfied

The photos show the MDF kitchen fronts of various sizes that have been cut, routed and sanded. The paper sheets are task lists for all the pieces, which now have to be replaced. Then there's a picture of the replecement compressor I got instead of the 6 liter 1.5 hp one the shop sold me the first time... Then a picture of the de-greasing stuff, one of my paint gun and lastly the 2-comp spray-on automotive filler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks! Yep, spraying is fun, but now winter has arrived and my garage temerature is 2-3 degrees celcius with a 70+ air humidity, so I might have to find somewhere else to do the paint work...?
 
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