I have a house that was built in the 50's. It has been decided that the kitchen needs a makeover. I am going to build rail and stile doors with ply insert and redo the drawers. A few questions first, the cabinets are a face frame construction. Does anyone have recommendations on the hinges? What to look for? Brand? Style? Etc... The drawers we want to add slides to. I was thinking either lower side mounted epoxy slides or undermount. What should I be looking for? Brands? Styles? How do you measure slides? Any and all information would be greatly appreciated. I want to make the kitchen better than it currently is, but on the flip side do not want to sink a fortune it as we will probably move in the next couple of years.
hinges and drawer slides
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Hi rh111
I recommend, this type of hinge,(see link below) it's quick and easy to install and you don't see any screws from the front side of the cabinet.
It's true that you need to take care when you cut the pocket hole(s) for the hinge but once you have that down it's duck soup to put them in the doors or to hang the door.
You can buy jigs to cut the pocket hole but most are not cheap and you need a
1 3/8" bit (35mm) but if you have a forrest bit set you have the bit you need, I made a jig to drill the holes if you want to see a snapshot let me know and I will post it,you need to use it on a drill press because the holes need to be dead on and I do mean dead on...
See the link below for the hinges,I just order 50pr. and they do work for both type of cabinets (frames frame and no face frame)
Now when it comes to drawer slides they can put you in the poor house if you don't take care with the price I used one that cost about 2.30 per.pr. (on sale price from time to time),painted white with rollers and they work great,(undermount type)they come in may sizes from 12" to 24" I just got 100pr. (18" and 20" long) 2 weeks ago and I do recommend them, if you need a link let me know and I will post it.
"How do you measure slides?" = the guides will take a 1/2" from ea. side of the drawer or to say cut the drawer 1 1/16" smaller than the opening.
Just a note***when you make the drawers think about using the jig that Oak-Park sells for box joints (3/8" slot type) they will let you make the drawer(s) quick and easy and they are hard to beat.
You can make a drawer in about 10 mins.and they will fit every time unlike the dovetail type.
Cabinet Hinge Face Frame Hinges Hardware 1/2" ov/lay
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cabinet-Hinge-F...5QQihZ005QQcategoryZ41973QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I recommend, this type of hinge,(see link below) it's quick and easy to install and you don't see any screws from the front side of the cabinet.
It's true that you need to take care when you cut the pocket hole(s) for the hinge but once you have that down it's duck soup to put them in the doors or to hang the door.
You can buy jigs to cut the pocket hole but most are not cheap and you need a
1 3/8" bit (35mm) but if you have a forrest bit set you have the bit you need, I made a jig to drill the holes if you want to see a snapshot let me know and I will post it,you need to use it on a drill press because the holes need to be dead on and I do mean dead on...
See the link below for the hinges,I just order 50pr. and they do work for both type of cabinets (frames frame and no face frame)
Now when it comes to drawer slides they can put you in the poor house if you don't take care with the price I used one that cost about 2.30 per.pr. (on sale price from time to time),painted white with rollers and they work great,(undermount type)they come in may sizes from 12" to 24" I just got 100pr. (18" and 20" long) 2 weeks ago and I do recommend them, if you need a link let me know and I will post it.
"How do you measure slides?" = the guides will take a 1/2" from ea. side of the drawer or to say cut the drawer 1 1/16" smaller than the opening.
Just a note***when you make the drawers think about using the jig that Oak-Park sells for box joints (3/8" slot type) they will let you make the drawer(s) quick and easy and they are hard to beat.
You can make a drawer in about 10 mins.and they will fit every time unlike the dovetail type.
Cabinet Hinge Face Frame Hinges Hardware 1/2" ov/lay
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cabinet-Hinge-F...5QQihZ005QQcategoryZ41973QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
If you can post a link to the guides, that would be great. And if it is not asking to much a pic of your drilling jig as well.
When you order slides, is the slide length to be the same as the drawer depth? Or am I missing something? I know that most of the epoxy coated slides that go along the lower outside edge are only 3/4 extension, which is fine by me (if I really want at the back of the drawer, then I can go digging), but is there extensions and brackets to mount the runner to the back of the cabinet as well?
When you order slides, is the slide length to be the same as the drawer depth? Or am I missing something? I know that most of the epoxy coated slides that go along the lower outside edge are only 3/4 extension, which is fine by me (if I really want at the back of the drawer, then I can go digging), but is there extensions and brackets to mount the runner to the back of the cabinet as well?
Hi rn111
Here's a link for the guides plus they sell many other items..
HIGH QUALITY, SELF CLOSING, EPOXY COATED SLIDES ▼
http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=938-251
"drawer depth?" = I use a guide that's 2" shorter than the drawer the norm.
"but is there extensions and brackets to mount the runner to the back of the cabinet as well?" = Yes, But I don't recommend them because most run down the center of the drawer and only use one runner, comm. cabinet makers use them for speed and because they are real cheap and use a staple to hold the bracket to the back side of the cabinet.
But I should note that the 938-251 guide can use the back bracket if you want to use it but I don't use them.
They recommend that you use them if you use the face frame cabinets but you don't need to if the cabinet is made right from the get go.
BUT you may need to because you are using the same cabinets and just replacing the drawers and doors.
See the same link for the back brackets if I recall they are about 60cents a pair.
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=929-052&LARGEVIEW=ON
You can buy full extensions guides that are not to high in price but just need to take care and not use them for all the drawers.
see the link for some of the prices.
I will take some snapshots of the jig ( hinge pocket hole ) and post them.
Bj
Here's a link for the guides plus they sell many other items..
HIGH QUALITY, SELF CLOSING, EPOXY COATED SLIDES ▼
http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=938-251
"drawer depth?" = I use a guide that's 2" shorter than the drawer the norm.
"but is there extensions and brackets to mount the runner to the back of the cabinet as well?" = Yes, But I don't recommend them because most run down the center of the drawer and only use one runner, comm. cabinet makers use them for speed and because they are real cheap and use a staple to hold the bracket to the back side of the cabinet.
But I should note that the 938-251 guide can use the back bracket if you want to use it but I don't use them.
They recommend that you use them if you use the face frame cabinets but you don't need to if the cabinet is made right from the get go.
BUT you may need to because you are using the same cabinets and just replacing the drawers and doors.
See the same link for the back brackets if I recall they are about 60cents a pair.
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=929-052&LARGEVIEW=ON
You can buy full extensions guides that are not to high in price but just need to take care and not use them for all the drawers.
see the link for some of the prices.
I will take some snapshots of the jig ( hinge pocket hole ) and post them.
Bj
Hi rn111
Here are some snapshots of the jig I use when I put in the pockets holes for the hinges.
I also use T-Bolts to hold the jig to the drill press they are quick and easy to switch out jigs on the drill press.
You can get a T-Slot router bit if you want or you can use clamps but the jig must be in the right spot and stay in the right spot on the drill press table.
You also will see a setup block in the snapshots I use it to set the jig up ,once it's set just pop in the frame and clamp it down and drill the holes, I almost aways drill the holes after I have the frame(s) done and I also keep one around just to check the setup b/4 I drill any new holes.
Note the holes on the back side and under side of the hole, they are need for the chips, from the cut and you will have many of them from a 1 3/8" hole 1/2" deep, you will need to stop from time to time and clean them out or they will change the setup.
---------
Note about ** rubber glass retainer
In the snapshots you will see a error in the corners of the frame ,the rubber retainer is not cut right on a 45deg.and it's a bit short from the corner, so I made a jig to fix this type of error.
In the snapshots you will see a door frame with brown rubber around the inside of the frame this type of frame is for a glass door but I had a hard time cutting the 45deg. ends to fit right, I did not fix the one in the snapshot because I wanted to use it to remind me of the error,plus it needs to be a 1/8" longer than the true size.
This rubber retainer fits into a 1/8" x 5/16" deep slot in the frame and it works great to hold the glass in place without any glue or other fastners.plus you can take it out if the glass needs to be replace.
Here's a jig I made to cut the retainer at a true 45deg. cut.see below..
-----------------
Hope this helps a bit.
If you need more info just ask
Bj
Here are some snapshots of the jig I use when I put in the pockets holes for the hinges.
I also use T-Bolts to hold the jig to the drill press they are quick and easy to switch out jigs on the drill press.
You can get a T-Slot router bit if you want or you can use clamps but the jig must be in the right spot and stay in the right spot on the drill press table.
You also will see a setup block in the snapshots I use it to set the jig up ,once it's set just pop in the frame and clamp it down and drill the holes, I almost aways drill the holes after I have the frame(s) done and I also keep one around just to check the setup b/4 I drill any new holes.
Note the holes on the back side and under side of the hole, they are need for the chips, from the cut and you will have many of them from a 1 3/8" hole 1/2" deep, you will need to stop from time to time and clean them out or they will change the setup.
---------
Note about ** rubber glass retainer
In the snapshots you will see a error in the corners of the frame ,the rubber retainer is not cut right on a 45deg.and it's a bit short from the corner, so I made a jig to fix this type of error.
In the snapshots you will see a door frame with brown rubber around the inside of the frame this type of frame is for a glass door but I had a hard time cutting the 45deg. ends to fit right, I did not fix the one in the snapshot because I wanted to use it to remind me of the error,plus it needs to be a 1/8" longer than the true size.
This rubber retainer fits into a 1/8" x 5/16" deep slot in the frame and it works great to hold the glass in place without any glue or other fastners.plus you can take it out if the glass needs to be replace.
Here's a jig I made to cut the retainer at a true 45deg. cut.see below..
-----------------
Hope this helps a bit.
If you need more info just ask
Bj
Attachments
Yep, no rejects, I have used about 12 of them so far they are all the same
They did come in a plastic bag and I did count them just to make sure of the total and it was over by 3 but that was fine with me. I didn't count the screws but they look ok also.
Bj
They did come in a plastic bag and I did count them just to make sure of the total and it was over by 3 but that was fine with me.
I didn't count the screws but they look ok also.Bj
Hi rn111
I like to use 1/2" SOLID wood for the drawers it's one of the 1st thing people look at
When they check your work out and plywood will always look like cheap const.plus if you put in dovetails or box joints they just don't come out clean even if you use birch plywood.
I do use 1/4" or 1/8" veneer plywood for the bottom part of the drawer because you don't see the edge of the plywood and it's stable and it's strong.
(1/8" for small drawers 4" x 6" or smaller)
You can use 3/4" solid wood for the drawers, if you round over the top edge, that makes it look smaller and not as bulkey..I will some times use a 1/2" bead bit that trims it out nice.(on the top edge)
Note***if you use a bead bit (bull nose) or thumb nail bit stop just sort of the front panel about 1/2" in this way you can slide the drawer in without a front panel and it will look right. (true and sq.to the face frame) or the case.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1218
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1219
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1029
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1031
Hope this helps
Bj
I like to use 1/2" SOLID wood for the drawers it's one of the 1st thing people look at
When they check your work out and plywood will always look like cheap const.plus if you put in dovetails or box joints they just don't come out clean even if you use birch plywood.
I do use 1/4" or 1/8" veneer plywood for the bottom part of the drawer because you don't see the edge of the plywood and it's stable and it's strong.
(1/8" for small drawers 4" x 6" or smaller)
You can use 3/4" solid wood for the drawers, if you round over the top edge, that makes it look smaller and not as bulkey..I will some times use a 1/2" bead bit that trims it out nice.(on the top edge)
Note***if you use a bead bit (bull nose) or thumb nail bit stop just sort of the front panel about 1/2" in this way you can slide the drawer in without a front panel and it will look right. (true and sq.to the face frame) or the case.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1218
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1219
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1029
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1031
Hope this helps
Bj
Took bobj3's recommendation on the hinges. Have put 2 doors up so far and good success. Not bad for the price.
Does anyone have some advice for drawer slides? Was looking at the Knape and Voght 1284 series (must be white according to better half). I had a suggestion from some one on Lee Valleys slides. I was leaning toward lower side mounts unless someone has a strong suggestion otherwise. Does anyone have a good quality source for a slide that does not brake the bank? I am only needing 6 sets of slides, so a bulk pack is kind of out of the question.
Thanks for all your help!
Does anyone have some advice for drawer slides? Was looking at the Knape and Voght 1284 series (must be white according to better half). I had a suggestion from some one on Lee Valleys slides. I was leaning toward lower side mounts unless someone has a strong suggestion otherwise. Does anyone have a good quality source for a slide that does not brake the bank? I am only needing 6 sets of slides, so a bulk pack is kind of out of the question.
Thanks for all your help!
Hi rn11
How about Grizzly, you can buy one or as many as you need at a good price.
H4526 Regular Drawer Slides - 22" at 3.25ea. in white
It's a bit lower at 6.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/h4526
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2006/Main/423
http://www.grizzly.com/products/H3292
http://www.grizzly.com/products/h3293
Yep I know Grizzly link AGAIN , but they do have lot that you and I need in stock.
Bj
How about Grizzly, you can buy one or as many as you need at a good price.
H4526 Regular Drawer Slides - 22" at 3.25ea. in white
It's a bit lower at 6.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/h4526
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2006/Main/423
http://www.grizzly.com/products/H3292
http://www.grizzly.com/products/h3293
Yep I know Grizzly link AGAIN , but they do have lot that you and I need in stock.
Bj
Took your advie once again and looked at Grizzly. I noticed that they are shop fox brand. Then the light bulb went off. I have a shop fox dealer right up the road. Stopped by there today. They are placing a order next week and I can order thru them when they order in tools for no freight. Not to mention since it is a tool supply store, my work and employees buy off of them. They got me slides for about a little less than grizzly, but with no freight.
Thank you bobj3 for all your help!
Thank you bobj3 for all your help!
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