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I'm a complete novice with respect to routers, and although I've read all the pertinent M12V stuff on the web I can find, I'm still a little stumped. I bought a Bosch cabinet style table-top router table at Lowes the other day on clearance. It has a nice tall fence and an aluminum plate, which I'll need to custom drill for the M12V's baseplate. That much I've got. My hangups are these:

1. My router came with the "fine adjustment" rod/knob...What is it's role in a table mounted application?

2. Do I really need to take the plunge springs out? Why or why not?

3. When the router is mounted on the table, do I want it compressed all the way, or extended all the way?

4. Do I really need to to saw the guideplate adapter ears off to swing big bits like panel raising bits? Isn't the bit going to be above the ears anyway? Why would Hitachi make something you have to destroy to be usable?

I have a real problem with spacial visualization, and I just can't figure out how raising/lowering the bit works in a table setup. Sorry for the ignorance, but if anyone can spell this stuff out for me, I'd really appreciate it. Hopefully, sometime I can return the favor.
 

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Hi vwmowery

The web site below is a great place to take a look around if you have a Hitachi router many HOW TO demo pages for the Hitachi user.

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bj :)
(1.) see URL link
(2.) yes, if you are going to use your router in a table
(3.) see URL link
(4.) see URL link ,I don't recommend it, but it will give you more room to get to the bit and many user of the Hitachi do remove it but it's up to you.

Bj :)
 

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1. My router came with the "fine adjustment" rod/knob...What is it's role in a table mounted application?
Adjusting the router bit height in small increments to exact height or dept of cut.

Do I really need to take the plunge springs out? Why or why not?
On some routers ( DW625) the springs are very tight so it helps to remove then in table mount operation. However, (M12v whichh I also own has light springs to bein with) I do not recommend it at all. It's EZ to forget that they have been removed and if you have to use the router in free hand mode. it will drop on your work and very risky!!

When the router is mounted on the table, do I want it compressed all the way, or extended all the way?
It all depends on your dept of cut or what you will be doing. Obviously the router bit has to extend to certain height so you can cut or trim or flush.
I recomment changing and tightening bits before placing the router in the table.

Do I really need to to saw the guideplate adapter ears off to swing big bits like panel raising bits? Isn't the bit going to be above the ears anyway? Why would Hitachi make something you have to destroy to be usable?
If at some point when you are proficient in router use and decide you need extremely large bits for projects and don't have a second router, then you can remove them. At this point, there is no reason to do so. By the time you get to the point that you will have to have large bit’s most likely you will go out and get a second router like Bosch 1619EVS which has the largest base opening and a spring load defeat.

I have a real problem with spacial visualization, and I just can't figure out how raising/lowering the bit works in a table setup. Sorry for the ignorance, but if anyone can spell this stuff out for me, I'd really appreciate it. Hopefully, sometime I can return the favor.
When you raise the router bit in the table, you increase the dept of cut. It’s really same as free hand. In free hand operation it’s called plunging deeper. So when you lower the router bit/ pull it back more in to the router you decrease the dept of cut. make sure your bit is always nice and tight in collet.

Most important is getting a face sheild and have fun SAFE!
 

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You would think after all the times BJ has posted that link his font would turn green!
 
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