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Discussion Starter #1
I have a M12v2 Router that runs fine til under load. It bogs down. The variable speed wheel does not work either.

Any ideas?:frown:
 

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capacitors in the speed control...
control wheel not connected to the speed pot...
needs new brushes...
 

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Welcome to the forum Darrell. All of Stick's suggestions are good possibilities.
 
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I have a spare V12 (it's a spare because I burned the speed controller out). I bypassed the speed controller and use an external one from Harbor Freight. I have noticed that although it works fine that I can bog it down when I press hard. From your description I would say that you need a new controller. A internal controller is almost as much as a new router.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks everyone!

That's what I was thinking, but it's great to get advice from ones who have walked a little farther down this road!

I am going to bypass the controller, check the brushes and see what happens.

I am setting up shop and wanted a good workhorse in my router table I just built. Bought this M12v2 off Ebay, I wasn't too surprised to find this problem. But the seller never mentioned this issue!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So, I checked the brushes, they look good.

I looked at the controller, and quickly figured out I am not versed in messing with it!

How in the world do you bypass this thing? I can see the black and white wires coming out, probably need to be connected. But it also has a red wire by itself, coming from the power switch. And a bundle with red, black and white coming out and going to the variable speed dial on the handle.

Would I cut and cap the single red wire. And unplug the 3 wires going to the speed dial. Then connect the black and white larger gage wires together?

I will get a variable external controller later, if I can achieve this step!

Thanks for any help guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I took a picture to detail the innards.

1 & 2 are the main power, and I am guessing that I would just need to connect them together.

3 is coming from the power switch, was thinking it just needs cut and capped?

4 just needs unplugged.

Are these what you'd call proper procedures?

Thank you for your prompt answers!
 

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Thanks everyone!

That's what I was thinking, but it's great to get advice from ones who have walked a little farther down this road!

I am going to bypass the controller, check the brushes and see what happens.

I am setting up shop and wanted a good workhorse in my router table I just built. Bought this M12v2 off Ebay, I wasn't too surprised to find this problem. But the seller never mentioned this issue!
You should consider contacting the seller. It may be used, but sellers may not pass off broken items as functional. Ebay will guarantee your purchase.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I got it cheap. So like I said, I wasn't surprised. I am not happy that they didn't tell me the truth of the matter. They had to have known! I can't go through the down time now. I wanna fix the issue and move on.

I need to get set up quick, orders are piling up....I got work to do! lol

Thanks for the advice Phillip.
 

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Darell, I can't figure out what is what from the picture but you basically want it like in the diagram. I'm not sure if the included switch will handle the motor current. You could bypass it too but that might be dangerous unless maybe the router is in a table with a switch.
 

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I think the extra wire(s) are a sensing circuit and I don't know how they operate. Here are a couple of options. One is to take the router to a repair facility and get them to bypass it for you. Two is to follow this link to Dwayne Meadows statistics page and review what he suggested to other members. He was an electronics repairman for Sears for many years and where I got the sensing circuit info from I think. Look for posts asking about speed control problems. http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=3289794
 

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If 1 & 2 are the main power you definitely DO NOT want to connect them together. TenGees posted what the final configuration should look like...generically...

Before cutting and connecting wires together, note which brush is connected to the "hot" side of the main power...keep that in mind when reconfiguring...

As was suggested, make sure the internal switch is capable of carrying the current load of the router...if not, use an external switch/controller (assuming the router is in a table)...

There's been several mentions on the forum about failing capacitors in the controller circuit...apparently pretty cheap to replace if you or a friend can do that (don't know your experience level)...you could do a search on "capacitors" on the forum...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry it took so long to get back!

I ended up connecting wires 1 & 2 together, and eliminating the speed controller. I will have to hook up a speed controller and external power switch. I am hoping the internal switch will hold up til I get a project or two done. Gotta have funds to support my habit!

Thanks for the help and advice. I am almost done with my "Ultimate Router Table", I post pics soon!
 

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Darrell check the posts I suggested or search for speed controllers to see if they work with soft start if you didn't bypass it too. I can't remember offhand if the speed controllers (external) are compatible with soft start or just not compatible with internal speed control.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I bypassed the internals totally, and it is doing great now. I have been informed by 2 others that have used the external speed controllers on this model. And they are using them in their shop.
I have not used it very much yet, kind worried about the internal switch load. But wow, this thing is a powerhouse!

Finishing up the cabinet for it, looking forward to using it.
 

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