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Hiya

1370 Views 20 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Jmparker1980
Just giving the good ol new member hello
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welcome to the forums N/A....
Welcome to the forum.
Welcome!
Glad you decided to join the fun. What kind of stuff do you like to make?
I am just getting started...or dont know where to start. Inherited most of my grandfathers wood working tools a while back and i have slowly been working on refurbishing them
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Hi JM and welcome. Do you have a name to substitute for N/A? We like to keep it friendly here.
Hey, Imparker; welcome! Good on ya' for recognizing the value of your Grandpa's tool collection. Were there any planes in the tools?
Pics would be great.
(Also, please fill in something in your bio, over on the top left of your screen. Just click on 'Imparker' and a menu will open up.)
I have added some bio info my phone was being rather unfreindly with doing so. Heres a photo of my table saw. I had to do some repairs to it. It was slightly banged up during transport a few years ago. I still need to get the fence guide squared up a bit better

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The only planes i received where. A stanly spoke shave no 51 and a stanley hand plane no 110
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Welcome to the forum John . If your willing to share, we love pics of projects ;)
As soon as i get some going i will be glad to share
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As soon as i get some going i will be glad to share
lol, I’m one to talk
Some of the older saws like that had decent fences. The criteria is that they must be square every time you lock them down at any position on the rail. If they do that they're good to go. If they won't then eventually you'll want to replace it with an after market one. There are two types of adjustment I'm familiar with. One is where the fence is solidly attached to the clamp and the clamp has buttons that adjust in or out to skew the fence left or right (plus keep the clamp tight to the rail). The other is where the clamp has no adjustment and you loosen the bolts that hold the fence to the clamp and you adjust then re-tighten and test for square. That one usually takes a few tries to get right. You want the fence either dead parallel to the blade or running slightly away (1 or 2 thou). If it angles into the blade you'll get binding of the cut piece against the blade.

BTW, you should make sure the blade is parallel to the miter slots first.
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Yeah i have been trying to figure that fence out on it. I has two knobs on it. I will post some photos of that in a bit when i go back outside today. Im sure i will have to square everything up again on it. The table top seperated from the base during transport. The hardware pulled through the sheet metal on the base and it sounded like and astroid hit the moving truck when it fell. It was a beast to flip it back over once i repaired the base 😆

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From the pick I would guess the top knob is to lock the fence in place. You release the lock slide the fence close to where you want it. Then the bottom knob you can push in and turn to make fine adjustments to the blade. Then lock the fence with the top knob before you make your cut. I think Charles is on point with adjusting the fence parallel to the blade.
From what i have noticed today the top knob does lock it. It seems i will have to square it up with the table any time i move it. it moves around rather sloppy but tightens up rather well so i beleive it will still be usefull. While i was sorting through my stuff and trying to organize everything i found a nice older delta dado set and a craftsman moulding shaper. The moulding shaper looks like it is a very capable tool of eating everything in its path lol.
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G'day John, welcome to the forum.
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