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I have a large front porch on my house and the little woman wanted it screened in. We also needed a door to it to stop our dogs from getting out while they are sitting with us and to keep skunks and other wild critters from coming onto the porch at night. I looked at buying some aluminum extrusion for making screen frames out of and the price was way too high for the amount I need. I have around 36' of openings that are 64" high and I want 3 to 4 separate frames per opening (4 openings) so aluminum extrusions could have been as much as $1000.
I came up with another solution and that is mostly what this post is about. I decided to cut grooves in my wooden frames with a saw blade and then use the same rubber spline material to attach the screen to the frame. I first cut a rabbet in the frame about 1/2" high and about 5/8" wide so that once the screen and spline were in I could cover them with trim pieces. The grooves went in about 1/8" from the corner of the rabbet.
I used a full kerf flat top grind blade and cut grooves about 1/4" deep. I think after this first attempt that the groove should be 5/16" instead. Also I used .130 gauge spline material and I will experiment with that too as I think that a slightly larger spline might work better in this case. Which is the right size of spline varies according to the width of the groove and screen material used. I used aluminum screen instead of the more common plastic type mesh. I'm hoping that the aluminum is more dog paw resistant and also UV resistant than the plastic. I've replaced screen before with the plastic and it is far more forgiving than the aluminum turned out to be.
Initial results are promising. Although I managed a decent job I think it can be improved on. The trim pieces have about a 1/8" lip on the top edge to cover up the edge of the rabbets by the way. The pictures show the door with the grooves and rabbet cut and one section already finished. Another shows the two quick jigs I made on the DP to guide me in drilling the backset for the handles and the hole for the latch. I used the in paper template included with the passage set for a guide. I clamped the backset template onto the face of the door and just before it went through I removed it and clamped a blank piece of ply on the other side to prevent blowout. For the jig to drill the latch I had to add a cleat so that I could clamp that jig over the edge of the door. There is enough clearance available in the standard sized holes that perfection is not required when drilling. The last pic shows the finished door.
I came up with another solution and that is mostly what this post is about. I decided to cut grooves in my wooden frames with a saw blade and then use the same rubber spline material to attach the screen to the frame. I first cut a rabbet in the frame about 1/2" high and about 5/8" wide so that once the screen and spline were in I could cover them with trim pieces. The grooves went in about 1/8" from the corner of the rabbet.
I used a full kerf flat top grind blade and cut grooves about 1/4" deep. I think after this first attempt that the groove should be 5/16" instead. Also I used .130 gauge spline material and I will experiment with that too as I think that a slightly larger spline might work better in this case. Which is the right size of spline varies according to the width of the groove and screen material used. I used aluminum screen instead of the more common plastic type mesh. I'm hoping that the aluminum is more dog paw resistant and also UV resistant than the plastic. I've replaced screen before with the plastic and it is far more forgiving than the aluminum turned out to be.
Initial results are promising. Although I managed a decent job I think it can be improved on. The trim pieces have about a 1/8" lip on the top edge to cover up the edge of the rabbets by the way. The pictures show the door with the grooves and rabbet cut and one section already finished. Another shows the two quick jigs I made on the DP to guide me in drilling the backset for the handles and the hole for the latch. I used the in paper template included with the passage set for a guide. I clamped the backset template onto the face of the door and just before it went through I removed it and clamped a blank piece of ply on the other side to prevent blowout. For the jig to drill the latch I had to add a cleat so that I could clamp that jig over the edge of the door. There is enough clearance available in the standard sized holes that perfection is not required when drilling. The last pic shows the finished door.
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