Home theatre stand build recommendations

Rick,

Looking at the two photos, the construction is completely different between them. In the top photo, the shelves fit into dadoes cut across the face of the corners posts and the shelves fit into these dadoes, projecting out at the end faces. For the second photo, it does indeed look as if the shelves fit into pockets cut into the posts.

You said that you wanted the assembly stained black - did you want "stained black so that the grain still shows" or "stained black so that it looks like a solid part? One way I can see to make the second option would be to make the comer posts as built-up assemblies - joint two strips to make an angle and then glue lengths of square stock into the inside corner, leaving spaces where the shelves would fit. In order to get the same effect as the photo, you would have to go with thick stock, probably 8/4, and then match up the size of the square stock to suit the inside leg of the angle. I think this option would be pretty easy to do as you would make the length of the angle assemblies as needed and then cut the filler blocks as sets of four so that the lengths all match and the shelves sit straight. If you plan ahead, I can see assembly of the unit taking place in layers; glue in the four bottom (floor level) blocks in place, drop in the first shelf, then the next set of blocks, etc., etc. - you would need a bunch of clamps in order to do this though.

If you wanted the grain to show through, it would take careful matching of the pieces - the angled corners could be mitered so that the grain match there is not so critical, but you'd have to be more careful matching the grain of the corner blocks, although the joint would be on the inside face.

For the shelves, if you want the thickness to match the "bulk" of the corner posts, make up your edge banding in the width needed to give the shelf thickness you're looking for, cut rabbets on both edges to suit 1/2" BB plywood, cut top/bottom panels of 1/2" BB plywood to size and then glue up the assembly - you'd have shelves the thickness you're looking for but they would be hollow. For the shelf to hold the amplifier, go with 3/4" BB - and you could sandwich strips between the layers to prevent any sag, kind of a pseudo torsion-box assembly.

I'd have to think on the second option for a while - thinking a template for the router, if used twice on the adjacent edges would give you the square corners. The first cut would give a flat bottom with square corners but a radius to match the cutter in the vertical corners. Flip the post so that the back of the initial pocket is on the bottom and take a second cut - this would only take out the radius in the two corners from the first operation. I think it's doable, but you would have to be real careful about getting the pockets lined up along the length of the posts, but it can be done with the routing template and a series of story sticks locating off the bottom of the corner post. Does that sound like a way to cut those posts?

Thank you for the post Tom . I better kibosh the second idea, to darn hard for a rookie to pull off .
If I did go that route , I was thinking that after seeing what is cut out of a corner post after using a dado , and maybe hogging more material out with a router bit , to build a template and cut the corners of each platform to fit inside accordingly ? Dumb idea I know .

So I'll go back to to the first option as it's acceptable looks wise to me . I also thought with the first option that maybe it would look better if there was a slight radius/contour on the front of the levels . Have them flush at the posts and then the middle would protrude out a bit . Maybe uglier than anything lol.

You have a good point about stain , and I did prefer seeing the grain look . If I painted it , I guess I could fill the gaps and make it look like a solid piece . But preferring the grain look , plus I want to be able to remove the screws from the sides and salvage the individual platforms in case I need to change the heights of the levels by replacing all the side posts . At 100 bucks a pop

One other idea I had . Turn the shelf 90 degrees , then your not looking at the dadoed out area . Your pretty much seeing a shelf recessed back a bit .
A guy could cut in deeper so the levels would be closer to the front, or glue a piece on the front to extend it a bit . Tough call, as you'd see the screw holes or plugs , and I don't want to glue the whole assembly together

I do have a 15" planer , but missed the boat and didn't buy a jointer when I had the chance . If I had a jointer , I could make each level out of several glued pieces .
I think BB should be ok though for the platforms though.

Tom , my speakers are gloss black , and so is my present stereo stand (its metal and glass) .
Ideally the steel look would be best case scenario looks wise . I guess if I primed the wood and put filler in spots and sanded enough , I could spray paint with some plastic coat paint to simulate steel?
Or is there a black wood stain that's glossy?

Bit of an overstatement, Dovetail. Harder than any (local) Pine we can get up here.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test
And there's LOTS of Pine furniture for sale...check out IKEA stuff.

DaninVan said:

Bit of an overstatement, Dovetail. Harder than any (local) Pine we can get up here.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test
And there's LOTS of Pine furniture for sale...check out IKEA stuff.

Click to expand...

You just proved it, 590 janka? And I never said not to make furniture using Pine, I said dont use alder.You just posted a chart with over 250 woods with alder being on the very bottom.

The OP was talking Oak, alder cant even be in the same paragraph, oak is literally 3-5 times harder.

The basis for median hardness is a 1290 on the janka(red oakish), anything less starts to allow a finger nail pressure to dent the wood. One you get under 900 the wood is soft. Alder is a 590, most pine we get a 690(100 is a HUGE difference).

There are about 10 woods softer than alder and over 200 harder? Nope not an overstatement at all.

Take a look at this, alder is so low this chart doesn't even go that low, and most janka charts for woodworker don't go any lower becasue anything less that 650 really is too soft adn the lumber yards don't sell it. If you search the net you will find about 1000 charts and maybe 20% will list lower than 650 and those are informational, they list it down to balsa just for effect. The white pines they show on some charts being 350 janka are so rare you cant get them, most white pines are only marginally softer than Yellow pine, with Alder coming in even softer. Alder is just about the softest wood any of us can go out and purchase readily and the next being the pines are much harder(at least 100 janka), but still very soft in the scheme of things..

Alder is soft and Aspen which is very similar, but much whiter is even softer. , both are closed grain with alder looking closer to a light colored American cherry board. I do tend to get the names mixed up but they are both very soft woods, with alder being the better choice

@RainMan 2.0

As far as finishing the part to look like steel - you are talking a lot of work in prep to get the kind of substrate needed to not show any flaws (as Stick would say, VOE here). We built a lot of cabinets back when everybody wanted white kitchens, way more prep than stain and a lacquer finish - way more. FWW had an article way back, and I think it was updated recently, where the author went through his methods of prepping and finishing painted furniture - do a Google search and see if you can dig it up, very interesting (and daunting).

Think about your original plan to stain the wood black and apply finish, that may be the way to go. And I would also consider black laminate, on the tops of the shelves only, to prevent wear on the surfaces. Laminate the top panel and then size the upper rabbet in the shelf edging so that the laminate surface is flush with the top, assemble and then mask the laminate before applying finish to the edges and bottom surfaces.

Don't know that I'd worry about the relative "softness" of alder, there were a couple of kitchen cabinet mfgrs. (Conestoga was one for example) who used to offer alder as an option. It's not as if a stereo stand sees a lot of wear - just make the gap under the bottom shelf high enough to clear your work boots :wink:

Yes D fir and yellow pine and especially heart pine(as some of it is harder than many hard woods) last a long while, indefinitely if kept inside really.



All the woods are long lasting the janka rating has very little to do with longevity, if it did no one would ever use Teak. Heck its soft as can be yet it last on boat deck with care over 50 years.

Janka doesn't make a wood good or bad or less long lasting, but it will dictate how the item wears over time. If you want that worn look on a piece and you know people are going to toss the keys on it, then use a soft wood, but if you want the piece to look like it did the day you made it then use a much harder wood.

And you are absolutely right, Alder will be fine. You can use any wood you like, but going from Oak to Alder I had to comment that Alder is soft. Doesn't mean he shouldn't use it, I dont use it. If it's going to be black I am not sure why he either doesn't use quarter sawn wenge, which will be black with clear finish or just use MDF and paint it black. MDF will last too, but I dont use that either.