[mtlakejim]

My New Wave Shark RS 1000pro has a 2 1/4" dust port on top of the fence that moves about 12". I can hook up the shop vac to it no problem but I want to setup our DC to take care of the job. I can bring 2" Schedule 40 up thru the tabletop and need ideas on the hose and or some sort of sliding fittings to allow for the movement.

One think that is a real shame is that DC and shop vacuums don't use STANDARD pipe fitting sizes for the hoses and inlets!!!!!

 

[mtlakejim]

Not the best picture (I tried to copy a pic from New Wave site with no luck). The dust collection port is on red portion of machine just behind fence. It is 2 1/4". I have a collar that allows the shop vac hose to fit but I want to hook up my central dust control system which is 4" S&D pipe. I have the fittings (way to many fittings LOL) to go from the 4" S&D down to 2" sch 40 but the issue is finding the right hose and adapters to make the transition from there.........As I said it is absolutely a crime that vacuum system parts are not standardized to standard plumbing sizes!!!!!

Since this picture I have built a box around the lift for DC. Attaching to that is straightforward with a closet flange. I also plan to have a DC tray catch on the left side with detachable hose there for a handheld hose as needed.

Our shop is less than a year old and this is the first table I have built that will be fully dressed out. The sides will be black melamine with cabinet drawers when finished. Electrical will be run to a 70amp breaker box via utility trench. Compressed air and control cables also run in the trench and up to the table. One side of table is the Router and the other side is an extended outfeed for table saw (table saw to left of router with its own 8x6 outfeed/assembly table) and or preliminary assembly table (place to stack parts as they come off of table saw or router. There is another 8x4 assembly table to the right of the router table. Behind me in picture is my partners 8x8 table saw outfeed/assembly table and his router and other machines. His run also has a utility trench with power, air and DC. Our shop is 42' deep and these tables sit in the middle of the floorplan with other machines and workbenches along the walls.

Sorry I got off on the side subject. Just didn't like showing the table not finished without explaining it.

 

[mtlakejim]

I'll also mention that we have both this Shark electric system and another router table with Incra fence and Jessem lift. Both running Bosch 1617. I have to say the Shark has really impressed me so far with the speed at which you can work. Setup is really fast, bit changes are fast, accuracy is very good. Being able to set both the lift and fence digitally (particularly nice for old eyes) and go back and forth with operations repeatedly with just the push of a button is fantastic.

System controls have built in programs for several different functions. You just put in workpiece dimensions and the machine calculates the cuts for you. The fence and lift automatically move between steps like a CNC. Eliminates a whole lot of setup time!!!

The miter fence slides on linear bearings and is super smooth. Much better than the setup on the incra which is really saying something!!

Only thing I don't like is the OEM proprietary touch screen pendant controller. I would like to see a version that would run programming on a laptop like a CNC. That would allow user mods and sharing files for even more versatility.

 

[mtlakejim]

My Freud isn't as sweet as your fence system, but the 2-1/2" vac hose does a remarkable job of handling upper table dust issues. Mine is running off a Y on the end of a 4" collector hose. The other Y connection goes to the router bucket under the table. I've never had an issue moving it with the hose connected to it.

Nothing wrong with Freud!! They make high quality stuff.

Problem with my system is it moves semi automatically like a CNC so you need a hose that will flex easily with it. i just built a bucket under the router yesterday and will be hooking up the 4" S&D pipe to it via a closet flange (IE: what you use for a toliet). That takes care of the bucket underneath. I have the same setup (4" T with 2" coming off of it) and I want to run it up to top of table and then I'm thinking a very flexible hose with a bend in it (for slack) to attach to the fence port which is 2 1/4". The odd ball size of the port is the biggest hassle. I also want to T off of the 2" pipe with another hose so I can have a bucket on the left side table edge. Although I must admit that with a 4' wide table I haven't had a lot of debris reaching the edge like on a smaller table. That might actually be a downside to being that wide. I also have more room in front of the plate than normal but at 6'2" it isn't an issue for me. One upside of an oversize table is room to lay stock. I don't need a side table to hold pieces before or after I am running them.

Mostly I am just looking for ideas on what other folks have done. And specifically good suppliers for pipe and hose that can interface between vacuum system sizes and standard sewer/drain pvc. So far it has been a lot of trial and error.

4" isn't that big of an issue as dryer type hoses work between the S&D and machines. I like using the semi flexible hard wall type stuff like below. Sturdy, looks good and lasts a long time. But it doesn't work for locations where the port is in motion. Or address locations with smaller ports.

And then there is the issue that some manufactures will use one size and others use another. Nothing seems standardized.

 

[mtlakejim]

How about this

Shop-Vac® 8 foot X 2-1/2 inch diameter Hose

or Shop Your Favorite Retailer View Retailers This Shop-Vac® 8 foot X 2-1/2 inch diameter Hose prevents clogging when vacuuming bulky debris. For use with vacuums containing a 2-1/2 inch diameter standard friction or locking inlets.

www.shopvac.com

Thanks for reply and link.

I have an adapter that allows my shop vac hose to fit the Shark fence and I am using the shop vac as a temporary setup. Where I am having trouble is getting the shop vac or some other hose to fit onto a 2" schedule 40 fitting. In other words, compatibility between vacuum fittings and standardized plumbing fittings.

One other thing I would like to do is have a 90 degree right on top of the fence to lay the hose down parallel with the table. So actually, being able to adapt at that point would be ideal.

I'm sure given time, I'll stumble across the solution. Was just hoping maybe someone here had already found it.

 

[mtlakejim]

Well I got it rigged up. As it turns out, we had a hose that would fit the outside of a 2" pvc pipe and a 2" pvc street L. Some tape on the router fence fitting allowed for a snug fit of the L female side. It isn't pretty (fix that latter) but it all works.

 

[mtlakejim]

Everything is in proof of concept stage right now but it is working. Will add blast gates, reroute the 2" pvc a bit and put a clear hose on as I get the parts in. The sides of the table will be enclosed with black melamine and storage added once I get all the utilities run on the table. This is our first table that will get the "full treatment" LOL.

The picture under the table gives you an idea of how the utility trenches work.

 

[mtlakejim]

Non-standard hose ports are so frustrating. When I was setting up my D/C, I ended up with a big box of extra pieces and adapters and still found myself struggling to fit new tools to it.
One suggestion is to contact a 3D printer on Etsy and request a custom hose adapter. It's just a simple ~2" tube of specific ID and OD. I've done this for customers for about $15 which includes shipping.

Sorry should have updated the post (I did start a new thread with pictures of complete setup). Two inch PVC fittings actually worked very well with just a little tape around fitting to snug it up. 2.5" hose fits 2" PVC pipe nearly perfect. Problem solved. Nice thing about this setup is you can take the hose off of the machine to use it as a vacuum for the bits that get away on rest of table and or move it to the side of table for dado catcher. The clear hose allows you to see the action.

FYI, Zoom in on the DRO height gauge and the reading on the pendant, this thing is accurate to within .002" consistently!!

 

[mtlakejim]

I have a big box of nonstandard, supposedly same size, fittings. What works best is sticking with one brand for the most part, but using schedule 20 pipe and aluminum duct tape to seal the leaks. I have done my best to avoid T connections since the dramatically reduce air flow. I go with Y connections or two 45s to ease the change in direction.

I'll take that under consideration. Wouldn't take much to switch from the T on the riser to a Y and that might make it a little easier to square everything up. But it actually works well in current configuration.

Depending on the situation we use either duct tape (I like the rigging tape as it is super sticky) or silicon. We rarely actually glue anything with the exception of hidden joints that will never come apart or are under stress of some kind.

I will be adding automated blast gate setup in the near future as well. Plus, a separate line to the opposite side of the table for vacuum hose. We have a looonnnnngggggg way to go before this shop is finished LOL........

 

[mtlakejim]

Very cool, thanks for the photos and update. I didn't realize 2.5" flex fits 2" PVC, good to know.

I found 4" "sewer pipe" PVC (green pipes) worked well in my shop for the large trunk areas. It's thinner, and lighter, which made mounting it to the ceiling easier. Also, I found a clean and easy solution to mounting pipe to the ceiling was to use these saddle style cable-tie mounts. One screw secures them (using your own proper screws and anchors of course), then pass a zip-tie around the pipe and your done.

Amazon.com: iexcell 100 Pcs Black 9 mm Cable Tie Base Saddle Type Mount Wire Holder : Electronics

Amazon.com: iexcell 100 Pcs Black 9 mm Cable Tie Base Saddle Type Mount Wire Holder : Electronics

www.amazon.com

-Nick

Yep we are using SWD (sewer/waste/drain) which also comes in white for our 4" runs. I only switched to sch 40 when I dropped down to 2" right at the table because I could not easily obtain an adapter in SWD at the time.

We tie off with plumbers strapping. I don't trust zip ties for the long haul as they tend to get brittle and break when older. Our DC on sidewalls comes down out of ceiling and is supported in part by the roof trusses. But the plumbing in middle of shop runs under the slab and pops up in two utility trenches under the tables. It makes for a very clean setup with no tripping hazards once the trenches are covered.