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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am thinking about making a horizontal router table..anybody ever try one. I have an idea, but would like some plans if you have any. Thinking about using a screw lift to adjust it..
Rick
 

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If you browse the forum you will find a couple of designs.
 

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Hi Hickory
Here are just two of them :)

Rusty just made one but I don't know if he had any plans to go by ,I don't think you need any to speak about just fly by the seat of your pants thing.
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/2949-hoizontal-router-table.html

I also just got one it's was made by MLCS or to say sold by them and made over the pond tool,if you need any help just ask and I will get the ruler out. :)
Also if you want the part numbers just ask in that way you could just order the parts you need and then you could pickup the wood.
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/3014-new-toy.html

Just a note*** now that I have one it would be easy to make, the hard part are the uprights (two ea.) but if you use some 1 1/2" x 18" oak with a dado slots + a rabbit or two you would have it done,the 3/8" thick plastic base plate you get from any Ace Hardware and most of the others parts as well,rod coupling nuts,t-slot bolts,knobs,threaded brass insert,threaded rod,lock nuts,etc.

Here's a link, this will show a snapshot of what it looks like when I got it in a box, note it didn't come with a dust vac. port or a power outlet/switch so I added the items that I wanted and need plus a bigger hole in the top for longer bits. (molding bits)

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/horiztabl.html
Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Rusty did a great job making his, i also like the MLCS you have BoB. I live in Canada so i dont think thats available to buy here.
If i Do make one,hwta confuses me is where the router plate fit into. It looks like on the MLCS model it either slides in a metal track or it just fits into it flush, and then the knobs hold it in place.

I was thinking about making a track out of wood for it to slide into. I should have all the material here.

thanks for the help

Hickory
 

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Hickory

Flush is the key and the knobs with a hex bolt slide in a t-slot,but a stantard t-slot would work just fine for this job,I use a key hole bit when I put in a t-slot and it works great for this type of job.
I am a cheap SOB so I don't buy t-slot bolts I take a 5/16" x 3" toggle bolt and grind the head on two sides then cut it down to the size I need in this way it only will cost me .10 cents for a t-slot bolt then I make my own knobs out of scrap hard wood.

Just a NOTE *** the top is 1/16" short at the point where the plastic runs up and down, so it can move free but the two ears on the back are sq.with the top.
If you want a snapshot just ask and I will post one or two.
Bj :)
 

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Hope this helps and it's not a over load of info. :)

All the stock is 3/4" screwed together with phil.M/S with brass inserts.

1ea. Top 16 1/2 " x 24"
1ea. Bottom 18" x 24"
2ea. Sides 6" x 16"
2ea. Ears 4 5/8 x 7 1/4"
2ea. Alum Rails 14 1/2" x 19 3/4"
1ea. Plastic 3/8" x 11 1/2" x 11 7/8"

Plastic Mount plate, 2" hole 8" down from the top on center.


Alum. stock below
http://stores.ebay.com/8020-Inc-Garage-Sale
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...2&ssPageName=STORE:PROMOBOX:NEWLIST#SLIDESHOW

also check out the link below
http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/9782-best-both-worlds.html

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wow you did a great job, every detail is there in the pictures, I copied everyone of them,and now see what i was confused about.
The aluminum track is the key to the whole project. You even showed me the profile. I have a 36 " piece of track here, i could make the large part out of wood, leaving the inset the same thickness as my router plate and then attach the track to it.
Also i will need to use a fine thread 3/8 or larger threaded rod. I think the fine thread will allow you more accurate adjustments. Now its time to gather up all the parts . Thanks again BJ . If i get stuck i will send a message, but everything looks pretty clear now, after the great pictures you posted..
Hickory
 

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You're Welcome Hickory

I think I would use 5/8-18 threaded rod or maybe 5/8-11 and use a rod coupling nut on the top bar with two side holes in the rod nut 10-32 to hold it in place plus jam lock nuts below on the lift plate.
The 5/8 rod nuts would give you room to drill and tap the rod coupling nut on the side unlike a 3/8-24 or 3/8-16 rod nut.
5/8-11 treaded rod you can find anywhere and the nuts as well but 5/8-18 NF threaded maybe a bit harder like the rod nuts.

But you can always just drill a hole the O.D. size of the 3/8 rod nut and then put in a top plug to lock it in , if I recall the O.D. size of a 3/8-16 rod nut would be 9/16" and a center hole for the plug would be 3/8" drop it in and glue it in with some monkey glue then put the plug in on top of that.

Just some thoughts on my end. :)

Please post a snapshot or two after you get done with it, and please ask if you need anything from me....

Just a note*** At one time I had a Horz.setup on the back side of my old router table ( see the hole in top for the bit,in the snapshot below) but I took it off and made a router table for my son with the parts, but it's just one more way to make a Horz. router setup all in one type thing if someone is short on floor space and they have a router table now.

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/show-n-tell/2284-just-some-shop-snapshots-rt8.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/show-n-tell/2277-just-some-shop-snapshots-rt1.jpg

Just in case anyone needs a tip how to... :)
Just a tip how to mount the router and drill the 2" hole in the center of the plastic mount plate.
Once you cut the plastic out to fit the track find the center point,move down to where the hole should be and mark it,now (1/8" hol,e 1st) then drill a 1/4" hole ,then chuck up a 1/4" dowell pin or a 1/4" router bit now plunge the router bit in that hole now trace around the base then remove the plastic base plate from the router and set it on the trace mark you just made now mark the holes for the mounting the router then drill 1/8" holes in the plastic mounting plate now flip it over and couter sink the holes you just drilled then drill the holes out to 3/16".
Now take it to the drill press and drill the 2" hole for the bit hole, be sure and drill it from both sides in that way it will come out clean with no chip outs.

Now when you mount the router the 2" hole will be dead on center along with the bit.


Bj :)
 

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Hickory,

I had seen a picture of the MLCS which is what inspired mine. Now that BJ has posted all the pics and dimensions you've got a pretty good head start.

My table was made allmost entirely from stuff I allready had lying around. For the uprights that support the router I used t-track that was 3/4" wide x 1/2" deep. Then I glued and screwed two pieces of 3/4" MDF together with the inside piece being 3/4" narrower. This made a 1 1/2" thick board with a 3/4" x 3/4" rabbit. Leaving room for the 1/2" t-track and 1/4" polycarbonite baseplate. I used 3/8" threaded rod for the lift because the idea I had for a threaded hole was to use a Tee-Nut and 3/8" was as big as I could come up with.

Let me know if you want some pics and I will try to post some.

Rusty
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Rusty you did a real decent job on the router table.It looks really good for a home made version. I have a couple Pictures of yours that you posted previously.
I also have alot of 3/8 tee nuts here, i have a really heavy screw in type, better than the type you just pound in with a hammer.

What length is your track.? and does it stop near the table. I have a piece of freud track here, I thinks its 31 1/2 . I thought i would cut it in half and use it. Its not like you move the router that much.

Also the plastic knobs on each side that tighten the router in place. Did you use threaded 1/4 inch.

Also i thought about putting a aluimium track in the table , do you think it would be a good option or not something that is needed..

Hickory
 

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Hi Hickory
Just a butt in note *** :)
"Also i thought about putting a aluimium track in the table , do you think it would be a good option or not something that is needed.."

It's needed for a coping sled ,like the one Rusty made but with the handle on the other side or in the center of the sled,But I would make the sled with a teton that would drop in and ride in the slot about 4" away from the back board (plastic) the same ideal as the sled for a table saw to keep the stock sq.to the cut/backboard.
The only hard part about this router table is setting up the bits because you don't/can't use the bearing on the bits to set the cutter up.
Line of site thing, but I did made a jig to help with setting the bit height.
I did try and use Bob & Ricks way with the brass setup bars on top of the router bit but it was not as true as I wanted it to be so I made the jig.
Most of the Vert.panel bits don't have a flat spot to set the brass bars on,so to speak the only one that's about right is the type "A" but it has a 12 deg.upcut on the base end of the bit to cut the panel teton to fit into the frame true.

Just some user notes :) :) :)

Bj :)
 

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Hickory,

The T-track, knobs, and T-bolts are from Rocklers 4' T-track kit. They include the 4' track, 8 knobs, and 8 T-bolts for around $20. They were on sale quite awhile for $10 so I picked up a few. The track runs all the way to the bottom to support the plate. I will probably add T-bolts or wood(to create a pocket) near the bottom of the plate to add stabillity.

I did not add track to the table surface since it was primarily built for raizing panels. Allthough it could be added later as I find more uses for the table.

Rockler T-track kit

www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5209

Rusty
 

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bobj3 said:
Hope this helps and it's not a over load of info. :)

All the stock is 3/4" screwed together with phil.M/S with brass inserts.

1ea. Top 16 1/2 " x 24"
1ea. Bottom 18" x 24"
2ea. Sides 6" x 16"
2ea. Ears 4 5/8 x 7 1/4"
2ea. Alum Rails 14 1/2" x 19 3/4"
1ea. Plastic 3/8" x 11 1/2" x 11 7/8"

Plastic Mount plate, 2" hole 8" down from the top on center.

Bj :)
I may have missed it in one of your posts but where did you find the aluminum rails?

Bruce
 

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Hi Bruce

I didn't make the one I have I got it from MLCS but Rusty made his and he used T-track from Rockler (see his link ) but if I did made one I think I would used Oak or Poplar for the upright rails, the Alum. rail would be real hard to find and I think he used 1/4" plastic for the router base plate unlike the one from MLCS they used 3/8" thick plastic.

Hope this helps and PLEASE post a snapshot if you make one. :)

Bj :)
 

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bobj3 said:
Hi Bruce

I didn't make the one I have I got it from MLCS but Rusty made his and he used T-track from Rockler (see his link ) but if I did made one I think I would used Oak or Poplar for the upright rails, the Alum. rail would be real hard to find and I think he used 1/4" plastic for the router base plate unlike the one from MLCS they used 3/8" thick plastic.

Hope this helps and PLEASE post a snapshot if you make one. :)

Bj :)
Yes, I should've caught that one since I thought it looked familiar. :confused: That's a pretty ridgid extrusion that might be hard to find. But I have a couple of different industrial supply stores bookmarked that might have something like it or close to it. A standard miter track could work fine if attached to a good piece of hardwood. I'm not jumping into this project right away. Pretty busy with too many irons in the fire but it looks so easy to make.

Bruce
 

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Hi Bruce

I did make one a year or two back and had it hooked on the back of a standard router table, on that I used a 1" MDF stock and put in the mounting plate just like a standard router table that's to say I dropped it in flush with the back and put in 4 screws in corners to hold it in the MDF stock then took some 1/2" O.D. hvy.wall Alum. tubing 4ea. and drilled and taped two of them at 1/4-20 thread and drilled two of them out to 1/4" I.D. plus .010 ( the same ideal as wooden clamp threaded pins)(barrel nuts) then drilled four 1/2" in the back and put in a 1/4"" dado slot on the back side of the backboard to hold the threaded rod true and used 1/4-20 threaded rod to raise and lower the back with plastic knobs on the ends of the rods,worked great and I saved alot of money by using the backside of the router table.

It was setup about the same way as if you would mount a mirror on the back of a dresser but the mirror could go and down.

Just one more way of making a Horz.Router Station. :)


Bj :)
 
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