The bandsaw size refers to the throat capacity. That is the distance to the left of the blade viewed while standing at the saw. As for resawing capacity you'll have to check the manufacturers specs for that. They vary greatly. A typical 14" bandsaw will give you in the neighborhood of 6-7" resaw capacity.

 

That makes more sense as far as the measurement goes. Any recommendations on a good band saw with 6-8 inch resaw capacity?

 

Grizzly sells a full line of bandsaws and the pricing can't be beat

Grizzly.com® -- Machine Specifications

A lot of folks swear by their tools. Just select one and click on the specifications tab for all the specs.

The resawing spec is listed under "maximum cutting height"

 

Dave...

Griz, delta, Laguna all make good 14" Bandsaws. Price ranges go from around 900 to 1500 and higher. the Sears craftsman 14" pro isn't a bad unit for the money actually. the Grizz seems to be very very popular and the price point is fair enough. If you plan on doing ALOT of re-sawing, save a few extra bucks up and get yourself a 16", if only for the additional capacity it officer. Nice thing about the bigger saws is that there are more choices in blades. The bigger the saw, the thicker the blade, the thicker the blade, the better the blade can track through the wood. Most (not all) 14" saws will have drift issues. the bigger you go, the less likely you are to have problems. take a look at the guides before you buy. Make sure you can upgrade to premium guides. I can't with my saw and kick myself in the butt everytime to go to resaw.

 

Just to clarify Dave, a bandsaw size is dictated by the size of the wheels, not the size of the throat. The throat is usually an inch or so smaller.

I have only had my Laguna LT14 SUV (Souped Up Version, no kidding ) for about 6 weeks, and I am really impressed. The 3hp motor, combined with a good quality Resaw King blade, cuts through a 13" thick piece of yellow birch quite fast. LINK

 

now that sounds like a sweet setup!!!!!! 3hp? that's a biggie for driving through wide hardwoods.

Hmmmmmmmmm says I.

wonder if the wife wouldn't mind going to porchville for vacation this year?

 

wonder if the wife wouldn't mind going to porchville for vacation this year?

I hear the weather is supposed to be good there this summer. :sarcastic:

 

You can take a 14" saw (Delta, Jet, etc), put a riser and a 105" blade on it, and resaw up to 12" stock.

 

Hi Dave:

Ok, like Jim noted above, the size is stated as the size of the wheels, sort of. I have a 14" bandsaw with the BusyBee label on it. It is a copy of an older Delta bandsaw. The same frame, bearings, everything can hold a 15" wheel. This generic bandsaw comes in a wide variety of configurations and is generally referred to as "the import."

However, the size of the bandsaw wheel has nothing to do with the resaw capability. That is controlled by the distance between the upper blade guides and the table. Natively, mine has a 6" resaw capability. To increase this, the neck can be separated (there is one huge bolt in the neck) and another piece stuck in place, called a riser. I have seen these risers 4" and 6". My import has a 6" riser. This allows me to resaw "about" 11+ inches. All of the 14" & 15" bandsaws have the same rounded look. They're all manufactured by the same company in Taiwan.

Now, you're going to see other bandsaws that have a different angular "look." I think these are copies of the original Doall and may have two, three or four wheels. These may or may not have risers or have risers available. They can be slightly larger than the generic import up to absolutely huge with the appropriate price tags.

Almost everyone sells parts for "the import" and almost everyone sells "the import." Name a tool vendor and you'll find "elephant brand" bandsaws. What's even better is the bearings are common stock and available everywhere and the blades are also readily available. There are very few bandsaw specific parts (comparatively speaking) on "the import" compared to other saws. It is simple and versatile.

I have an absolutely huge, circa 1984, 3/4 HP motor on my saw, but I can easily swap it out for any of the other motors around the shop. My saw has two belts, three speed pullies and an idler driving pully and a standard bolt on motor mount. Everything pretty much generic. There are models without the idler pullies and some even without stepped pullies. It wouldn't take much for me to soup up my bandsaw.

 

Is there a minimum HP rating I should get to resaw?

 

The more the merrier. A minimum of 2hp would be nice, but like Mike says his 1hp does do the trick, you just have to keep the feed rate down. The slower feed rate wears faster on the blades, conversely the more meat they take in one bite, the longer they last.

 

I have a 14" Delta w/riser, 1hp. I've resawn 12" stock using a 1/2" 3tpi Timberwolf blade. It is a bit slow going, but can be done.
Sitting under my work bench is a 2hp Baldor motor I'm considering putting in the saw. May, or may not be doable, but I sure would like to try it.

 

The only criteria is that the motor be 1725 rpm and that the pullies line up. You will need to make sure you have a pully that fits your motor. My pullies are 5/8 shaft, I think. I don't remember at the moment. Does your delta have the idler setup?

As for the HP rating, like Jim says, the more the merrier. 3/4 HP is pretty much a minimum.

Mike: what are the wood hooks for on the front? I think I see some plywood hooks or something.

 

Bandsaws are measured by the size of the wheels with the exception of three and four wheel bandsaws which are measured by the distance from the blade to the neck as they can have any size wheels. As for three wheeled saws never under any circumstances get a saw with wheels of less than 12". Anything smaller than this will guarantee that the blades due to the flexing will fatigue and break in very short order.

 

" I wasn't sure from the angle and it looked like you had a cord or something hanging off it."

My eyes must be going I don't see a cord ...

======

 

Used CNC Router(http://www.routercenter.com/)

I am not sure where you’re getting your info, but good topic. I needs to spend some time learning much more or understanding more. Thanks for wonderful information I was looking for this info for my mission….

 

I've a 16" bandsaw Felder (produced by ACM) with 2,5 hp. Before it I had a 14" bandsaw Esy, it too well made, wheels cast iron, 1 hp. There is so much difference between the new and the old. Felder resaw very well, naturally with a good blade, blade is important however. I've resawed over 10", also hard wood. Hi
Marco

 

Dave

It seems that this topic has created interest in several members and a little cross talk. But here's my two cents concerning re-sawing blades.

A 1/2" blade can be used for re-sawing but tends to flex excessively. A 3/4" blade is better. Depending on the quality of your saw a 1"blade may be either the best solution or may be too big to enable you to tension it properly without over-stressing your saw's frame.

Conversely a 1/2" Blade can't follow tight curves.

To re-saw irregularly shaped stock such as logs you need to make a re-saw sled to keep the stock from rolling.

you are 100% right to gather information before buying tools that may not suit your requirements.

I suggest that you look into the following topics in a band saw textbook or facebook: Band sizing for re-saw, minimum turning radius for various sized blades, Types of blade guides, tensioning your blades, re-saw sled usage for irregular stock, re-saw riser kits.

It's mostly educated common sense but it's good information.

Ben

 

Had to visit my woodworking neighbor this evening and the subject about band saws and how they are measured came up. He is of the school of measureing from the blade to the yoke. He has two saws in his shop. One is old Rockwell that he is restoring, it is marked as a 14" saw and it does meassure exactly 14" from the blade to the yoke. The other one, I don't the brand, he just said that it is a cheapy, is also marked on it as a 14" machine. It also measures exactly 14" from the blade to the yoke.

My new Grizzly saw is advertised as a 17" saw and does have 17" wheelsll on it. The distance from the blade to the yoke is almost an inch less than 17 inches, so, it appears that the issue may be due to when any band saw in question was manufactured, I don't know and I'm not sure that it makes much difference. I did buy my saw thinking that the 17" in the specs were to do with the blade to the yoke and after I got it and meassured that distance and saw that it was not 17" I did scratch my head. Didn't think any more about it until thiss thread got started on the subject. Still didn't until this evening when I visisted my friend.

By the way, is the friend that told me that I might as well throw the fence that csme with the new saw away because all band saw blades drift and I wouldn't be able to use it. That was about the time the Snodgrass video was being talked about on this forum and when I set the saw up according to the directions on the video. The results were amazing and resawing using the fence is so easy and accurate. In fact, as I eluded to earlier on this forum, even with a .125" blade used to resaw a six inch workpiece that was 12 - 14 inches in length the only error from one end to the other was .012" which, in my unlearned opinion is pretty good.

Jerry