Hi,
might I suggest that the easiest would be to use a stave to make a template? It will have a similar curvature to the staves you will work on. You will actually need two templates, one for the tweed and one for the clock body.
The outer template should be long enough so that the router is supported is supported at either end, ie. the template will extend at least half the router base diameter beyond the end of the tweed recess, in both directions. You would use a straight plunging bit, say 1/2”, with a bearing of the same diameter and a locking collar.
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Since the router will follow the curvature of the template stave, the recess for the tweed will also be curved.
It will be a bit tricky to keep the router from tipping at the sides of the recess, since there will only be minimal support from the template - perhaps you can arrange other staves on either side to give you a broader base. The template can
be attached with double-sided tape, or brads into a part of the stave that will be trimmed off later. The workpiece stave will have to be securely clamped in some way, to prevent movement or tilting while routing.
The same technique would apply to the clock recess. Here the Bosch might be a bit oversized, given that you will be working in a concave curvature. Whether the recess is curved or not is immaterial, as the clock case is flat. The only issue is whether you remove enough wood to allow the mechanism to protrude sufficiently on the fronT, to allow the hands to move freely.
If you size the front template for the narrowest stave, different width staves will not matter - you will merely have a different width of wood at the sides of the tweed insert.
Hope this helps.
might I suggest that the easiest would be to use a stave to make a template? It will have a similar curvature to the staves you will work on. You will actually need two templates, one for the tweed and one for the clock body.
The outer template should be long enough so that the router is supported is supported at either end, ie. the template will extend at least half the router base diameter beyond the end of the tweed recess, in both directions. You would use a straight plunging bit, say 1/2”, with a bearing of the same diameter and a locking collar.
Since the router will follow the curvature of the template stave, the recess for the tweed will also be curved.
It will be a bit tricky to keep the router from tipping at the sides of the recess, since there will only be minimal support from the template - perhaps you can arrange other staves on either side to give you a broader base. The template can
be attached with double-sided tape, or brads into a part of the stave that will be trimmed off later. The workpiece stave will have to be securely clamped in some way, to prevent movement or tilting while routing.
The same technique would apply to the clock recess. Here the Bosch might be a bit oversized, given that you will be working in a concave curvature. Whether the recess is curved or not is immaterial, as the clock case is flat. The only issue is whether you remove enough wood to allow the mechanism to protrude sufficiently on the fronT, to allow the hands to move freely.
If you size the front template for the narrowest stave, different width staves will not matter - you will merely have a different width of wood at the sides of the tweed insert.
Hope this helps.
