Hi, forum and routing newbie here...
I am looking into the idea of using scaffold boards for garden fencing, dropped into slotted posts (concrete or galvanised).
Grade B boards work out about less per sq m than a decent fence panel, and then factoring in a 3.6m/12’ span results in a 50% reduction in posts and concrete, and less labour (I’ll be paying someone to erect it), so it becomes quite a cheap system.
But they are square edged, so I thought I’d T&G them.
I’ve got a ½” 1850W router (Elu MOF 177/02) in a table. So a few questions:
Cutting the groove down the centre of the board should be straightforward enough, but for the tongue does anybody know if I’ll find a bit that will cope with 38mm (1½”) stock, or will I have to do 2 passes with a rabetting cutter?
What sort of feed rate should I plan to get, allowing for cooling intervals (the cutter, not me)? Boards are softwood - typically spruce or pine.
And cutter life? I’d have 500-odd metres of boards to do.
I am looking into the idea of using scaffold boards for garden fencing, dropped into slotted posts (concrete or galvanised).
Grade B boards work out about less per sq m than a decent fence panel, and then factoring in a 3.6m/12’ span results in a 50% reduction in posts and concrete, and less labour (I’ll be paying someone to erect it), so it becomes quite a cheap system.
But they are square edged, so I thought I’d T&G them.
I’ve got a ½” 1850W router (Elu MOF 177/02) in a table. So a few questions:
Cutting the groove down the centre of the board should be straightforward enough, but for the tongue does anybody know if I’ll find a bit that will cope with 38mm (1½”) stock, or will I have to do 2 passes with a rabetting cutter?
What sort of feed rate should I plan to get, allowing for cooling intervals (the cutter, not me)? Boards are softwood - typically spruce or pine.
And cutter life? I’d have 500-odd metres of boards to do.