Router Forums banner

How to create a cove/cone shape?

5K views 13 replies 9 participants last post by  demographic  
#1 ·
I saw these speakers online and was instantly blown away by the design and instantly curious how to create a similar shape. for the smaller tweeter receded into a cove.


Image



I can see that the timber has been ripped down the center and joined back together, So perhaps creating the cove shape in 2 parts possibly. If its CNC then it would be simple, Otherwise perhaps its done with a spindle moulder? On the extreme side of things it could be possible to have a custom shape forstner style bit to cut the shape out??? Probably not though.

For now I'm just curious in expanding my knowledge of techniques, as I am a cabinetmaker apprentice in my second year. Im working for a small company that does 90% custom commissioned work using recycled rimu.

The company has a spindle moulder however, can you make custom cutters for them?


Regards
Scott Eyre
 
#2 · (Edited)
It looks to me like a special router bit was used to carve this cone.

It would be a lot of work, but you COULD replicate this by placing the wood onto a drill press. With a whole series of hole saws, you could begin with a small center hole for a pilot bit. Now you use your 6" hole saw and carve down into the surface 1/8". Switch to the 5-7/8 or 5-3/4" hole saw and bore down 3/16". Continue to reduce the hole saw size as you bore down a bit further each time. Do some math to determine the hole saw size, and the depth of each cut to approximate the radius of the cone.

Once you have roughed out a stepped cone, go back in with a piece of sandpaper and smooth out the steps until you achieve your smooth cone with a uniform radius.
 
#4 ·
Scott I really like those speakers . I think those curves would give the tweeters better dispersion as high frequencies are more directional than lower ones .

I wonder if it was done on a cnc router table though ?
 
#5 · (Edited)
I'm wondering if a guy built different diameters of circular jigs to guide the routers base if it would be possible to start at the outside perimeter with your first passes using an angled router bit , then dropping down in height and doing another pass on the inside of the first cut with a smaller circle jig and so on . I could see the depth being the only set back towards the middle .

Just a thought and probably the only way I could do it other than using a circle jig attachment on the router , then doing the outside perimeter on the first cut , then adjusting the circle jig attachment to a smaller diameter and doing another deeper pass to match the angle and so on .
Just not sure what would be done when you get the jig to its smallest diameter as it wouldn't really finish the centre area other than finishing off on a drill press with a hole saw. But I think the router would leave to much in the centre this way to finish off with a hole saw

Thinking of a bit like this . Nice if they had them with longer shanks though

 
#6 ·
Welcome to the forum Scott. You didn't say what the diameter is but I suspect it is too large for a router bit. The first thing I thought of when I saw it was a rosette cutter which would be used in a drill press but also give a rough finish.
 
#9 ·
From the picture, I can't tell what the diameter of the cone is. Suppose you drill a hole with a holesaw; then run the bearing of a cove panel-raising bit around the inside of the hole. You'd have a cone the hole diameter plus about 3 inches.
 
#11 ·
It was probably done on a commercial shaper with a covered bit which is much beefier than a router bit. Many shops have a small machine in house that is used to make custom shaper bits. Sort of like a big key making machine. Know of a furniture shop in SC that has one. Look thru the bits made by someone like Amana. They make a lot of commercial bits but I personally would not use a router bit with that much mass. There are some door insert bits with a similar shape but not that wide. May be made with a CNC or laser. The CNC guys could chime in on it.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Well, I guess no one wanted to go to the trouble of reading my other post so I will repeat it here.

The enclosure design is physically amplifying the sound, turning it into a horn loaded speaker. The shape of the cone is probably proprietary and can not easily be duplicated, and probably copyright protected. A horn loaded speaker has a lot of acoustic properties like controlling dispersion into the room and the volume level relative to power input.

The design is just not for looks and unless you can copy their design EXACTLY, I would say you are wasting your time.

For more information, look under horn loaded speakers, Klipsch, and Altec.
 
#13 · (Edited)
I agree with Brad as they more than likely used spectrum analyzers and computer analysis software to get the response and dispersion just right , but tell you truth I'd sure be tempting to try . If the outcome sucks , it's only your time and some wood.

My Marranzt receiver does time alignment plus parametric equalization which may correct some nuances