Can you not glue on a sheet of melamine or Formica laminate?

 

cheers for the response. a while ago when planning the table i tried sliding some boards across various surfaces and found very shiny surfaces seemed to result in a vacuum sticking effect.

is formica or melamine a popular material that people use here do you know? this would put pay to this fear.

i seem to remember reading here some time ago about a dimpled material people put onto tables.

i would appreciate any more ideas from anybody. cheers.

 

WELCOME ,I have my top with white top laminate the white helps reflect light and makes it easier to see in shop,also plan to route some 3/4" lengths across table to mount t track in this will allow You to use miter slot

 

Formica was my choice.

 

"but what's the best way to finish the table top? mdf sealer, wax, varnish"
****************************
Dumped in a vat of Watco.

 

I think if you were sliding another slippery material over the Formica then perhaps the vacuum issue may be an issue.

 

I am also building a top, at least I am in the planning phase. I will be using Rattle Can epoxy paint to seal the surfaces that are not going to be covered with a Formica laminate.

I have not experienced the Vacuum sticking effect between Wood and a laminate top. Other type of very smooth platic surfaces may induce that effect but I would think wood would be too pourous or have enough surface imperfections that it would not be a factor

 

I sealed the MDF with several coats of boiled linseed oil, then laminated masonite (HD version called eucoboard)using contact cement. I've been using a mixture of BLO/poly/mineral spirits to seal the masonite and help give it some scratch resistance. The result after 2 applications is the smooth face of the masonite is slicker and harder, but I'm going to keep adding, after each application cures, until it no longer soaks in to get the max toughness.

But this is my workbench, it happens to be multitasking as a router table. Not that it helps you now, but I'll let you know how it works out in a couple years.

 

If the vacuum effect is on a piece of plastic or laminate that will not be further finished, just sprinkle some talcum powder on the table and they will glide over each other. Don't do this with wood as the talc will get into the pores and hinder finishing attempts.

 

Hmmm! Lots to think on there - cheers:

1. i like the idea of a white formica or melamine top to maximise the light / visibility and judging by others experience it seems i may have been a bit over-concerned about the vacuum effect;

2. i am curious about this 'Laminex' - can't find much on this that makes sense online. Presumably it's some kind of plastic sheet that is glued on but what are it's properties and can you get it in the UK?

3. lastly, frankly this project has taken more time and money than i hoped for so if there is a simple paint / roller on solution here I am keen to hear about what others have done successfully along these lines. mdf sealer, wax, varnish etc

Thanks again for all the input guys - especially regarding point 3 above - cheers.

E

 

Hi Errol,

"Laminex" is a brand name for HPL [high pressure laminate] available in Australia. very similar to Formica.

I was just assuming that it might be available in UK.

Formica (plastic) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Laminex - Benchtops | Kitchens | Doors | Panels | Splashbacks | Surfaces | Commercial | Bathroom | Laminates | Colours

Formica - For looks that work | Benchtops | Panels | Doors | Wardrobes | Flooring | Surfaces | Commercial | Kitchen | Bathroom | Laminate

 

I have found mdf workes great as it is.. but moisture is the big enemy of mdf so sealing it with a wax or varnish would work well.. 50/50 mix of linseed oil and turpentine makes a great low sheen varnish... and you could always try to seal mdf with watered down pva glue.. leaves a nice plastic sort of sheen..
The one thing about laminex.. is it is so expensive (here in australiaat least) and you have to either find someone selling offcuts or buy a 2400 x 1200 mm sheet for over 300 bucks... which kinda defeats the purpose of trying to save money...
I would try teh low cost sealers or just use the mdf as it is... have a go and see what your table can do.. if you love it you and think it is really a great tool then you will spend more money later on a better table top...
I started out with just plain mdf.. buitl the table mounted a router and played arpund with some different things... loved ther results of what i could do.... and used that table top to make my next one that is topped with melamine coated chipboard....
But for beginning i would recommend just sealing your mdf top and keeping the worktop as clean as you can.. because a lot of scratches come from shavings etc.. A small dustpan and broom helps a lot here..
Have fun and look out for an offcut of kitchen bench or similar to make your next top from..
Cheers

 

Hi Mike, just a quick question.

Where did you buy the 2400 x 1200 mm sheet for over 300 bucks?

Getting a supplier for small quantities is very difficult. I found a 1/2 sheet at a Mr Ply and Wood store for $60.

 

A 4' x 8' sheet of Formica costs $48 here in our big box stores. Applying this to both the top and bottom of your table top adds rigidity and helps seal out moisture. This method is from Shopnotes #1 and I used it on the first table I built as seen in the photo. This surface is very durable and you can make pencil marks on it as reference points. Easy to clean with a quick spray of window cleaner.

 

thanks nitesurfer i think you nailed it.

i already have some mdf sealer so i think i'm gonna just put a couple of coats on the mdf and ply laminated top. then test drive the table for a bit and see if i wanna do any upgrades later.

thanks for all the input guys. cool forum!

Ez

 

Good on ya mate... You can have a lot of fun with a simple set-up and gain some good experience... I reckon once you get the hang of it you'll wanna upgrade...

 

Just a note on how I finiished a drill press work top this weekend. I applied 3-4 coats of a waterborne semi-gloss polyurethane clear with a 4" foam roller.

I've done this with previous work surfaces and it creates the dimpled surface that was referred to in a earlier post. My experience is that the slight texture allows the work piece to move smoothly over the surface.

If you are in a high humidity environment, be sure to coat all sufaces (top, bottom and edges). This will insure no moisture can infiltrate the top.

Best of luck!

 

Hi Craig. Welcome to the forum.