I have this old router. The problem is when it is upside down mounted to a table the motor falls down and the bit isn't near table hole. The ring to adjust height does basically nothing upside down. The manual says nothing about mounting to a table.
jthiel1996, I believe there's a locking screw that squeezes the base onto the motor. It should tell you in the manual (if available). If that's the case, it should probably be closed even when it's right side up and opened before adjusting the height.
This is the router. When it is motor side up as pictured you use the red ring to lower the bit. However when hanging upside down the coller slips all the way. The plastic ring is worthless upside down. There is a thumb screw. I have cranked it tight with pliers. It has to be very tight and slips easy. Nearly impossible to adjust height with any accuracy like this. Instructions say nothing about table. I suspect it's low end and not compatible perhaps.
I found a manual here. The depth adjustment is shown on page six. That wing-nut is supposed to be the depth lock. This set-up would make it a poor choice for use in a table because you'd have to hold the router up and then lock it. That is unless you pull the router and plate out and adjust it vertically, lock it and drop it back in the hole. I had an old Craftsman in a table but it had a rack and pinion depth adjuster and a round knob to lock it. This could all be done, fairly easily, upside down. I'm pretty sure there was people using routers similar to yours in a table though. Maybe they had a flip (lever) lock?
Note that even using that router hand-held, the lock should be secured before using it. Perhaps the threads are damaged or something is obstructing the slit in the base housing causing it to require pliers to lock.
If you can't find the answer, consider buying a Bosch 1617. Pretty much the most popular around these parts. It is a little more powerful, and you can easily find mounting plates pre drilled for it, and you can even buy a separate base you can adjust with a key from above the table.
To me, a router that can work loose and fall out of the table is far to dangerous to use. Having the separate base means if you buy the kit with two bases, you can simply unlatch the lever, and move the router itself into either the plunge or fixed base in the kit without having to fuss with the base in the table. You can still use the Craftsman freehand, of course, but if you follow the forum you will see that after a couple of years, Craftsman parts are rarely available.
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