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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have it in 3 layers
Frame, ava and fairies.
It is small. 100mm x 50mm
Best bit? Procedure?
My thought is ava, fairies, frame, another layer for final frame cutout.
Vgroove for all but final cutout?
I'm getting there,I figured out how to take a picture to vector , adjust and go thru the toolpaths. Tried earlier at .5 mm with vgroove I had (think a 90°} it cleared out most of the letters.
 

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Doug
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If it is all v carving except the profile, and you are going to use the same bit, then I would cut all the V-carves at once and then cut the profile.

That's a little carving. I would see what the results look like with a 60 degree V carve bit, you may have to go to something narrower like a 30 degree bit. Profile it with a 1/4 inch or so end mill
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Doug,
are the whitesell or whatever better for me ? The straight vcarve bits,rather than the normal 1/2 inch bits? Most likely I'll be doing small stuff like this.work space is only 8x11.
 

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Doug
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Some people swear by certain brands of bits, I have bits from several different makers.

I have WhiteSide V bits (1540 and 1504) https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/search?q=v+groove&type=product You may want to look at the 22 degree bit (SC50) if you are going to do really small work. I haven't used it yet, but others I know have created some very intricate pieces with it.

I also enjoy my Centurion V bits (30 degree, 45 degree, and 60 degree) https://www.centuriontools.com/rout...arbide-wood-router-bits.html?pcn=V-Carve Bits

spiral bits are available from anybody, and I have bought expensive ones and cheap ones and had decent results all around
 

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Theo
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I don't do machine CNC, but would not mind giving something like this a shot at it.

I do coffee n chat CNC.
 

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Mike
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V-carve the lettering and the frame detail but for Tinkerbell you will need to profile on the lines with a fine v-bit (maybe 15-20 degree) and 0.02+ deep or you will not be able to tell what she is..
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks mike. Ordered the bits. Tried .2 with 90v, lost the center piece of the O. Found a great YouTube ,its for aspire but he explains process great.slow,doesn't go into "or you can do it this way or this way,or this way". Wish he did more of them but he did only that one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How do you know/decide on depths? My mind doesn't work in "hundredths of a mm".
And, I made the plaque with the contour (ogee like). Can I export it as something that retains that info so I can just load and add a name?
 

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Mike
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Jeff you decide the depths of cut and you also decide if you want to use mm or inches when you do your design. You just need to make sure you use the correct post processor when you save the toolpaths.

You say you made the plaque with a contour (ogee like), did you actually create a 3D model of the plaque? If you did not create a 3D model then you don't have an ogee profile to save. You could create an edge on the plaque using point culling round over bits and 2D toolpaths.

The big problem is we don't know what software you are trying to use so we don't know what you can and can't do.

What software are you using? You said earlier you wanted to use the old ArtCam software you got but then you say you are watching tutorials for Aspire. They operate differently and work with different file types.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi mike,
Yes I did make 3d model. I know I'm swapping back and forth, aspire seems easier to use. I know software is different but the terms and idea is the same for the most part. Problem is learning a new language, metric, and concepts. Went back to inches( all I do is convert constantly back and forth in my mind).
 

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Mike
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Hi mike,
Yes I did make 3d model. I know I'm swapping back and forth, aspire seems easier to use. I know software is different but the terms and idea is the same for the most part. Problem is learning a new language, metric, and concepts. Went back to inches( all I do is convert constantly back and forth in my mind).
Looks like you have two threads going on this. ArtCam does have a larger learning curve that the Vectric softwares in my opinion.

You are probably trying to use the trial version of Aspire so you won't be able to save the design files and cut them. You can save the design files and be able to use them if you buy the software. Vectric does have files that are compatible with the trial versions and you can cut those to make sure your CNC will work with their software. The files I sent you for testing were designed and saved using the grbl pp in VCarve Pro 9.5
 

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Mike
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Jeff you decide the depths of cut and you also decide if you want to use mm or inches when you do your design. You just
I know but why .02 and not .2 ?
The depth depends on what you want to do with the toolpath. If you have a 0.50 thick board and you want to cut out a part you have to go at least 0.50 deep, you can go deeper if you want to and still cut it out but you can't cut it out if you cut 0.25 deep. If you want to make a pocket then you decide how deep it needs to be, there is no set rule that all pockets have to be 0.125 deep or any set depth.

If you are v carving letters and they look like the would look better slightly larger then add a slight start depth so they carve nicer.

It is all your choice to meet the needs of each individual toolpath.
 

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Mike
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Actually different problems in somewhat same model. I meant the depth of carves,like the Tinkerbell. Just going to need to test carve stuff to see how it works
Set it all up in your project and see what it looks like when it is previewed. If it looks bad try different things like a different bit type, different depth of cut, might need new vectors to get what you want but do it in the software and see what it looks like.
 
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