I think you're on the right path with the band saw and sander. Do you have an oscillating spindle sander? That would be my suggestion for finishing to the outline.
+1.... I make patterns of anything worth anything.. 1/8-1/4 masonite is cheap or wuz...if you make and use a patter you can easily repeat it...Depends how meticulous you want to be and if you'd ever make another one of these. For me, as a hobbyist, something with complex curves interspersed with straight lines would be a real challenge to get acceptably smooth so I'd do it the more time consuming way. I'd make an MDF template. I'd work with it until I was satisfied, backfilling nicks and bumps with Bondo. If I really screwed it up, I can always start over. MDF is cheap. Then I'd go to the project piece, cut close to the line with a band saw and a thin blade. I'd finish it with the template double sided taped to the reverse side of the plywood project piece. I'd do it on the back with multiple small pieces of tape so that removing the template wouldn't pull off any of the face ply but, if it does, it'll be on the back and not the face. Then I'd use a router with a pattern bit. A lot more work but, for me, knowing my skill level, or, more accurately my preponderance for an "uh oh", it would work better on a complex piece.
Yes do as you stated.I’m making a wooden clock as a hobby and the attached indicates part of the clock’s face. The plans I bought came in 8.5”x11” sheets in full scale and I had to cut/glue them together to form the parts. What you see in the picture is about 14”x12” wide which I will glue to 1/2” Baltic birch ply for the final cut.
None of the curves you see are proper circles and that’s the problem. If they were proper circles I would use my router on a jig I have which cut circles up to 36” OD but on curves how can I do the cut?
I could use my band saw for the rough cut and then use my sander to finish but I don’t think it will be perfect.
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