Hello, new to the forum(today). Yesterday(Sat Aug 01 2009) I was making arched raised panel doors and smoked my router. It was installed in a bench-dog cast iron table attached to my Unisaw. Never had a problem until now, but it was my first go at arched doors, I was using red oak. Due to the unique table top, I had installed a probably too-smal small cutom box underneath with an attachment for my 4" DC system, and an adjustable air inlet to ensure airflow around the router. Normally, I use a second attachment on the fence, but due to the panel arch, I was free handing the panels with a big scary panel raiser. First use of that as well, I was paying 100% attention to the BSPR, and not much on everything else. The DC never complained or seemed to have changed pitch(the routing made incredible noise, however). I made one pass with all 16 doors using a 1" bearing, and was half way though again with a 5/8" bearing, to finish with the 1/2" eventually. The router abrupty stopped in mid cut. Odd, I thought, and looked at the switch, then breaker panel, eventually opening the access panel in the router box. It was completely packed solid with wood chips. Somehow, the air outlet got blocked(wide open throat at the bit coupled with no fence suction maybe?) apparently directed a whole lot more chips going into the box. Additionally, the cord in the box was partially obstructing the air outlet, and should have been secured better, and the DC was full, probably dropping air pressure. Anyway, I installed my PC690, and finished the doors, but now I have a plunge and fixed base and no Bosch motor. Can these be re-wired? Can I buy just the motor body? I should install a bigger 15 amp router if I'm going to keep doing these types of projects, but they'll burn up just as quick if insulated in wood chips that way. Would be nice to hace a reset switch for overheating. I didn't smell anything until the DC was turned off, then it was awful. If nothing else, this is to inform the community to peridically check things you normally might not be concerned with when performing new or unusual tasks. A larger box to contain the router may have helped, but I should have taken more breaks, and been less complacent about DC. Safety was and is paramount, but I killed a really nice router for no good reason.
ahkeller
Hi Woody:
Welcome to the forums!
If this my situation, I would consult a Bosch service centre to have an estimate at the cost to repair the unit. Also, find out from Bosch how much to buy a new motor unit. Once I had those two prices, I would decide whether to repair, replace or junk the Bosch pieces (motor unit and bases.)
Service Center Locator: http://boschtools.com/Service/ServiceCenterLocator/Pages/default.aspx
Bosch Parts & Service Online: https://www.boschtoolsservice.com/
Cassandra
Another happy 1617EVSPK owner
Welcome to the forums!
If this my situation, I would consult a Bosch service centre to have an estimate at the cost to repair the unit. Also, find out from Bosch how much to buy a new motor unit. Once I had those two prices, I would decide whether to repair, replace or junk the Bosch pieces (motor unit and bases.)
Service Center Locator: http://boschtools.com/Service/ServiceCenterLocator/Pages/default.aspx
Bosch Parts & Service Online: https://www.boschtoolsservice.com/
Cassandra
Another happy 1617EVSPK owner
Hi Woody:
On the other issue: There are points to consider when designing an adapter for the DC system.
The air flow through the router motor unit should be from a "dust-free" environment. This means that the dust-laden air from the table should NOT pass into the router motor unit.
The air flow should through the motor unit in the direction that the manufacturer intended. Trying to push air the other way defeats the protection built into the internal workings of the motor unit.
The air flow through the motor unit should NOT be restricted in any way. Forcing air into the motor unit's inlets is helpful, when done with moderation.
HTH,
Cassandra
On the other issue: There are points to consider when designing an adapter for the DC system.
The air flow through the router motor unit should be from a "dust-free" environment. This means that the dust-laden air from the table should NOT pass into the router motor unit.
The air flow should through the motor unit in the direction that the manufacturer intended. Trying to push air the other way defeats the protection built into the internal workings of the motor unit.
The air flow through the motor unit should NOT be restricted in any way. Forcing air into the motor unit's inlets is helpful, when done with moderation.
HTH,
Cassandra
Woody, are you saying the router's internal fan was unable to keep the chips from falling down into the air outlet? Is the router fan's air intake able to suck all the clean air it needs?
Mine runs a little cooler since I provided a duct for intake of clean air.
It's too bad Bosch didn't use a thermal switch or a thermal fuse. Brush type motors heat up easily.
Mine runs a little cooler since I provided a duct for intake of clean air.
It's too bad Bosch didn't use a thermal switch or a thermal fuse. Brush type motors heat up easily.
Hello woody
Welcome to the forum. I wish that i could tell you, Yes have it rewired, It is usually to expensive to do it. If you like that router well, you may want to buy a new one, or a re manufactured one. I have had very good luck with re manufactured. I am told that many times, people will return them, or they are shipped back from a store as open box. What ever you do, i know that you will have some information that will protect the tools, Enjoy the forum, and please add where you are from on your profile. Thank you.
Welcome to the forum. I wish that i could tell you, Yes have it rewired, It is usually to expensive to do it. If you like that router well, you may want to buy a new one, or a re manufactured one. I have had very good luck with re manufactured. I am told that many times, people will return them, or they are shipped back from a store as open box. What ever you do, i know that you will have some information that will protect the tools, Enjoy the forum, and please add where you are from on your profile. Thank you.
I'm curious, have you revisited the router to see if it would start once it cooled? Blow the sawdust out of it and give it a shot... maybe you'll get lucky and there will be a thermal overload built into the router.
The first step is to remove all the sawdust from the router. If it is really loaded this may require dis assembly. Dust can clog the router, block the brushes from making contact. After all the debris is removed you will be able to see if there is melt down damage. There is a good chance you can clean the router and re assemble it and it will work. If not then a rebuild is in order. One of my 1617 motors was a rebuild and it has been problem free. Since you mounted the router in the table how often have you removed it to clean it? As far as the dust collection box it should have 3 sides to channel the dust to the collection hose as close to the table as possible. This will draw the dust away from the motor better than any other situation and should your collector stop working because of a full bag you will have instant dust on the floor to show you.
At any rate do not "junk" the router bases. If you replace your router let me know and I (or someone) will buy the bases from you.
At any rate do not "junk" the router bases. If you replace your router let me know and I (or someone) will buy the bases from you.
I think they should make routers dedicated to table work. The fan modified to draw at a higher rate and the infeed opening should be capped and supplied with a feed line that can be run outside the table or with a blower mounted on the exterior of the table.
One habit I got into after smoking my 1st 690 on composite decking is to regularly check the infeed grate for debris. During extended routing projects I open up and vac the router for dust, (I do a lot of fir molding for some old houses). Chips can block the grate but dust gets in the windings.
Anyone ever take theirs apart once a yr. for cleaning? Would that void the warranty?
One habit I got into after smoking my 1st 690 on composite decking is to regularly check the infeed grate for debris. During extended routing projects I open up and vac the router for dust, (I do a lot of fir molding for some old houses). Chips can block the grate but dust gets in the windings.
Anyone ever take theirs apart once a yr. for cleaning? Would that void the warranty?
Well, lots of good info here. I did blow the motor out with my compressor, it was like a blow dryer for a few minutes. The fan on the motor was working fine, just the box surrounding it was totally packed full of chips. Haven't had time to check the the brushes, but it stunk to hell of burnt insullation when I got it out of the box. Pretty sure I cooked it good. Had reserve AT followed up by another drill this weekend, but I'll look into it this weekend. Maybe turn it in for a refurbished? Or just buy a refurbished and junk the original? If I have to buy new, and have to get another kit, I'll let the fixed/plunge parts go to someone for shipping. Can I get just the motor body? I hate to trash good stuff. Thanks for the feedback... Aaron
Check those brushes out 1st.
They do stink severely when you burn them up. They can get REALLY hot and begin to turn to dust. When they do it throws out a horrid odor. Then after they dust off so far they cant make connection with the arbor to send a charge through to turn it. It would probably be just as expensive to purchase a new motor versus buying the router again. Brush sets are only around $8 - $10.00. They are directly under the top cap on the router. Really easy to get to.
They do stink severely when you burn them up. They can get REALLY hot and begin to turn to dust. When they do it throws out a horrid odor. Then after they dust off so far they cant make connection with the arbor to send a charge through to turn it. It would probably be just as expensive to purchase a new motor versus buying the router again. Brush sets are only around $8 - $10.00. They are directly under the top cap on the router. Really easy to get to.
What has been happening with the router. What have you found out? I am curious and would like to help out others with the information that i can find.
You can buy a replacement motor by itself so that is the smart way to go. (I did so I don't have to swap bases)
If you didn't smell smoke, chances are real good that you did not burn the wiring - burned motor wiring/windings create smoke and a very obnoxious odor. If you have the EVS model, you may have burned out the speed control/soft start module or perhaps the switch. Checking the parts diagram for the 1617, which I also have, I see no thermal overload protector - too bad, that would be simple. I would suggest you visit (or call) your nearest Bosch Service Center, explain the problem to them and either deliver or send the router to them for an estimate. The variable speed/soft start module costs about $27 for a replacement (ToolsPlus)
I also agree with a previous poster who suggested you remove the motor housing cover (two screws) and blow out the interior, particularly around the switch. It may or may not help but it is certainly worth a try.
Jim
I also agree with a previous poster who suggested you remove the motor housing cover (two screws) and blow out the interior, particularly around the switch. It may or may not help but it is certainly worth a try.
Jim
The Bosch 1617 (and the Craftsman - Made by Bosch), has a very powerful cooling fan that sucks air directly into the router - and dust, dirt etc along with it. I am with the earlier suggestion to get the air supply from OUTSIDE the cabinet. There is a very strong possibly that the router maynot be damaged at all. It would be worth it to disassemle the router (unplugged of course) and clean it up as muchas possible. If you can see the armature and it does not look burned, or the windings melter, look to see where the brushes contact the whatever you call it and see if that section is burned. (Most likely). With some emery cloth you may be able to clean that up and you might be back in business.
A question about voiding a warranty - if the router is more than a year old -What Warranty? If less than a year old - carefully disassemble, reassemble, repair and make no modifications you should be ok. After all - Bosch switch replacement can be made by the user - as suggested by BOSCH. Just a thought.
A question about voiding a warranty - if the router is more than a year old -What Warranty? If less than a year old - carefully disassemble, reassemble, repair and make no modifications you should be ok. After all - Bosch switch replacement can be made by the user - as suggested by BOSCH. Just a thought.
I should have checked this before now. Hope someone checks back on this. It got worse. I stuck in my PC690 and got through that run of doors, But the next set(there were 27 doors in all, 16 for the back side of the kitchen, 11 for the front/side) I got part way through them, with the 1" bearing, then smoked the PC690. A little different, the router slowed way down, then just died, unlike the abrupt demise of the Bosch. It then smelled like hell again when I turned off the dust collector. Due to the fact that there is limited high end retailers near, I ended up buying a PC890 to finish the job. Still an under-powered 12 amp router. Now I have fixed and plunge bases for the original Bosch and a PC690 with two burned up motors. I've done some research, not worth the money or time to fix, unless I want to experiment with brushes and switches. (shakes head ruefully). I think some of you are on to something with the airflow issue. Why would they design so many different under cabinet table tops when the airflow is then sucking dust and chips directly into the motor? Normally, I use close clearance inlets and a fence dust collector adapter, as well as the cabinet dust collector, but the arched raised panels don't allow for that combination. The job is completed, but now that I've become pretty darn good at arched panels and the Big Scary Panel Bit, I'd like to replace the doors on some earlier projects. Replacing a router every project is rediculous, though. So, my question to the group is.... What am I doing wrong? I dont see how I can provide fresh air only to the motor, when the inlets are right under the bit. The Bench Dog cast iron wing extension and router lift are just absolutely fantastic, but running a 3 1/2 inch bit seems to over power these smaller routers. So is it the power issue? I plan to buy the big 15 amp PC router eventually, but I'm scared I might burn it up too, as well as the 12 amp PC 890 I just bought. Believe it or not, I also own a 240v shaper, but it's never given me good results, so I went with the Bench Dog solution, which was exemplory, until I had to make those doggone raised panels. The shaper has always scared me, the fence sucks, and it was too slow (10k RPM max) and chipped oak like a fiend. BUT I never tried the BSPB with it. Is that the solution maybe? Anyway, long post. I now have TWO complete hard case fixed base and plunge base router kits with burned up routers. I believe the routers themselves are beyond repair. There was some interest earlier in someone acquiring them. I'll check my profile and make sure my email is available. SemperFi, Aaron
You may want to check out E-bay, They can have good prices, especially when the router was upgraded, or a new model is out.
I'm interested in the bosch bases, and any other equipment regarding them you feel like selling. My email address is: Quagmire8@juno.com. I check that more frequently than the posts here. Let me know if you want to sell, and maybe we can work something out.
Regards,
Michael
Regards,
Michael
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
