Router Forums banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,603 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was sawing a 2' by 4' MDF panel in half today and as I fed it through the the piece against the fence was wanting to move away from the fence. I was feeding it through with my right hand putting pressure down and to the right so it would stay against the fence. This is a new TS and I tuned it up to the best of my ability. This isn't the first time this has happened. I am thinking it's something simple. It could be the way I am feeding it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,426 Posts
Don can you describe how you set it up, which table saw and fence you have ?
Did you make sure the blade is parallel to the miter slot first , then making sure the fence has a little run out to the right at the back of the fence with the miter slot , say .001" - .0004" .
If so I can't see where there would be any issues.

My first concern is your fence may not be a good enough quality to lock down with the same run out all the time , but I'm guessing as I don't know what your using
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,771 Posts
That seems to be problematic for me because the width is wider, yet the piece against the fence is shorter.

I do the same. Push with the right hand and sorta use my left as a guide. I do use a Bench Dog Push Bloc in my right hand to help stabilize the workpiece.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,468 Posts
I'm having a hard time seeing anyone trying to cross cut a sheet of mdf using one hand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,459 Posts
Hey, Don; for awhile I was having a problem with the rear vertical fin supporting the blade guard being a tich out of perfect alignment with the sawblade. It was diverting the path of larger panels away from the fence.
No longer an issue as I replaced the original Delta with a new Shark. Using a thin kerf blade would aggravate that problem as the kerf is even less forgiving. The fin or riving knife has to be perfectly in alignment to not cause any drag.
For some reason it wasn't as much of a problem ripping lumber as panels(?).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,237 Posts
Depending on the saw type, the blade could be slightly off. When tuning the saw, you start with making sure the blade is parallel to the miter slots. If not precisely aligned, you have to adjust that first. Once done (often by loosening 3 of the 4 bolts that hold the table in place), you can adjust the fence to the spec Dan suggested. Lots of videos on this on Youtube. And many saw instruction books show you where the bolts are.

Some inexpensive stock fences do not hold alignment all that well. Sometimes the bolts that adjust the angle are easily loosened, sometimes its a who knows. You should make sure that you lock the fence down to make the miter-to-fence measurement. On my saws, locking the fence down changes the angle several thousandths.

If you don't have one yet, get a Wixey digital angle gauge, which is about $ 30. Not likely the culprit but its much easier to get a perfect blade angle with a Wixey.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,369 Posts
I was thinking along the same lines as Dan and Tom.

(Assuming that feed technique is sound and stable...)
- If the blade is parallel with the right miter slot?
- If the fence is parallel with the right miter slot?
- If the splitter or riving knife is inline with the blade?
- If the rip fence has a lock both front and rear?
- If not, then does the rip fence flex/deflect under load, because it is not sturdy enough?

The only factor after those questions would be is if the blade teeth are worn/dull...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,603 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I have a Jet TS about 6 weeks old and I bought it new. "See link below" It has a thin kerf blade that I bought from Infinity and I put it on the saw when it was new. I took the riving knife off because it was hitting when I fed a piece through. Maybe that is because I an using a thin kirf blade. The riving knife is 3mm thick. This is my first saw with a riving knife. I am thinking about going back to a regular blade as I like the riving knife. The 3/4" MDF was 2x4 foot and I cut it to make two 2x2 foot pieces.

Jet 10" Left Tilt Table Saw w 30" Proshop Fence 708494K New | eBay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Being that you were only running 2 feet through the saw this suggestion is most likely not an issue but since I don't know how deep the Jet saw table is I will mention it anyway: If you have an outfeed roller that is not perfectly perpendicular to the blade/fence sometimes that can pull the wood away in directions in which you don't want it to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
I had a Craftsman saw and the wood would pull away from the fence. It was a nearly new saw at the time. I would repeatable go through the setup and everything would be right. Obviously, not. I found that one of the rails was bent. It would work correctly for ripping anything less than say 15 inches but would pull away for anything wider. I bought a new aftermarket fence and rails and everything worked great after that. Try putting a straight edge up against your fence rails.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,603 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Thanks John I will check that this mourning. I did find that the fence was out of square about 3/64 and that was about the how much the panel was moving away from the fence. I hope that is all there is to fixing it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
655 Posts
Your Fence Is Probably Out.

1. Your fence is not parallel to the saw blade.
2. Your saw blade might be warped.
3. Riving knife is nit set right.

First, check blade for flatness and make sure you're not over tightening on the arbor. Doesn't need to be ape tight. If backup washer is a cup you could easily dish the blade.

Next check that the fence is parallel to the blade. If you plan on using anything in the miter groove, you should first make the blade parallel to the groove and then the fence parallel to the blade. Some say to make the fence parallel to the groove but that just doubles your error.

The riving knife must be parallel to the blade and directly behind it. Adjust per manufacturer instructions. If the riving knife is bent, or not parallel, it could cause wood to pull away from the fence.

Most likely, blade is warped, or fence is not aligned. Hope this helps.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top