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Why not...
work w/ just the base's plastic sub-plate, tape it down, then transfer punch the required new holes and bore new ones..
careful positioning is important ya know...
when you mount the base onto the table, leave the sub-base off...
remember not to orientate the sub-base in mirror image...
it's easy to do...
you should be looking at the bottom od the base plate as it lies on top of the table...
 

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Sears put out some stamped metal tables and they were router specific as the metal was countersunk so the mounting screws would be flush. Your router might fit one of those type tables as they were likely made by Ryobi and your model router was also made by Ryobi (315. serial numbers). If this one is a composite top then you can do what Stick said. You'll need a countersink drill bit to countersink the holes you drill so that they are flush or below the top surface.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok I got the router to fit (had to purchase new screws) when lower/raise the router but it seems not able to raise it any higher,

does the bit need to go all the way in, if it stay out a little maybe the bit will be higher. or do I need to replace the router with a different model ( the model I have is not on the list of models that will fit.
 

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Hi Slim and welcome. I’m not sure if the 315 model had metric screws but that model prefix means made by Ryobi so it’s a good chance. I don’t know about the US Home Depot stores but the ones in Canada sell metric screws. Take one of your old ones with you to match size and thread pitch.
 

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Lowes carries metric..
as well as Ace...
 
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