Hi Jerry:
I will check out all the programs you mentioned to see how well it fit my needs.
Exactly. I can make all the recommendations but it boils down to the suitability for your needs.
I especially liked the two thumbs up for WordPerfect. While i haven't used a Mac in ten years, I did my Masters thesis in WP. I hadn't considered it as a design program but, with your recomendations, I think I would feel very comfortable using it.
Ron having our blessing as a typesetter gives me great confidence that WP will meet my needs. As I mentioned I have some experience with Quark and Photoshop so I hope to use them as well. I don't have great drawing skills so I'm not sure if I will get Illustrator. Because most signs are two dimensional I think a straight forward layout program will best meet my needs.
Quark and Photoshop are very useful tools. I've always been involved in publishing government reports. The covers were done by very experienced graphics artists and the guts were done by a 24hr crew that kept going until the job was done. It was remarkable how simple typesetting was but how incredibly difficult the graphics arts were.
In your example, your biggest headache is going to be upsizing. You can't take a 15 point font and blow it up to 6" type. Everything changes, the weights, the spacing etc.
I would suggest that you get a 24" dot matrix printer (garage sales is best. You may have to go through a few to find one that actually works properly) that your program will support. WordPerfect will adjust inter-character spacing using "kerning" but you won't be able to tell the results until you do a full sized print.
Take a look at the logo below. It took hours of staring at that just to figure out that the letter "C" was slightly too heavy. I haven't taken a close look at the sign but if you give it to a graphics artist, I'm sure he'll have some comments.
One important consideration is the ability of any program to produce PDF output files. Because I have only standard size printers, I need to send my larger projects to Kinkos for printing.
Pound around the garage sales for a few saturdays and you'll come across what you need. I'd use a 24" dot matrix or better still, a larger plotter.
This raises a side question that you guys might answer.
How do you transfer your designs to the workpiece?
I don't work in signs but there are fellows here that do. I would think, print out your design and glue it to the workpiece. When you're done, sand off the paper and glue.
You've also got to decide if you're going to have the design sit proud of the background or if you're going to carve into the background. If you're going to sit proud of the background, you'll need skis. If you're going to carve into the background, you'll want to paint before you remove the paper so the sanding operation will give you a clean finished look. I would suggest the "V"drum sander for that operation. However, all of this is subject to comment and approval from the sign making people.
Up to this point I have been carefully scaling my designs to fit my monitor on my pc. I then take the output to Kinkos and enlarge them to actual size on their larger format printers. From doing this several times, I have discovered that Printer toner in the copiers makes an excellent transfer ink for heat transfers.
Firstly, I would suggest a multihead configuration. Add realestate by adding monitors, not bigger monitors. I use three heads, all LCD. That means that you can now blow up the details to really refine them.
I would also suggest that you e-mail your graphics to Kinkos. If they're as savvy as Staples is here, they accept e-mail submissions. You can develop a relationship with one of their "techs" who will give you feedback on the output before you go to pick it up. That way you can tweak it before going to pick it up. Don't expect a graphics artist's expertise but some of them are pretty good.
Here's my technique. I'd like to hear your thoughts and suggestions.
I reverse print my original design as a mirror image on paper using my home printer. I then head over to Kinkos to make the correct sized copies. Back in my shop, I tape the design to a prepared workpiece. Then I use the heat transfer tool that came with my standard wood burning set to heat up and transfer the toner design onto my work.
I'm a master at picky but you're way beyond me. I'd just glue the pattern to the workpiece and cut right through it.
I have found this method to work pretty well. The only drawbacks are the need to make a trip to Kinkos everytime I make a new design and the time it takes to heat transfer the design to my workpiece. If there are quicker and easier transfer methods ... I'm all ears.
Here's a photo (see attachment) of a design transferred to a piece of white oak.
As above, try glue. Even a thin layer of white glue will work.
Returning to my Macintosh...
Unfortunately, I've learned since I posted my note that my new Mac is perhaps not so new. It is an early G4 which still runs OS 9.1. SO my first task is to get the OS updated to a more current version. The specs on the system say its compatible up to 10.4.11.
A computer never dies. The applications get bigger and slower that requires bigger and faster toys but so long as the original application doesn't change, the computer will run it for centuries. My biggest headache is operating systems. I have to use Windoz because of the install base but I'm constantly trying to switch over to Linux.
I hope that will be adequate for my needs.
I plan to use it only to create designs and get on the internet. I hope if I assemble all the correct software fonts and clip art that it will service me for many years.
Don't screw up your production machine with an internet connection. Use another system as an intermediary, especially if you're using Windoz. Not so bad on the Mac other than you'll plug up your production machine with junk.
Since I've begun creating signs, I have found a creative outlet that is very satisfying. Up to this point I have only carved signs for family and friends. With each project my confidence and experience grows and I am anxious to take on larger and more ambitious projects. If I could find a paying project that would be nice too.
You are beginning to learn. There is a rule that says every journeyman pays with 10,000 hours of apprenticeship. Never stop experimenting or learning.
Guys thanks again for your help. While I am new to this forum. I can already tell there is allot of experience here.
Now, I'm a junior here. There are others that will give you years of experience but the one thing they can't give is your experience. Return the favour as you learn, so we can all learn, and, yes, comment.