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I'm Cutting Corners

2149 Views 12 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  JOAT
11
Hi there fraternity

Just a short one. I think.

As you know or don’t know I have been attempting to hospitalise myself learning the art of turning. And up to now it’s fair to middling, with the emphasis on middling.

Now yesterday I have a favourite awl thing come canvas stitching tool which I utilise quite a lot and the handle gave up the ghost. I can’t understand as I only hit it with my East Wing.

So, decided to turn my attention to spindle turning in order to produce a handle like no other. Couldn’t find a piece of 2x2 oak so glued 3 bits together.

Now for you out there that start with a square piece of wood it’s quite a rattling bone numbing affair to start with 90-degree angles, and I feel I’m trying to batter the wood into submission in order to get it roundish.

I did the usual research and found many turners tilt their band saw to 45 and take off the corners or just go for it free hand. Tilting my table isn’t that user friendly and, in my case, free hand usually means no hand, so decided to make a jig thing.

Won’t go into the step by step as it’s fairly self-explanatory from the photos and have posted this just in case anyone gets something from it or can improve on the design.

Took a cutting of 18mm, 3/4inch ply and bolted an old mitre Gauge track to the underside, then ran it through the bandsaw, this way the cut has to be perfectly parallel to the mitre track.

The bit I cut off acts as the carrier. I just set my table saw blade to 45 at 14mm high and ran it through, turned it around and same cut, resulting in a 90-degree slot set vertically.

I then routered in two slots to allow the carriage to slide back and forth giving me the freedom to cut as much or little from the corner.

The bottom section just has two threaded inserts to accommodate the spindle handles.

Now I know it’s crude and isn’t a masterpiece of precision engineering, but it was never designed to be. It’s jig to hold a lump of wood approximately in position to allow me to cut the corners off.

Now before I sign off some of the astute amount you might be asking, what happens when you are down to your last cut and there is no opposite corner to fit into the jig.

On the second last cut you don’t saw to the end, leave it attached by a few mm’s, that way it still sits in the jig for your last cut. Then simply peel off the still attached corner.

Is it fit for the job, yes, it works a treat? Am I fit for the job, no I usually need treatment?

Colin
Scotland

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Well done Colin, right up to the last shot I assumed that you didn't have a lathe! Why didn't you just pop it into the lathe and with a decent size gouge turn it down to size in next to no time?

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Colin,

Me thinks you need a smaller hammer. That aside, this is as good a solution as any.
Nice jig, Colin...you'll be able to use it on a variety of wood sizes, including round wood you want to make square.

...one thing though...you can cut all the way through on the next to last piece. By then you will have a flat side to sit on the table and freehand or use the fence as a guide...
5
Just an update on the jig.

Took the oak piece I band sawed the corners off and I turned down my first handle for my awl thing.

As you can see, I used my newly sharpened chisels and turned the front to accept a copper ferrule which being a plumber is a cutting of 22mm 3/4inch copper supply pipe which i coated with epoxy and forced home on my vice.

I also fitted a steel plate on the end of the handle just in case I East Wing it again.

The awl itself is actually a canvas stitching tool used to pierce the canvas then pull back the thread. But I use it mostly as a very accurate marking tool.

The steel is unbelievable as having it for over 30 years have not had to sharpen it once. Hence spending the time on a tool that has served me well over time.

Looking at the overall big picture I took it in to show it off to my good wife. I told her I could probable buy the handle for a couple of pounds and spend a lot more time with her.

As a result of this conversation I am now in the process of replacing every tool that has a handle attached to it on my lathe whether it needs it or not.

Colin.

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Or...grab your block plane and knock the corners off (planing the length not across!). Probably less than a three minute job.
You could even have mounted it on the lathe and planed it in place.
Just sayin'. ;)
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God save the hand plane! Easy and you get to hear that fantstic Sssssssshk sound.
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Nice post and a great set of pictures for documentation.

Now it is fixed you need to use it.
I know there are umpteen ways to make this process quicker, none of which my wife is particularly fond of. The whole concept of this exercise is to keep a retired guy busy, dreaming up contractions that absorb my time and keep the brain ticking over. I dread the day my wife comes out to the workshop and I am standing there wondering where I am or why I came out here in the first place.

What I'm trying to say its not about the jig. its about trying to keep the grey matter working. shaving the corners or battering the corners off in the lathe is an easy acceptable option, buts its not as challenging or thought provoking as attempting to make or create something that might or might not work. And it kept me happy as Larry for a day at least in my workshop.

Colin
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The mind/memory is the second thing to go when you get older!!
The mind/memory is the second thing to go when you get older!!
What's the first; I can't remember? 0:)
Well done Colin, right up to the last shot I assumed that you didn't have a lathe! Why didn't you just pop it into the lathe and with a decent size gouge turn it down to size in next to no time?
Is there a Genie in there Harry?
JAs you can see, I used my newly sharpened chisels and turned the front to accept a copper ferrule which being a plumber is a cutting of 22mm 3/4inch copper supply pipe which i coated with epoxy and forced home on my vice.
When I do that I use the brass end of a fired 12 ga shotgun shell. Works nicely.
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