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I have an older incra ls First time trying box joints they are to snug. I was using a Irwin carbide 1/2 inch bit. I checked the bit and it varies from .510 near the Shank to .485 at the tip. I am trying to cut 1/2 inch box joints. My setup may be sloppy I will set it back up again tomorrow. Tired of messing with it today. Any ideas greatly appreciated.
 

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The tapered bit will definitely cause you problems. That may not be the only problem but it is one you need to correct.
 

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I have an older incra ls First time trying box joints they are to snug. I was using a Irwin carbide 1/2 inch bit. I checked the bit and it varies from .510 near the Shank to .485 at the tip. I am trying to cut 1/2 inch box joints. My setup may be sloppy I will set it back up again tomorrow. Tired of messing with it today. Any ideas greatly appreciated.
I don't like the quality of Irwin tools. Whiteside bits is what I use now. I have been through the problems of using cheap bits.

https://www.hartvilletool.com/category/straight-router-bits
 
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Thanks I think the bit is the problem it is a cheap one that came with a set I bought at Lowes. I just bought a whiteside template set and love the way it cuts. Guess I will have to buy a whiteside for box joints.
 

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Buy cheap---get cheap results. Trying to get by with cheap tools is like stopplng your watch to save time. Don't work.
 
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Exactly, it's not just the taper, and you'll have good luck with Whiteside. I have the Incra, and if the bit cuts less than 0.500", you'll have an interference fit. It's the way the Incra works. I had this issue with my Freud bit (with no noticeable taper), but I can't recall exactly how narrow...something like 0.492". With Whiteside bits, I don't have this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys

Thanks for all the good input. The best bit I could buy locally was a Freud 1/2 inch shank 1/2 inch straight cut. It miked out at .502, parallel and straight. Cuts great joints fits like a glove. Just cut some 1/2 inch pine to test the fit good friction fit. :smile:
 
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