I am considering the Infinity Precision Twist Slot Cutting Router Bit model 61-512. Does anyone have any experience with this adjustable slot cutter router bit?
Really interesting and could be very handy but my router didn't even cost that. :surprise:Very interesting bit. Being able to change the width of the slot by a simple adjustment is very interesting. One bit for up to 1/4 inch slot, another for up to half inch. Adjustable in incriments of 4/1000 of an inch means you can cut to the thickness of the panel, tongue or spline. Looks very interesting. The pair is $250. I think I'd have to do a lot more of this kind of work to justify that. I do like that it has four cutters
Set of louvers. For some reason spellcheck doesn’t know that word. For the gable in an attic. That part was typonese. If my text is off check the keyboard for the letters on either side of the one that seems out of place. Very small keyboard on iPhone and very large thumb or finger trying to tap it. Makes for a bad combination.?????
When making flat panel doors, I cut the groove in the rails & stiles with two (or more) passes on the table saw, flipping the piece between passes. Use a piece of the same thickness to adjust the fence for the correct (slip) fit on the plywood panel. I bought a router bit that was supposedly the same thickness as the plywood but never got consistent results - either the plywood had a little bow or thickness variation which prevented the parts going together properly, plus the bit really needs to be a little larger than the plywood so that assembly goes smoothly. The other thing about the router bit is getting it exactly centered on the thickness - a lot of trial and error, so probably easier to mark all the outside faces and make sure you're always cutting from the same face. Doing the job on the table saw is way quicker, and the two pass method gives you a perfectly centered groove - and normally only a couple of fence adjustments to get the perfect fit. Because I'm still working with the Unifence, I cobbled together the set-up shown with my MagStop fence to give me pressure against the fence as well as down on the saw table while I was running the parts to cut the grooves.I have a stacked cutter set that came with 1/16, 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4. I’m trying to think if I ever needed something in between and I can’t think of that happening. The set also came with a bunch of shims which is handy if you are using two cutters to make a tongue or short tenon. I think I’d still go with a stackable set rather than one adjustable cutter. I think the set is more versatile.
I see what your doing, when I do something like this I rebate the end pieces so you can't see the dado's and they don't need to be stopped.Perhaps I did not make it clear that I am creating a STOPPED dado so a table saw approach will not be a good one. The attached jpg file is the exploded view of what I am making. I want to produce the stopped dado in the side boards. The through dado in the head and foot boards is made on the table saw with a traditional dado blade since the start and end of the dado is covered by the side boards.