David: I did the lid work on the CNC. I did the inside of the box on the CNC. I use VCarvePro and it has a dish clipart, so the bottom is a 30° dish. For the outside, I did the first 1" on the CNC. That's the longest end mill that I have. Then, I cut the rest to within about 1/16" of the final diameter on my bandsaw and used a flush cutting bit on the router table to take it down to final dimension.
The inside of the lid has a 1/4" deep rabbet so that the lid sits snugly inside the box bottom. I did that with a straight bit on the router table.
I did the finish sanding and polishing on the lathe.
When you include the jointer, planer and table saw to mill the rough-sawn lumber, it adds up to lots of machines for such a small project.
Thanks to you all. The process that I use is set out in detail in this youtube video.
It's not a typical inlay process using thin veneers for the inlay. Instead, the male and female pieces mate because they are both cut with a V bit. It makes for a very tight inlay with some wiggle room.
Tks again for all the kind words. I appreciate it.
The process for me is still a bit hit and miss. Using walnut as the inlay is a bit of an issue. Small parts of the design can break off. I've done some now where I cut the "female" with the CNC using a V bit, then fill it with coloured epoxy. It's a nice look, the available colours are pretty much endless, and it allows for finer detail.
What kind of CNC did you use. I have seen that tutorial on youtube and the Carbide3d (Shapeoko) has a similar tutorial on their community page I am going to make a v carve inlay for a game my son in law wants me to make called Catan. It has 6 sided board pieces with inlays of trees, farm land and other. The game is a settlement and trading game.
I used a Sienci Long Mill. It's a Canadian-developed machine. I use Vectric VCarvePro as the CAD/CAM software and UGS as the code sender.
I would think that pretty much any CNC would do these. The milling is not particularly complex.
Just for giggles, I looked at the Catan game. It would appear that you have a lot of work ahead of you.
The video is not mine. I linked to it to show the method that I used.
I have not tried thin inlaid veneer using this method. I don't believe that it would work. This method depends on the inlay being thick enough to form the "male" part of the V. That's the secret of this method. The inlay is like a wedge that you press into the female side. I can't see how you could cut a veneer that is only 1/42" to form a good V profile.
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