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Rick
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Interesting idea for mounting the spoil board

Just watched this video ,and I’ve never seen this done yet . By chance he’s working on an Avid Pro , which is what I purchased. But I’m sure it can be implemented with any cnc that uses extruded aluminum for the bottom supports if a person wants .
I’m curious as to what Honest John and Ger21 think of this , as maybe it’s more trouble than it’s worth .


Starts at 11:00


 

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Wondering what he's going to do for clamping??

I've got 7 - 3/4" 80/20 T-track running lengthways at various spacings. I'm going to put 1" pieces of either wood or MDF in between them, skim the entire work area, and do a grid. Then I can put material down anywhere on the bed and have access to a clamping area. If there'll be a profile cut I just have to put a piece of 1/8" whatever's on sale material under the model and pitch it when it's all chopped up. Should make the initial bed last quite a while. Right now I'm at the having the T-track installed (which was the most expensive). But I'm still using it regularly. Just watching how I place the cut material on the bed and putting something under the piece if it's going to have a profile cut, letting the clamping pressure hold it.

The "to do" list never gets shorter!!
 
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Actually, it seems like an easier method to attach it. But IMO, you'll want more support between the extrusions/2x4's, as it will sag between them.
I'd screw a layer (or two) of plywood first, and attach the spoilboard to that.
 

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Rick
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Actually, it seems like an easier method to attach it. But IMO, you'll want more support between the extrusions/2x4's, as it will sag between them.
I'd screw a layer (or two) of plywood first, and attach the spoilboard to that.
In hindsight, I probably should have ordered mine with an extra cross member
 

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You can order a couple from Avid (or 80/20 since that's where they come from) - along with all the fasteners.
 
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Wondering what he's going to do for clamping??

I've got 7 - 3/4" 80/20 T-track running lengthways at various spacings. I'm going to put 1" pieces of either wood or MDF in between them, skim the entire work area, and do a grid. Then I can put material down anywhere on the bed and have access to a clamping area. If there'll be a profile cut I just have to put a piece of 1/8" whatever's on sale material under the model and pitch it when it's all chopped up. Should make the initial bed last quite a while. Right now I'm at the having the T-track installed (which was the most expensive). But I'm still using it regularly. Just watching how I place the cut material on the bed and putting something under the piece if it's going to have a profile cut, letting the clamping pressure hold it.

The "to do" list never gets shorter!!
I can also rip down some stock 2 x 6's and 8's to fit too. Got plenty of Z height with this Avid machine compared to the Probotix.
 
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Pretty much what I did 4 years ago. I slid carriage bolts into the slots in the 80mm x 80mm extrusions that support the spoilboard and used them to attach the 2x4s slightly proud. Much cheaper than t-nuts and no blindly trying to hit them with bolts. Milled the tops of 2x4s parallel to the X and Y axes.
Routed slots for t-track in spoilboard, 2 inch screws go through t-track into the 2x4s and hold spoilboard in place, no other screws. Looks clean.
 

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Rick
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Pretty much what I did 4 years ago. I slid carriage bolts into the slots in the 80mm x 80mm extrusions that support the spoilboard and used them to attach the 2x4s slightly proud. Much cheaper than t-nuts and no blindly trying to hit them with bolts. Milled the tops of 2x4s parallel to the X and Y axes.
Routed slots for t-track in spoilboard, 2 inch screws go through t-track into the 2x4s and hold spoilboard in place, no other screws. Looks clean.
Should have known that if anyone would have thought of this idea already , it would be you .
Nice job ;)
 
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