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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi

My name is Saf and I've recently got the bug to do wood work,

I bought my first router table and router, after research and bit a luck I got myself a

Charnwood Router Table Model No. W015
and
Triton 2000w Plunge Router Model no. TRB001

Can you please have a look at this picture, and tell me what router bit to use.

A. would i have to use 2 bits for this a square and then one with an angle, is that possible. the angle would be about 11-15%

B. i think i got this one now by using a dove tail router bit i can get this shape.

Its "A" that I'm struggling with.

Picture 2 shows you what I'm trying to achieve the glass is at angle

Thank you
 

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Ross
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Welcome to the forum Saf.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Ross

thank you

Nice to be here, there is a lot of information here.

I cant believe the title,
It was meant to Say "intro"

never mind
 

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Welcome to the forum, Saf.

You could make that slot with a straight cutter and a chamfer cutter.

Personally, I feel that the slot, as shown, will not provide support for the front edgeof the glass.

Can you do an angled slot with a table saw?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks for the reply

The angle shown is to wide,

If you had to do hold the glass in place and provide support to the glass,

what angle would you recommend and what router bit ?

So use a straight cutter and a chamfer cutter say 11% angle
 

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Hi

My name is Saf and I've recently got the bug to do wood work,

I bought my first router table and router, after research and bit a luck I got myself a

Charnwood Router Table Model No. W015
and
Triton 2000w Plunge Router Model no. TRB001

Can you please have a look at this picture, and tell me what router bit to use.

A. would i have to use 2 bits for this a square and then one with an angle, is that possible. the angle would be about 11-15%

B. i think i got this one now by using a dove tail router bit i can get this shape.

Its "A" that I'm struggling with.

Picture 2 shows you what I'm trying to achieve the glass is at angle

Thank you
This is how I would do it, a bit slightly larger dia. than the glass thickness in a tilting base on my trim router. The wood is then ripped to width on the table saw. This would be an especially fast method for production runs, long boards slotted, ripped to width then cut to length. Several old trim routers have a tilting base as an accessory as shown on this one which I recently sold.
 

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I would either go with Harry's method or a table saw with a good dado set in it.You can't go too much angle on the groove or the torque from the weight of the glass might snap off the lip of wood holding it in place.
 

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This is how I would do it, a bit slightly larger dia. than the glass thickness in a tilting base on my trim router. The wood is then ripped to width on the table saw. This would be an especially fast method for production runs, long boards slotted, ripped to width then cut to length. Several old trim routers have a tilting base as an accessory as shown on this one which I recently sold.
Harry I was going to say what you have said, but you have said it first so thanks for that, N
 

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Hi

I don't see what the big deal is, make one pass with the table saw then make one more pass with the blade set at 15 deg..

===

Hi

My name is Saf and I've recently got the bug to do wood work,

I bought my first router table and router, after research and bit a luck I got myself a

Charnwood Router Table Model No. W015
and
Triton 2000w Plunge Router Model no. TRB001

Can you please have a look at this picture, and tell me what router bit to use.

A. would i have to use 2 bits for this a square and then one with an angle, is that possible. the angle would be about 11-15%

B. i think i got this one now by using a dove tail router bit i can get this shape.

Its "A" that I'm struggling with.

Picture 2 shows you what I'm trying to achieve the glass is at angle

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
hi guys thanks for your reply's and help,

I do have a table saw but it is only the Dewalt Flip type so a little limted to what i can do.

I like the idea of using a dado bit, (i had to Google dado as I was unsure) Is there a way i could make a simple jig that would allow me to cut at an angle of say 10-11 degrees.

My table will not allow my router to change angle.

Would it be as simple as having a 2 pieces of timber cut at angle that would then allow the piece of wood to sit on and to pass over the router bit at a slight angle?
 

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hi guys thanks for your reply's and help,

I do have a table saw but it is only the Dewalt Flip type so a little limted to what i can do.

I like the idea of using a dado bit, (i had to Google dado as I was unsure) Is there a way i could make a simple jig that would allow me to cut at an angle of say 10-11 degrees.

My table will not allow my router to change angle.

Would it be as simple as having a 2 pieces of timber cut at angle that would then allow the piece of wood to sit on and to pass over the router bit at a slight angle?
Out of curiosity I decided to try my suggested method which turned out to be fast and effective. Sure, I could have done it on the compound mitre saw but the width of the groove would be fixed by the kerf of the blade. Doing it with the router allows choice of bit diameter.
 

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hi guys thanks for your reply's and help,

I do have a table saw but it is only the Dewalt Flip type so a little limted to what i can do.

I like the idea of using a dado bit, (i had to Google dado as I was unsure) Is there a way i could make a simple jig that would allow me to cut at an angle of say 10-11 degrees.

My table will not allow my router to change angle.

Would it be as simple as having a 2 pieces of timber cut at angle that would then allow the piece of wood to sit on and to pass over the router bit at a slight angle?
Saf, if you can't angle the router then you need to angle the board. The easy way to do that is to add a spacer on top of your table stuck against the fence. That way one side of your board will sit on the table and the other side will sit on top of the spacer. I can't tell you how tall it needs to be because I don't know the width of the board you are making but I would say 25mm tall is a good starting point. You can use double sided carpet tape to hold the spacer to your fence. Use a push block to move the work over the bit as this is a bit dangerous without one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
nice work Harry

Cheer Charles for the suggestion.

Well I'm going to give a try and Ill post my results thank you for the help

Just to let you know I spoke to Trend Router bits today and they reckon they can make a bit, which will cut a 90 degrees on one side and will have a light angle on the other.

Let see what they come back with
 
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