Louie, I havent used the locking miter bit at all. My thought on this is that joint would look funny on the top of your case. Have you considered using a finger or box joint?
Intro and question
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Well here goes
My name is Louie Smith and I'm retired. I'm from Poplar Bluff ,Missouri. I create arrow points and blades from stone and glass. I also make all my display cases. Which brings me to the point . I'm looking for a better way to join the corners. I use a compound miter at the present time, but thought about using a 45 degree lock miter bit. I glue and nail the corners now,but I'd like a better looking and stronger joint. I'm using .75" oak material. The top of the cases measure .75" wide X .75" to 1" tall. I usually put a .25" to .375" rabbit for glass and .25" x .0625" inlay cut in the top for inlay banding. Has anyone used a 45 miter bit with these small size pieces or am I just creating more work for myself?
Thanks
Louie
Well here goes
My name is Louie Smith and I'm retired. I'm from Poplar Bluff ,Missouri. I create arrow points and blades from stone and glass. I also make all my display cases. Which brings me to the point . I'm looking for a better way to join the corners. I use a compound miter at the present time, but thought about using a 45 degree lock miter bit. I glue and nail the corners now,but I'd like a better looking and stronger joint. I'm using .75" oak material. The top of the cases measure .75" wide X .75" to 1" tall. I usually put a .25" to .375" rabbit for glass and .25" x .0625" inlay cut in the top for inlay banding. Has anyone used a 45 miter bit with these small size pieces or am I just creating more work for myself?Thanks
Louie
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Case corner detail attachment
Louie
I have attached a corner photo of one of my cases. Please excuse me this form style is new to me.BobandRick said:
Louie
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