Posts by Michel82
1 - 8 of 31 Posts
Hi Gerry,
Thanks, glad to be here. I asked about the type 4 because after some googling I found that most results are for types 1-3. I am glad though that mine has the Guide Bushing (# 868151-00) that I think will readily accept any PC type brass guides. I will soon get myself a set of those guides, hope they fit, then make myself some homemade jigs. That’s a level up for me and a break from stone-age chisel work haha.
Cheers!
Thanks, glad to be here. I asked about the type 4 because after some googling I found that most results are for types 1-3. I am glad though that mine has the Guide Bushing (# 868151-00) that I think will readily accept any PC type brass guides. I will soon get myself a set of those guides, hope they fit, then make myself some homemade jigs. That’s a level up for me and a break from stone-age chisel work haha.
Cheers!
17 things by Tom
Very comprehensive, your material will definitely be a go to reference for me, a hobby woodworker. Per your recommendation, I got The Joint Book by Terrie Knoll. While I was at it, I also got the Workbenches book by Christopher Schwarz. Now, first things first, the hunt for a dedicated dust collection setup begins. Thank you so much Tom.
Hi Tom,
I’ll be working on filling up my profile very soon so you and other very helpful forum members could better tailor advice for those of us new to this hobby. I just need to get my retirement paperwork in order and when I’m finally set free, it’s on to making worthwhile projects. How I wish I went down this path when I was a bit younger. Back in the day when Batman wore grey on a color TV and the show Six Million Dollar Man wasn’t about cash.
Right, so table saw. This was my first tool purchased for the hobby last year. Uncanny that it is the same exact tool which you recommend, a contractor Bosch 10”. I already tuned the replacement blade (a thin-kerf Freud industrial 50t combi) to align with the riving knife and fence perfectly. Well, almost perfectly because of the inherent deficiency of the flimsy fence. I do get by with only the slightest of misalignment, not by more than a few thou on short rips. I fitted in a Bosch plastic zero clearance insert and also bought extension aluminum extrusion front and rear rails to increase capacity to support workpieces on the left side. I haven’t the time to install the latter yet though.
What I made with this tool so far are shop furniture. A pipe clamp rack, a miter saw table (bare bones for now, cabinets can wait) & a modified Paulk Workbench. What a guy, Ron Paulk btw, he gives away his design in step-by-step fashion for just $10. For fastening those projects, I use the Kreg K5 and lots of titebond.
Thanks for the advise about a Wixey digital angle finder. It’s in my Amazon cart as I write this, together with a 3/4 spiral upcut bit as recommended by Paulk as I haven’t drilled the clamping holes on the table yet.
I have a 1/2 Hp drill press that needs to be torn down to get the bearings replaced. It’s a Taiwan made 1985 model that a mechanic friend gave me. Really solid looking with cast iron parts. I bought a 14 piece Forster bit set for it and that’s when I found out that the runout was unacceptable. I hope to resolve that after I put in new bearings, a balanced Chuck and a new drive belt. If, it’s not up to par then I’ll just use it as a spindle sander and consider the brands you suggested.
Ok, a bandsaw. That’s down the road for me. But I really appreciate the recommendations and the effort you took to impart knowledge Tom. I just YouTube my way through most of this and, well bandsaws seem to have a very steep learning curve from what I’ve watched. So, dimensional s4s for now.
Yes dimensional timber is anything but. It’s wood, no surprise. For that I have a Stanley type-11 no. 7 jointer which is a jewel of a tool destined for a Museum. I reach for my jackplanes more often though, a vintage Stanley no. 5-1/2 fitted with a 2 1/4” Hock 01 blade, a Record 5-1/2 (which I had cambered the blade to hog out wood), and another 2” Stanley no. 5. I also have a couple of decent Stanley no. 4’s - one is fitted with a IBC/Cosman A2 blade & breaker set, which is kinda overkill as the set almost weighs as much as the frog. Oh and block planes, I got those covered too. I subscribe to Patrick’s Leach’s monthly antique tool sale newsletter
Make my own router table you say? I need to YouTube that first and save the good vids for “watch later”. That is Number One on the 17 things!
Ok chisels, I have the Narex bench set from Amazon & their 4 piece mortising set too. Just because. I found the steel on these to be quite “soft”, unlike the two “white steel” Koyamaichi chisels which are just incredible. A few years back, B.C. (Before Chisels), I got into Japanese knives for slicing and dicing as I wanted something worthwhile to learn as I hunkered down the mundane task of prepping ingredients to cook family meals. That turned into a passion and really spiced things up, so to speak.
Coincidentally, the way you sharpen these knives is asymmetric. Bevel heavy on one side way more than the other. So as luck would have it, I already have a good degree of the skill set ready for hand sharpening woodworking tools. What a surprise! What’s more important though is that I already have many different kinds of Japanese whetstones just lying around. Debado coarse to medium grit, then for sharpening from 3000 grit up - Naniwa Chosera and then for polishing, a kitayama 8000 I have a Shapton for a mirror finish but I prefer to strop, as I do with my knives. I flatten these stones with an Atoma Economy #400 diamond plate which works up mud, and I refine the surface with the use a nagura or “correcting” stone.
From eBay I got a vintage Lufkin No. 4 Grad combi square for $31. Yes this one has engraved markings up to 1/64th, which I can barely see without spectacles. It’s a handy, fits in your apron 6” and was a steal at 31 bucks because it’s missing the scribe and has minor cosmetic pitting. I tested it for squareness at my friend’s shop. We didn’t find any discernible deviation from a machinist solid square. For scribing longer lines I just use a speed square or a roof framing square.
I got a Gripper last Black Friday for $53 if I recall correctly. Thanks for stressing it’s importance, plus its very easy to go through a cut as well because I think it makes it a snap to rest the work piece against the fence when you make the rip. DONT USE A TABLE SAW WITHOUT ONE... you don’t want to repeat a misaligned cut.
Thank you you all the advice. I wish you all the best.
Regards,
Mitch
I’ll be working on filling up my profile very soon so you and other very helpful forum members could better tailor advice for those of us new to this hobby. I just need to get my retirement paperwork in order and when I’m finally set free, it’s on to making worthwhile projects. How I wish I went down this path when I was a bit younger. Back in the day when Batman wore grey on a color TV and the show Six Million Dollar Man wasn’t about cash.
Right, so table saw. This was my first tool purchased for the hobby last year. Uncanny that it is the same exact tool which you recommend, a contractor Bosch 10”. I already tuned the replacement blade (a thin-kerf Freud industrial 50t combi) to align with the riving knife and fence perfectly. Well, almost perfectly because of the inherent deficiency of the flimsy fence. I do get by with only the slightest of misalignment, not by more than a few thou on short rips. I fitted in a Bosch plastic zero clearance insert and also bought extension aluminum extrusion front and rear rails to increase capacity to support workpieces on the left side. I haven’t the time to install the latter yet though.
What I made with this tool so far are shop furniture. A pipe clamp rack, a miter saw table (bare bones for now, cabinets can wait) & a modified Paulk Workbench. What a guy, Ron Paulk btw, he gives away his design in step-by-step fashion for just $10. For fastening those projects, I use the Kreg K5 and lots of titebond.
Thanks for the advise about a Wixey digital angle finder. It’s in my Amazon cart as I write this, together with a 3/4 spiral upcut bit as recommended by Paulk as I haven’t drilled the clamping holes on the table yet.
I have a 1/2 Hp drill press that needs to be torn down to get the bearings replaced. It’s a Taiwan made 1985 model that a mechanic friend gave me. Really solid looking with cast iron parts. I bought a 14 piece Forster bit set for it and that’s when I found out that the runout was unacceptable. I hope to resolve that after I put in new bearings, a balanced Chuck and a new drive belt. If, it’s not up to par then I’ll just use it as a spindle sander and consider the brands you suggested.
Ok, a bandsaw. That’s down the road for me. But I really appreciate the recommendations and the effort you took to impart knowledge Tom. I just YouTube my way through most of this and, well bandsaws seem to have a very steep learning curve from what I’ve watched. So, dimensional s4s for now.
Yes dimensional timber is anything but. It’s wood, no surprise. For that I have a Stanley type-11 no. 7 jointer which is a jewel of a tool destined for a Museum. I reach for my jackplanes more often though, a vintage Stanley no. 5-1/2 fitted with a 2 1/4” Hock 01 blade, a Record 5-1/2 (which I had cambered the blade to hog out wood), and another 2” Stanley no. 5. I also have a couple of decent Stanley no. 4’s - one is fitted with a IBC/Cosman A2 blade & breaker set, which is kinda overkill as the set almost weighs as much as the frog. Oh and block planes, I got those covered too. I subscribe to Patrick’s Leach’s monthly antique tool sale newsletter
Make my own router table you say? I need to YouTube that first and save the good vids for “watch later”. That is Number One on the 17 things!
Ok chisels, I have the Narex bench set from Amazon & their 4 piece mortising set too. Just because. I found the steel on these to be quite “soft”, unlike the two “white steel” Koyamaichi chisels which are just incredible. A few years back, B.C. (Before Chisels), I got into Japanese knives for slicing and dicing as I wanted something worthwhile to learn as I hunkered down the mundane task of prepping ingredients to cook family meals. That turned into a passion and really spiced things up, so to speak.
Coincidentally, the way you sharpen these knives is asymmetric. Bevel heavy on one side way more than the other. So as luck would have it, I already have a good degree of the skill set ready for hand sharpening woodworking tools. What a surprise! What’s more important though is that I already have many different kinds of Japanese whetstones just lying around. Debado coarse to medium grit, then for sharpening from 3000 grit up - Naniwa Chosera and then for polishing, a kitayama 8000 I have a Shapton for a mirror finish but I prefer to strop, as I do with my knives. I flatten these stones with an Atoma Economy #400 diamond plate which works up mud, and I refine the surface with the use a nagura or “correcting” stone.
From eBay I got a vintage Lufkin No. 4 Grad combi square for $31. Yes this one has engraved markings up to 1/64th, which I can barely see without spectacles. It’s a handy, fits in your apron 6” and was a steal at 31 bucks because it’s missing the scribe and has minor cosmetic pitting. I tested it for squareness at my friend’s shop. We didn’t find any discernible deviation from a machinist solid square. For scribing longer lines I just use a speed square or a roof framing square.
I got a Gripper last Black Friday for $53 if I recall correctly. Thanks for stressing it’s importance, plus its very easy to go through a cut as well because I think it makes it a snap to rest the work piece against the fence when you make the rip. DONT USE A TABLE SAW WITHOUT ONE... you don’t want to repeat a misaligned cut.
Thank you you all the advice. I wish you all the best.
Regards,
Mitch
Hi Stick,
Thanks for the warm welcome & the links too!
1... Bosch fence issue: nothing big really, I just find the need to push the guide against the front rail as I move it along left or right, and sometimes lightly tap the rear/far part of the fence before locking down. I never owned a table saw before and that’s what I did when I first set it up because it hardly cut straight the first few times I used it. So, I decided to play around with it learning as I go. I first loosened the bolts that holds the entire motor and gear assy. Then I put it in alignment using a borrowed dial gauge after seeing how to’s on YouTube. Now the blade is parallel with the miter slots/track (it was off by more than .008 front of the blade to back previously). The saw cuts true now. However, I still do the fence wiggle before locking, I must confess.
2... Tilt Box it is then, good thing I didn’t get the Wixey yet because honestly, I haven’t found a need to do angled cuts on the Bosch. The 13” capacity of my compound sliding miter saw has got me through what I have accomplished so far.
3... Look to see if the quill is bent... I did & it seems to be ok. The spindle is straight. the problem might be the chuck as the previous owner mentioned.
4... Laguna (will whisper that brand in my wife’s ear when she’s sleeping to send subliminal thoughts)
5... Thanks I’ll go see the substitute joiner PDF...
6... there are volumes here on RT's... I’m so glad to have stumbled on in here.
7... I use the Narex also... Even in my Bosch Bulldog...
I believe you are sharpening the out of OEM... I didn’t understand that last one, sorry Stick. If you mean changed the bevel angle on the Narex, yes I did.
8... Is this the way you are sharpening your chisels??? ...Oh you mean like a Japanese chef knife? No Stick ...25-28 ish primary bevel then polish the leading edge to near 30 deg. Totally flat for the back, no “ruler trick”. Just to give you an idea, I sharpen the way Paul Sellers shows on his channel (but without the talking, and way slower). I do it methodically, not rushing to get it done, and with new or really dull blades I go through more than three grits. It’s relaxing for me, I zone in and shut the world out just as I do with the cooking knives. How I find that enjoyable is beyond me.
dust collection... DesertRatTom has that covered for me when I hopped on aboard. I’ll be getting the 2Hp motor and mount that outside, which he recommended. I just need to first figure out my hose and PVC tubing route as I haven’t quite finalized the arrangement of my shop space. I want to finish reading “Best Workshops” From the Editors of Fine Woodworking first.
All the best!
Thanks for the warm welcome & the links too!
1... Bosch fence issue: nothing big really, I just find the need to push the guide against the front rail as I move it along left or right, and sometimes lightly tap the rear/far part of the fence before locking down. I never owned a table saw before and that’s what I did when I first set it up because it hardly cut straight the first few times I used it. So, I decided to play around with it learning as I go. I first loosened the bolts that holds the entire motor and gear assy. Then I put it in alignment using a borrowed dial gauge after seeing how to’s on YouTube. Now the blade is parallel with the miter slots/track (it was off by more than .008 front of the blade to back previously). The saw cuts true now. However, I still do the fence wiggle before locking, I must confess.
2... Tilt Box it is then, good thing I didn’t get the Wixey yet because honestly, I haven’t found a need to do angled cuts on the Bosch. The 13” capacity of my compound sliding miter saw has got me through what I have accomplished so far.
3... Look to see if the quill is bent... I did & it seems to be ok. The spindle is straight. the problem might be the chuck as the previous owner mentioned.
4... Laguna (will whisper that brand in my wife’s ear when she’s sleeping to send subliminal thoughts)
5... Thanks I’ll go see the substitute joiner PDF...
6... there are volumes here on RT's... I’m so glad to have stumbled on in here.
7... I use the Narex also... Even in my Bosch Bulldog...
I believe you are sharpening the out of OEM... I didn’t understand that last one, sorry Stick. If you mean changed the bevel angle on the Narex, yes I did.
8... Is this the way you are sharpening your chisels??? ...Oh you mean like a Japanese chef knife? No Stick ...25-28 ish primary bevel then polish the leading edge to near 30 deg. Totally flat for the back, no “ruler trick”. Just to give you an idea, I sharpen the way Paul Sellers shows on his channel (but without the talking, and way slower). I do it methodically, not rushing to get it done, and with new or really dull blades I go through more than three grits. It’s relaxing for me, I zone in and shut the world out just as I do with the cooking knives. How I find that enjoyable is beyond me.
dust collection... DesertRatTom has that covered for me when I hopped on aboard. I’ll be getting the 2Hp motor and mount that outside, which he recommended. I just need to first figure out my hose and PVC tubing route as I haven’t quite finalized the arrangement of my shop space. I want to finish reading “Best Workshops” From the Editors of Fine Woodworking first.
All the best!
1 - 8 of 31 Posts
