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hi!

my name is Phil, and I live in Sydney, Nova Scotia. I've been wood working for about ten years, and I have a small, but reasonably well-equipped shop in my basement.

My main reason for being here is to get some help using a lock miter bit, but I'll deal with that in another message. Looking forward to reading some interesting messages. Sure wish we could get the Router Workshop on TV here!

that's about it for now, regards to all

Phil
 

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Hi Phil

You're Welcome for the links.

Most of the URL's I know about will show you how to setup the bits up right but not show you what to do if you don't.
The lock miter bit is one of the hardest bits to setup and use, because it takes the edge off the wood for the sharp edge of the miter.
You will make alot of fire wood with this bit until you get it set just right for both cuts what works for me, is I draw a line on the bit dog part, center with a awl and then mark the stock with a center mark, then mark two test parts and check the fit.
The stock must be true for both parts that's to say if you are using plywood they need to be the same ,on the button..
You will need to use a jig like below to keep the stock true and sq. when you make the pass.
You will also need to offset the out feed fence by just a bit ( 1/32" ) for the pass when the stock is flat on the table.

Bj :)
 

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Lock Miter

Hello Phil. from Harry in Western Australia.I found great difficulty in setting-up the Lock Miter cutter,that is until I was given a copy of an article by a fellow countryman of yours a George Vondriska, which appeared in the April 2000 issue of American Woodworker, I'm sure that a fellow American reading this will arrange a copy for you. Now for a couple of hints,so that you don't use up a small forest making test cuts. once you have a perfect set-up for a particular thickness timber, make and keep a sample as shown which will make the next set-up with that size timber a breeze, this also applies to box joints. Don't forget that there are three sizes of Lock Miter cutters,the baby covers timber thickness from 12 to 16mm,the middle one 14 to 19mm and the biggy from 19 to 28mm.
I am also a relative newcomer to this forum, only about three weeks and have found a huge problem with it, the forum is so BIG that I haven't had time to make a single grain of sawdust! I have in this short time made contact with interesting people and will, when time permits, try some of the methods of doing things in a different way to what I am used to, and in return I hope that some of the experienced members of the forum will do likewise! no names no packdrill! I look forward Phil. to seeing pictures of you're first project using Lock Miter joints. Harry
 

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Hi Phil

Here's a link or two to run down the copy of the article and with some luck you can get a old copy of it from American-Woodworker or eBay see last URL below. :)

April 2000 Lock Miters Step-by-step how-to to demystify this difficultjoint
http://www.aboutwildearth.com/AmWdArt.html

http://www.aboutwildearth.com/
http://www.aboutwildearth.com/classes.htm
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/articles/adindex/AWWebIndex109.pdf
http://magazine-directory.com/American-Woodworker.htm
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April 2000 ▼
http://cgi.ebay.com/20-AMERICAN-WOO...goryZ280QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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How-To-Videos
http://store.woodline.com/v2/c-100-how-to-videos.aspx
http://store.woodline.com/v2/pc-118...wer-lock-rail-stile-and-glue-joint-video.aspx


Bj :)
 

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Bob, those URL's are great, me thinks that I'll be spending a lot of time browsing them. Harry
 
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