1... certainly will..
2... you and me both..
is your piping undersized???
any large step downs in sizing,, say 4 ~ 2''... or even down to 1¼''???
introduction, new member
Hello Routerforum members: I just signed up, and I am introducing myself. I had never heard of of this forum group(stumbled across it it doing a Google search for router table switches) My name is Tim, and I live in Nv. I am a hobbyist woodworker that got interested by watching Norm. I am slowly becoming a router junkie. Just got the "big" Woodpecker router table with the PC7518, and
I am still putting it together(building an enclosed cabinet inside the stand). I also really enjoy home diy projects. I am NOT on any type of social media, and want no part of any of it. I also do not know how to upload anything, so please don't get upset if I never post photos. Feel free with the questions/comments. Thank you for having me.
Tim
I am still putting it together(building an enclosed cabinet inside the stand). I also really enjoy home diy projects. I am NOT on any type of social media, and want no part of any of it. I also do not know how to upload anything, so please don't get upset if I never post photos. Feel free with the questions/comments. Thank you for having me.
Tim
21 - 39 of 39 Posts
2... you and me both..
is your piping undersized???
any large step downs in sizing,, say 4 ~ 2''... or even down to 1¼''???
I should have clarified earlier, the Shopsmith DC is a separate mobile unit with 3 ports, two currently capped. So only 1 - 2-1/2" port is being used at any time. It's basically a large shop vac with a large plastic bag to collect the sawdust. Here's a picture of it with the finer mesh bag. And I need to admit to a senior moment. If air can't escape (dirty filter) the no air gets in resulting in less suction. Filter bag is dirty. Time for a tear down and good cleaning.1... certainly will..
2... you and me both..
is your piping undersized???
any large step downs in sizing,, say 4 ~ 2''... or even down to 1¼''???
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Stick: Sorry I am just getting back to you. I have not been online in a couple of days. I have the Jet DC500.
To all that have welcomed me... THANK YOU. I so much appreciate it, and thank you for including me in your discussion, and suggestions.
So much of my "woodworking" is actually home maintenance/repair because my house is 88 years old, and the list never ends. I do not get a lot of "fun shop" time. Mostly cutting boards, and mallets(I like making
those). Again thank you all.
Tim.
To all that have welcomed me... THANK YOU. I so much appreciate it, and thank you for including me in your discussion, and suggestions.
So much of my "woodworking" is actually home maintenance/repair because my house is 88 years old, and the list never ends. I do not get a lot of "fun shop" time. Mostly cutting boards, and mallets(I like making
those). Again thank you all.
Tim.
David: When the filter gets dirty, do you dispose of it , and install a new one? Can not imagine trying to clean it/blow it out. Does it get dirty fairly quick?
can you port it for 4"???So only 1 - 2-1/2" port is being used at any time.
Time for a tear down and good cleaning.
have you considered a Wix filter can and adding a separator???
you need to talk to @Herb Stoops...Stick: and mallets(I like making
those).
Tim.
1... no... clean it..1... When the filter gets dirty, do you dispose of it , and install a new one?
2... Can not imagine trying to clean it/blow it out.
3... Does it get dirty fairly quick?
2... put hold on the compressed air... forget it even...
2... bag type..
turn it inside out...
shake the snot out of it, outdoors, w/ the wind to your back...
don't forget to close your eyes and hold your breath..
a shop vac or compressed air rearranges the weave of the bag so that latter you are wondering how the hole(s) got in the bag...
canister type...
it should have the cleaning paddles in it..
just spin them often...
I have the 1300 and it has them...
no paddles???
take the canister outside and gently thump the heavies loose...
now you get to use your shop vac...vacuum from the inside of the canister...
wear a good dust mask...
3... yup..
NOTES:
capture the swarf...
it comes in handy for so many things...
@sreilly...
I see you have floor wand...
suggest you discontinue using that...
if you were to pick up metal (hidden in the floor sweepings) as in in fasteners or hardware and when the metal hits the impeller you can generate sparks that could start a sawdust fire...
the fire could smoulder for hours and hours before it comes to life...
VOE says a sawdust fire is a tough fire to put out..
there may also be the chance that the airborne ultra fine swarf could flash or detonate...
you also risk damaging your unit...
I see you have floor wand...
suggest you discontinue using that...
if you were to pick up metal (hidden in the floor sweepings) as in in fasteners or hardware and when the metal hits the impeller you can generate sparks that could start a sawdust fire...
the fire could smoulder for hours and hours before it comes to life...
VOE says a sawdust fire is a tough fire to put out..
there may also be the chance that the airborne ultra fine swarf could flash or detonate...
you also risk damaging your unit...
Stick,can you port it for 4"???
have you considered a Wix filter can and adding a separator???
This unit has become more of a floor sweeper as I have a central system I installed for almost all of the shop. A ClearView 1800 6" pvc piped system with a 5 HP motor and 16" impeller. I also installed a full can sensor to stop the system when the 30 gallon galvanized trash can gets full. I've even been impressed with the old 1980's Craftsman shop wet/dry vac that I've started using again for things like the Kreg Foreman and the Leigh Mortise and Tenon jig. In fact I just bought a new spare filter the other day for quick change. Loud but effective on the small port tools. I used it for the first time with the Festool track saw and had just a smidgen of sawdust to clean up afterwards. But the main workhorse is the CV1800 and it does a great job. Was a bear to install by myself but worth the money and effort.
at 1450 CFM I would think that an 8'' trunk line would be more efficient......Stick,
A ClearView 1800 6" PVC piped system with a 5 HP motor and 16" impeller.
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The day you posted this was my wife's birthday so I missed it. There are some things to be careful of when you install a router in an enclosed cabinet. The most important is that the router can get hot in a cabinet. I worked in a place that had a big Makita in a cabinet and I could feel it get hot right through the sides. That is really bad for the router. The router has a built in fan that pushes air past the bit to keep the motor cool, push debris away from the inside, and push the hot air around the bit the other direction. When you suck air in the other way you can bring all that heat back down into the cabinet. Herb Stoops came up with a great idea for his where he attached an accordion style hose to the end of his router that allows the router to suck air from outside the box. That's the only fix I've seen that completely addresses the problem.Hello Routerforum members: I just signed up, and I am introducing myself. I had never heard of of this forum group(stumbled across it it doing a Google search for router table switches) My name is Tim, and I live in Nv. I am a hobbyist woodworker that got interested by watching Norm. I am slowly becoming a router junkie. Just got the "big" Woodpecker router table with the PC7518, and
I am still putting it together(building an enclosed cabinet inside the stand). I also really enjoy home diy projects. I am NOT on any type of social media, and want no part of any of it. I also do not know how to upload anything, so please don't get upset if I never post photos. Feel free with the questions/comments. Thank you for having me.
Tim
The other issue is making sure that you have equal opening(s) in your box to the cross sectional area of your DC hose. A vac works by suspending the particles in an air stream to get them to the collector. If you have very little air going in, the pressure of the vacuum goes up but the air flow goes down and there is nothing to carry the particles through the pipe. So if you used a 4" hose to the box you'll need 12 1/2 square inches of openings in the box for the DC to be efficient.
I like the idea of adding an outside air hose to the air intake on the router.
I have a Wynn filter, but without paddles. Grizzly makes one with the paddles, wish I'd known about it. I tap the filter from the outside, and blow air back through the outside of the filter. Guess I could add to that removing the can after that and using a shop vac to remove leftover sawdust. I wear a mask whenever doing any kind of cleanup.
I found a much lower cost solution to the overhead air cleaner, made by WEN. Same stats as the JET, but a little smaller. Same filters, same hp motor, got two for about $100 (on sale) through WalMart online-delivered free to the local store. Speed and timer settings same as Jet. Mount near a wall so you get a circular air flow. I run it regularly. Pix below.
I didn't see any indicator that you have a separator installed in your system. I'd definitely put that in place. Pix below is the one I have. Fiber 30 gallon drum with metal top, two fittings as shown from Rockler. I only use that brand since 4 inches is not the same from all manufacturers.
System isn't allowing me to upload pictures. Will post them later.
I have a Wynn filter, but without paddles. Grizzly makes one with the paddles, wish I'd known about it. I tap the filter from the outside, and blow air back through the outside of the filter. Guess I could add to that removing the can after that and using a shop vac to remove leftover sawdust. I wear a mask whenever doing any kind of cleanup.
I found a much lower cost solution to the overhead air cleaner, made by WEN. Same stats as the JET, but a little smaller. Same filters, same hp motor, got two for about $100 (on sale) through WalMart online-delivered free to the local store. Speed and timer settings same as Jet. Mount near a wall so you get a circular air flow. I run it regularly. Pix below.
I didn't see any indicator that you have a separator installed in your system. I'd definitely put that in place. Pix below is the one I have. Fiber 30 gallon drum with metal top, two fittings as shown from Rockler. I only use that brand since 4 inches is not the same from all manufacturers.
System isn't allowing me to upload pictures. Will post them later.
Let me try those pictures agains.....
30 gallon drum and hoses are separate. What you get are the two plastic pieces that direct the air flow into a cyclone motion. If I were doing it again, I would consider adding the 4 inch cyclone instead, but that thing is expensive.
The WEN filter I mentioned is about 30 lbs. Can't see much difference between it and the Jet, except the WEN is more compact. It has a remote control, or you can push the buttons by hand.
30 gallon drum and hoses are separate. What you get are the two plastic pieces that direct the air flow into a cyclone motion. If I were doing it again, I would consider adding the 4 inch cyclone instead, but that thing is expensive.
The WEN filter I mentioned is about 30 lbs. Can't see much difference between it and the Jet, except the WEN is more compact. It has a remote control, or you can push the buttons by hand.
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The day you posted this was my wife's birthday so I missed it. There are some things to be careful of when you install a router in an enclosed cabinet. The most important is that the router can get hot in a cabinet. I worked in a place that had a big Makita in a cabinet and I could feel it get hot right through the sides. That is really bad for the router. The router has a built in fan that pushes air past the bit to keep the motor cool, push debris away from the inside, and push the hot air around the bit the other direction. When you suck air in the other way you can bring all that heat back down into the cabinet. Herb Stoops came up with a great idea for his where he attached an accordion style hose to the end of his router that allows the router to suck air from outside the box. That's the only fix I've seen that completely addresses the problem.
The other issue is making sure that you have equal opening(s) in your box to the cross sectional area of your DC hose. A vac works by suspending the particles in an air stream to get them to the collector. If you have very little air going in, the pressure of the vacuum goes up but the air flow goes down and there is nothing to carry the particles through the pipe. So if you used a 4" hose to the box you'll need 12 1/2 square inches of openings in the box for the DC to be efficient.
Chuck, I think it was Stick that came up with the idea of adding a flex hose to the bottom of the motor with a hose clamp . Great idea,by the way. I mount the motor down through the box bottom enclosing the router to let it draw clean air . I can't take credit for the idea though as it was a fellow on another forum that originally came up with the idea.
Herb
it was flex hose or a length of spaplok.. which ever fit best...Chuck, I think it was Stick that came up with the idea of adding a flex hose to the bottom of the motor with a hose clamp . Great idea,by the way. I mount the motor down through the box bottom enclosing the router to let it draw clean air . I can't take credit for the idea though as it was a fellow on another forum that originally came up with the idea.
Herb
The ShopSmith DC is not a vacuum cleaner it is a dust collector. It does not have the velocity of a vac. So when it is chocked down to 2 1/2" don't expect it to have any suction.I should have clarified earlier, the Shopsmith DC is a separate mobile unit with 3 ports, two currently capped. So only 1 - 2-1/2" port is being used at any time. It's basically a large shop vac with a large plastic bag to collect the sawdust. Here's a picture of it with the finer mesh bag. And I need to admit to a senior moment. If air can't escape (dirty filter) the no air gets in resulting in less suction. Filter bag is dirty. Time for a tear down and good cleaning.
A vacuum cleaner works on the principal of high velocity/low volume , a DC works on the principal of large volume/low velocity.
You would be better served by doing like Stick suggests and change that 3 port fitting to a 4" dia. and use the Rockler sweep flex and fittings approach for clean-up.
Herb
Chuck: Thank you for the heads-up. Maybe I will not install a front door on the router compartment, so as not to create a vacuum inside of it, and to let heat escape. What chips fall down through the throat plate wiil
collect on the shelf below, and some will get blown out the front. Not the end of the world. At least they will not get thrown 360 degrees. I will have my shop vac hooked up to the fence port, that should get most of
the chips . Again thank you.
Tim.
collect on the shelf below, and some will get blown out the front. Not the end of the world. At least they will not get thrown 360 degrees. I will have my shop vac hooked up to the fence port, that should get most of
the chips . Again thank you.
Tim.
Stick: I was David(DiFalkner) about his overhead swiveling box fan with the furnace filter attached, in terms cleaning/replacing the filter. Sorry for the confusion.
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