[tomp913]

Yes, would work for edge banding plywood carcasses, drawer fronts too, although I lean towards solid edging if it's going to see heavy/rough service. I've done enough of it that I bought one of the purpose made irons although, as mentioned, your wife's iron will work - just be sure to clean it thoroughly before returning. I never had much luck with rolling the banding, preferred to rub it with a softwood block with rounded edges as I felt I got a more even force - and I used the block to rub out laminate edging too.

There was a similar thread recently, talking more about trimming the edges - knife, razor blade, chisel, etc. - but I've always used the edge of a file the way I was taught by a gentleman who worked for a company that made institutional cabinets all his life. If you keep the file at a shallow angle and feed sideways as you stroke, the overhang can come off in a continuous curl, very quick once you get the hang of it.

If you think a heavier edging is preferable, I just read about a company on another forum that sell both the regular wood tape as well as heavier 1 mm, 2 mm and 3 mm thick product. I've never dealt with them and think you have to contact them for prices.

https://edgecoinc.com/veneer-wood-edge-banding-thick/

 

[tomp913]

Nope. I decided that the project at hand is so small that I can use scraps for solid wood edge banding and I won't have to worry about it coming off. Just got back from the wood store with some red oak for my drawer fronts, and the edges. But I may order some veneer banding for future use. And an iron to apply it with.

Most of my edge banding is made with scraps and cutoffs. Use the Rockler Thin Strip Guide to rip consistent thickness, sometimes think something like the jig in the attached .pdf may be quicker as you're not moving the fence for every pass - although it's limited on the length of strips that can realistically be ripped. I typically wipe on a thin coat of glue, let it dry for a few minutes and then apply another layer, rub the strip back and forth until the glue "grabs". For shop or painted cabinets, a pin nailer makes short work of assembly, otherwise I just use strips of painters tape. Getting ready to make up the drawer fronts for my router bit storage cabinet - making the fronts out of cut-offs of HD Sande plywood and the edging from poplar scraps, glue and pin nailed in place.

One thing to keep in mind when using either the iron-on or peel-and-stick, some finished may loosen the glue bond and affect adhesion - also a concern when using some of the "pre-glued" sheet veneers - this could be the reason for some of the failures. I don't think I've ever "sealed" the edge with glue before ironing on the tape, but most has been used with cabinet grade plywood - may consider that if I'm edging B-C fir though.

 

[tomp913]

This thread is a couple years old now, but I remembered it when I saw the attached YouTube video showing how to trim the glue-on edge banding - exactly the way that I tried to describe it, except that I normally laid the part flat to keep the file almost horizontal as I feel that I have better control that way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMC8mFFrYlY&feature=youtu.be&utm_campaign=PWW%20Editorial%20Newsletters&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=94203490&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-8n738B_F2s381X6kdC7DDAp9c66BKZvN2Gj9w-3QS5rFVztA0HG54st5SoBsHW3XyG4D2xPQUKtcB1whWb3t0uqWZ2qQ&utm_content=94200640&utm_source=hs_email

 

[tomp913]

Wrap a layer of masking tape around the part of the file that you lay on the face of your work. That will give you a very slight bevel on the edge.

Plus it stops you from getting a blister on the tips of your fingers.