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I suggest that you put a coat of glue on the edges first. Then iron the strips on.
Posts by Cherryville Chuck
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Let it dry. You need to fill the pores in the end grain otherwise there is only about 50% of the surface that the hot melt will stick to. I'm convinced that is why it has a tendency to want to let go a few years later. BTW, melamine glue does a great job of sticking it back on with some masking tape to hold in place. The only glue I use for bonding on the edges of ply, mdf, or particle board is melamine glue. It doesn't get sucked into the grain like regular wood glues do.
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Full strength. Just spread it on reasonably smooth. If it doesn't look a little bit glossy then it needs another coat. Remember that both wood glue and hot melt are both plastics so heat will bond them together. Ply and mdf aren't usually a problem after one coat but particle board may need more. It's extremely porous. Porosity means voids and that means that there is noting for the hot melt glue to stick to unless you fill the voids. Or solid wood banding if you are doing that. When I put the solid wood banding on I usually put a coat of glue on then wait 5-10 minutes and add a another coat. I'd rather have excessive squeeze out than joint failure.
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Let it dry and shave it off. On melamine board that means laying a sharp chisel flat on the panel and shave it. On ply it depends on how hard it is. Sometimes a card scraper works well. If you were going to paint the banding then I suppose you could wipe it off with a damp rag but even if you were just going to varathane (no stain i.e.) you risk sealing some of the grain and causing it to look blotchy.
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I strongly recommend using melamine glue for applying the banding. Titebond - Product
It's the only glue I use when applying to particle board. It will bond melamine to melamine over small areas as the water has to escape for it to set and it can't do that over large areas. When I made my cupboards some years ago I wanted slide out shelves so I took some 5/8" melamine and rimmed it with 3/4" birch to essentially make shallow boxes. I rabbeted the bottom edges of the birch to 3/8" thick and glued and held them with 4 or 5 brad nails per side. About 30 to 45 minutes later I realized I had made a measuring error and needed to take the frames apart. I split several of the rabbets off trying to do that and I've been sold on melamine glue ever since then.
It's the only glue I use when applying to particle board. It will bond melamine to melamine over small areas as the water has to escape for it to set and it can't do that over large areas. When I made my cupboards some years ago I wanted slide out shelves so I took some 5/8" melamine and rimmed it with 3/4" birch to essentially make shallow boxes. I rabbeted the bottom edges of the birch to 3/8" thick and glued and held them with 4 or 5 brad nails per side. About 30 to 45 minutes later I realized I had made a measuring error and needed to take the frames apart. I split several of the rabbets off trying to do that and I've been sold on melamine glue ever since then.
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Wrap a layer of masking tape around the part of the file that you lay on the face of your work. That will give you a very slight bevel on the edge.
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