I have used it for years and never have had a problem get mine now on e-bay from Florida
Iron on Edge Banding?
Has anyone tried Iron -On edge banding for plywood? I can't stand to have the edges of plywood show, so I've always cut strips of solid wood, glued them to the edges, and trimmed flush with laminate trimmer. I always knew there was iron-on banding available, but never really considered it. Now I see where I can get a 250 foot roll of red oak banding for $25. I'll spend several times that, plus a lot of time making 250 linear feet of banding. The task at hand is just a chest of drawers for shop tools, so it's a good place to experiment. My question is, does it stay on reliably??
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
Glue on edge banding, properly applied, works just fine. I find a clothes iron to be too bulky and you can buy a small iron from a hobby supply shop for about $25. It's used by hobbyist for ironing on the covering for model airplanes. I've actually used it for applying Ceconite covering on GA planes that we rebuild. Works great for getting into tight spaces.
P.S The file trick works well once the banding is cut close to it's final size and to get it there I have an edge band cutting tool that has a razor blade built into it. A little yellow plastic device that you just push along the edge. If you use the file and the edge banding is larger than the underlayment it can split the banding.
P.S The file trick works well once the banding is cut close to it's final size and to get it there I have an edge band cutting tool that has a razor blade built into it. A little yellow plastic device that you just push along the edge. If you use the file and the edge banding is larger than the underlayment it can split the banding.
Nope. I decided that the project at hand is so small that I can use scraps for solid wood edge banding and I won't have to worry about it coming off. Just got back from the wood store with some red oak for my drawer fronts, and the edges. But I may order some veneer banding for future use. And an iron to apply it with.done yet???
yes, miles of it, and with that said, you might consider the peel and stick type.
https://www.fastcap.com/product/fastedge-peel-and-stick-edgebanding
It costs more per LF but I have had my students do time studies and even with a moderate hourly rate, in the end the peel and stick is much more cost effective. It goes on in a fraction of the time. Hence, peel and stick.
You can work with it right away but do need to wait 24 for full cure of the moisture cure adhesive.
On another note, the Festool perfect edge hand held edgebandor is really the way to go. I had a chance to demo this in Vegas and in Scotland and it is a game changer. here is a video I posted on FB about it .
https://www.facebook.com/scott.grove.587/videos/10156112320188777/
good luck
https://www.fastcap.com/product/fastedge-peel-and-stick-edgebanding
It costs more per LF but I have had my students do time studies and even with a moderate hourly rate, in the end the peel and stick is much more cost effective. It goes on in a fraction of the time. Hence, peel and stick.
You can work with it right away but do need to wait 24 for full cure of the moisture cure adhesive.
On another note, the Festool perfect edge hand held edgebandor is really the way to go. I had a chance to demo this in Vegas and in Scotland and it is a game changer. here is a video I posted on FB about it .
https://www.facebook.com/scott.grove.587/videos/10156112320188777/
good luck
Most of my edge banding is made with scraps and cutoffs. Use the Rockler Thin Strip Guide to rip consistent thickness, sometimes think something like the jig in the attached .pdf may be quicker as you're not moving the fence for every pass - although it's limited on the length of strips that can realistically be ripped. I typically wipe on a thin coat of glue, let it dry for a few minutes and then apply another layer, rub the strip back and forth until the glue "grabs". For shop or painted cabinets, a pin nailer makes short work of assembly, otherwise I just use strips of painters tape. Getting ready to make up the drawer fronts for my router bit storage cabinet - making the fronts out of cut-offs of HD Sande plywood and the edging from poplar scraps, glue and pin nailed in place.Nope. I decided that the project at hand is so small that I can use scraps for solid wood edge banding and I won't have to worry about it coming off. Just got back from the wood store with some red oak for my drawer fronts, and the edges. But I may order some veneer banding for future use. And an iron to apply it with.
One thing to keep in mind when using either the iron-on or peel-and-stick, some finished may loosen the glue bond and affect adhesion - also a concern when using some of the "pre-glued" sheet veneers - this could be the reason for some of the failures. I don't think I've ever "sealed" the edge with glue before ironing on the tape, but most has been used with cabinet grade plywood - may consider that if I'm edging B-C fir though.
Attachments
-
384.9 KB Views: 160
Let it dry and shave it off. On melamine board that means laying a sharp chisel flat on the panel and shave it. On ply it depends on how hard it is. Sometimes a card scraper works well. If you were going to paint the banding then I suppose you could wipe it off with a damp rag but even if you were just going to varathane (no stain i.e.) you risk sealing some of the grain and causing it to look blotchy.what are you doing for excessive ''squeeze'' out???
I strongly recommend using melamine glue for applying the banding. Titebond - Product
It's the only glue I use when applying to particle board. It will bond melamine to melamine over small areas as the water has to escape for it to set and it can't do that over large areas. When I made my cupboards some years ago I wanted slide out shelves so I took some 5/8" melamine and rimmed it with 3/4" birch to essentially make shallow boxes. I rabbeted the bottom edges of the birch to 3/8" thick and glued and held them with 4 or 5 brad nails per side. About 30 to 45 minutes later I realized I had made a measuring error and needed to take the frames apart. I split several of the rabbets off trying to do that and I've been sold on melamine glue ever since then.
It's the only glue I use when applying to particle board. It will bond melamine to melamine over small areas as the water has to escape for it to set and it can't do that over large areas. When I made my cupboards some years ago I wanted slide out shelves so I took some 5/8" melamine and rimmed it with 3/4" birch to essentially make shallow boxes. I rabbeted the bottom edges of the birch to 3/8" thick and glued and held them with 4 or 5 brad nails per side. About 30 to 45 minutes later I realized I had made a measuring error and needed to take the frames apart. I split several of the rabbets off trying to do that and I've been sold on melamine glue ever since then.
This thread is a couple years old now, but I remembered it when I saw the attached YouTube video showing how to trim the glue-on edge banding - exactly the way that I tried to describe it, except that I normally laid the part flat to keep the file almost horizontal as I feel that I have better control that way.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMC8mFFrYlY&feature=youtu.be&utm_campaign=PWW%20Editorial%20Newsletters&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=94203490&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-8n738B_F2s381X6kdC7DDAp9c66BKZvN2Gj9w-3QS5rFVztA0HG54st5SoBsHW3XyG4D2xPQUKtcB1whWb3t0uqWZ2qQ&utm_content=94200640&utm_source=hs_email
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMC8mFFrYlY&feature=youtu.be&utm_campaign=PWW%20Editorial%20Newsletters&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=94203490&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-8n738B_F2s381X6kdC7DDAp9c66BKZvN2Gj9w-3QS5rFVztA0HG54st5SoBsHW3XyG4D2xPQUKtcB1whWb3t0uqWZ2qQ&utm_content=94200640&utm_source=hs_email
Wrap a layer of masking tape around the part of the file that you lay on the face of your work. That will give you a very slight bevel on the edge.
Plus it stops you from getting a blister on the tips of your fingers.Wrap a layer of masking tape around the part of the file that you lay on the face of your work. That will give you a very slight bevel on the edge.
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Router Forums
A forum community dedicated to router and woodworking professionals and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about different types of routing and routers, shop safety, finishing, woodworking related topics, styles, tools, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
