Router Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm talking about the inserts that make the hole in the router plate differant sizes.
I know the manufactured ones snap in place and that is probably something that we can not make. But I bet you guys have a way to make them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
You can make your plate out of 3/8" acrylic with a large recessed hole then make inserts out of thinner acrylic that attach with screws. Bill Hylton shows how to make plates in his book Router Magic. I bought this and many other woodworking books on Half.com. Many can be had for $5 to $10 delivered.
 

·
Premium Member
Retired since June 2000
Joined
·
15,065 Posts
The two inserts on the right came with the table, the other two plus several more I routed from Acrylic and drill holes to give me zero clearance for different size cutters. Notice the shim in the recessed hole, made from packaging material of various thickness's to bring the insert FLUSH with the table.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
402 Posts
The two inserts on the right came with the table, the other two plus several more I routed from Acrylic and drill holes to give me zero clearance for different size cutters. Notice the shim in the recessed hole, made from packaging material of various thickness's to bring the insert FLUSH with the table.
Hi Harry, i don't see yours inserts !

Santé

Oh yes, i see now ! One question: why yours inserts are round ? i make my inserts rectangulars .
Daniel
 

·
Premium Member
Retired since June 2000
Joined
·
15,065 Posts
Daniel, these are not the router mounting plates, they fit into the recess in the table concentric with the cutter and are always round, which is a much easier shape to make accurately than a square.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
515 Posts
I made mine out of aluminum. first the base 1/4 thick then turned a hole on a metal lathe leaving a rabbit then turned the inserts with matching rabbits and various holes in the center to fit the router bits. They fit very tight no screws needed. so far.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,786 Posts
Here's a shot or two of mine the top is all 3/4" phenolic with a big mounting plate that will take on any router without taking the handles off.it's milled out for the router on the backside and 3/8" thick lip on the edges the insert is 1/2" thick Alum. that will let a 4" router bit spin free, I do like to use the guides so I made a plate for the PC guides and I have milled out the smaller insert ring to take on the bigger guides ( 1 1/2" OD type) the only down fall with setup is the insert rings are made out of Alum. that will put gray marks on the stock now and than....I put some clear coat on them but it wears off real quick ,I just hate Alum. on the router table :(

http://www.routerforums.com/guide-bushings-templates/20328-bigjim.html

Note *** in the shot below you will see a PC 1 3/4HP mounded but it will take on the big 3 1/4 Freud router very easy with the handles on that's what I now have mounted ,most of the time..the drop in plate is 14" x 16 1/2" and just as flat as 3/4" thick glass..

======
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
528 Posts
Zero clearance helps to prevent chipping and to support the piece past the bit. If you had a 2" hole and were only using a 1/4" straight bit there could possibly be a time where some of the work material dipped down into the empty space.

I am guessing on the chipping as that is why you use one on a table saw. The other part, a piece not having support, that I learned the hard way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
I make inserts using my RAS mounted router out of both polycarbonate as well as wood.
The rabbet is machined slightly off center & a half turn using a two pronged homemade wrench tightens them in the plate hole without the need for screws.

Lee
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top