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Is the Jessem PHENOLIC MAST-R-TOP™ solid phenolic or is it phenolic laminated to MDF ?

2173 Views 16 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  reuelt
Anyone know if the Jessem PHENOLIC MAST-R-TOP™ is solid phenolic or is it phenolic laminated to MDF

The Jessem description says it is "laminated phenolic". Whatever that means

A good indication would be to look at the inside of the router plate cutout - does it look like MDF on the inside or does it look like phenolic. I would do this myself but with covid and all, can't get inside a store to take a look.

Background: I recently purchased and INCRA MDF router top and found it to be out of flat by 1/16 inch (front edge sagging down). I understand phenolic is more stable than MDF so was thinking of giving that a try.
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I realize this is an old post, but I'm wondering what they mean by "Laminated" also.

Does anyone know if it's solid phenolic or a wood core covered with phenolic?

Doug
I would say it is a thin phenolic laminate to both side of a ply/mdf core. There are many table tops like on the market.

I doubt it would be solid phenolic due to cost.

Phenolic plywood is somewhat of a misnomer as it should more realistically be called “phenolic faced plywood” or “phenolic covered plywood.” The veneer core plywood itself isn’t made of phenolic; it’s generally made of birch. What makes it “phenolic” is that both surface veneers are soaked in phenolic resin before attaching them to the plywood. This creates an extremely stable, smooth, durable, highly water resistant and attractive surface.

These face veneers can either be wood (normally birch), like the core veneers or a thick paper. In either case, they are limited to the core plys under pressure, creating a permanent bond. The actual material doesn’t matter so much, as it is merely the carrier for the phenolic rosin. A thick layer of this is not necessary, as it is nothing more than a coating. If a thicker layer of phenolic were to be used, there would be no additional advantage.

Some people refer to phenolic plywood as “resin impregnated plywood,” although this is an inaccurate description. The only layers of the plywood which are resin impregnated in phenolic plywood are the two face veneers. All the other layers are normal hardwood veneers.
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I doubt it would be solid phenolic due to cost.

Phenolic plywood is somewhat of a misnomer as it should more realistically be called “phenolic faced plywood” or “phenolic covered plywood.” The veneer core plywood itself isn’t made of phenolic; it’s generally made of birch. What makes it “phenolic” is that both surface veneers are soaked in phenolic resin before attaching them to the plywood
That was my first thought also, I'm guessing it's made out of something like concrete form board material.
A local supplier near me carries a product called Xtra Ply PSF that's used in the concrete industry for forms.

Doug
If I was going to make a large router table these days, I would use that Xtra Ply or BB ply and laminate it with Laminex.
laminate it with Laminex.
Haven't heard of Laminex here in the USA, it may be an Australia brand?

I've thought about using the Xrta Ply that has the phenolic coating on both sides, but the last time I checked on the price of a 4' X 8' sheet (only way it's sold) it was around $200. That was several years ago, so I imagine it's much higher now.

Doug
Hi @dwall174 ( Doug), may be Formica in US? Similar product...
I would say it is a thin phenolic laminate to both side of a ply/mdf core. There are many table tops like on the market.

I doubt it would be solid phenolic due to cost.
But Cabatec Australia claims their's are SOLID Phenolic (solid Phenolic core, with a hard wearing surface laminate).
e.g.

and
2
There are lots of options for making a great router table top. I bought one commercially that has a phenolic top when I had more money than time. But today I'd make it with sheets of Baltic Birch Ply (Apple Ply is similar. The BB ply comes in 60x60 inch squares, but I see it all the time in 30x60 sheets at Rockler. The key is to make sure it's flat. And for me that means buying it from a flat stack at a hardwood supplier.

I would cut two pieces to size, but with an extra 1/8th inch I could trim off later with a trim bit to give me a nice, clean edge.

I would buy the mounting plate (aluminum for me, not plastic), and use it to lay out the opening for the top piece. I'd cut the opening just inside the outline with a jig saw, and then and use the trim bit with boards for a template for the bit to run against for a very clean cut. Place several playing cards between the boards and plate for a good fit, but not too tight.. Use double stick tape to hold the boards in place. Like this:
Rectangle Font Electric blue Circle Parallel


Next I'd position the top piece with the opening on the second layer and mark the opening on the second sheet. Make sure the two pieces are aligned before you mark the opening so they are easy to align when gluing them

Now make a second outline about half an inch inside the full size opening outline. This will give you a lip so your plate can't fall through. Cut this out with a jig saw (same with the top) then the trim router and wood guides.

Note that most router plates have curved corners. When you drill the holes to start the jig saw cut, do so with a bit that matches the radius of that curve. You want a snug, not tight fit so you can lift the plate and router out from time to time.

Next, with a nice, even coating of glue that you smooth out as flat as possible, put the two cut and inside trimmed pieces together. You now have about a 1.4 inch thick top. Connecting the two pieces is a little tricky because the glue will let them float, so you should find a way to clamp top edge to bottom, left edge to right so the pieces are as perfectly lined up as possible. I would predrill holes up through the bottom and use one inch or 1n1/4 screws to hold them in place while the glue sets. Do not place screws where you will later add T Track, or remove them after the glue is set.

Next comes laying out straight edges as guides for trimming the edges. You will be using a very long trim bit, so you don't want a lot of material outside the trim line. 1/8 th is enough proud.

Next for me would be applying a laminate top. There are lots of videos on how to do that, but the key is do not let the two surfaces touch and make sure the laminate is larger than the top. You will use a trim bit with a top mounted bearing, and the newly finished edge will be the guide for the bearing.

Once applied, that top will be water resistant. Be careful cutting out the center of the opening on top, You can drill up through the bottom opening so you can tell where the opening should be, and use a short top bearing trim bit to perfect the cut.

Laminate the bottom layer if you wish.

Edges. I'd leave the corners square so it's easy to add an edge of 3/4 hardwood. You can round off the corners of that edging. Tack and glue that edging, being careful that it is even with the top. You do not want it to form an edge that will catch your work pieces. That means you should make certain that edging is perfectly straight. Take time to plane it down until it's perfectly flat on one edge. Start with an oversized piece and once you have the straight edge, use a table saw to trim it to exact width.

Last item is leveling the plate with the top. You can do this with screws up through the corners of the under layer. Blunt the end of the screws. Or for about $20 you can buy a set of levelers by Kreg. Elegant solution.
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This is a fairly inexpensive build and you can have a top any size you want. If you don't want to build your own cabinet, make the top large enough to fit a commercial vanity with doors and drawers. My table is smaller but If I made one, I'd go with a 37 x 24 inches so it fit on a standard bathroom vanity case. But you could mount it on any kind of table or cabinet you can find. It will last your lifetime if you do it this way, and you can pass it on to someone else.

And it's really easy to add T Tracks and fences to your new creation.
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There are lots of options for making a great router table top. I bought one commercially that has a phenolic top when I had more money than time. But today I'd make it with sheets of Baltic Birch Ply (Apple Ply is similar. The BB ply comes in 60x60 inch squares, but I see it all the time in 30x60 sheets at Rockler. The key is to make sure it's flat. And for me that means buying it from a flat stack at a hardwood supplier.

I would cut two pieces to size, but with an extra 1/8th inch I could trim off later with a trim bit to give me a nice, clean edge.

I would buy the mounting plate (aluminum for me, not plastic), and use it to lay out the opening for the top piece. I'd cut the opening just inside the outline with a jig saw, and then and use the trim bit with boards for a template for the bit to run against for a very clean cut. Place several playing cards between the boards and plate for a good fit, but not too tight.. Use double stick tape to hold the boards in place. Like this:
View attachment 403697

Next I'd position the top piece with the opening on the second layer and mark the opening on the second sheet. Make sure the two pieces are aligned before you mark the opening so they are easy to align when gluing them

Now make a second outline about half an inch inside the full size opening outline. This will give you a lip so your plate can't fall through. Cut this out with a jig saw (same with the top) then the trim router and wood guides.

Note that most router plates have curved corners. When you drill the holes to start the jig saw cut, do so with a bit that matches the radius of that curve. You want a snug, not tight fit so you can lift the plate and router out from time to time.

Next, with a nice, even coating of glue that you smooth out as flat as possible, put the two cut and inside trimmed pieces together. You now have about a 1.4 inch thick top. Connecting the two pieces is a little tricky because the glue will let them float, so you should find a way to clamp top edge to bottom, left edge to right so the pieces are as perfectly lined up as possible. I would predrill holes up through the bottom and use one inch or 1n1/4 screws to hold them in place while the glue sets. Do not place screws where you will later add T Track, or remove them after the glue is set.

Next comes laying out straight edges as guides for trimming the edges. You will be using a very long trim bit, so you don't want a lot of material outside the trim line. 1/8 th is enough proud.

Next for me would be applying a laminate top. There are lots of videos on how to do that, but the key is do not let the two surfaces touch and make sure the laminate is larger than the top. You will use a trim bit with a top mounted bearing, and the newly finished edge will be the guide for the bearing.

Once applied, that top will be water resistant. Be careful cutting out the center of the opening on top, You can drill up through the bottom opening so you can tell where the opening should be, and use a short top bearing trim bit to perfect the cut.

Laminate the bottom layer if you wish.

Edges. I'd leave the corners square so it's easy to add an edge of 3/4 hardwood. You can round off the corners of that edging. Tack and glue that edging, being careful that it is even with the top. You do not want it to form an edge that will catch your work pieces. That means you should make certain that edging is perfectly straight. Take time to plane it down until it's perfectly flat on one edge. Start with an oversized piece and once you have the straight edge, use a table saw to trim it to exact width.

Last item is leveling the plate with the top. You can do this with screws up through the corners of the under layer. Blunt the end of the screws. Or for about $20 you can buy a set of levelers by Kreg. Elegant solution.
View attachment 403698

This is a fairly inexpensive build and you can have a top any size you want. If you don't want to build your own cabinet, make the top large enough to fit a commercial vanity with doors and drawers. My table is smaller but If I made one, I'd go with a 37 x 24 inches so it fit on a standard bathroom vanity case. But you could mount it on any kind of table or cabinet you can find. It will last your lifetime if you do it this way, and you can pass it on to someone else.

And it's really easy to add T Tracks and fences to your new creation.
Thanks Tom for detailed instructions

In Australian suburbs where I live, you may NOT even have to buy any materials to make a Router table top.
I have got 3 suitable THICK 1 1/2" laminated FLAT waterproof materials out of kitchen sink worktop cutouts.
One after renovating my daugther's kitchen and 2 others I picked up from the kerb-side after 2 neighbours renovated their kitchens.
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Thanks Tom for detailed instructions

In Australian suburbs where I live, you may NOT even have to buy any materials to make a Router table top.
I have got 3 suitable THICK 1 1/2" laminated FLAT waterproof materials out of kitchen sink worktop cutouts.
One after renovating my daugther's kitchen and 2 others I picked up from the kerb-side after 2 neighbours renovated their kitchens.
That'll work just fine. Use a straight edge to make sure it's perfectly flat. Very important.

Use the four sticks method to get the top opening size, then mark half an inch in. Cut to inside line and use the router with a bearing to cut the shelf. A rabbeting bit will work to cut the shelf for the top opening. Easy. That stuff works fine. I bet you could find some larger pieces at a shop that makes counter tops. The stuff comes in large slabs.
That stuff works fine. I bet you could find some larger pieces at a shop that makes counter tops. The stuff comes in large slabs.
Counter tops are usually sold in 2400mmx600mmx38mm or 2400mmx900mmx38mm size.
TOO BIG for 1 router table.
Better to use our Portable Plunge Router + 1/2" bit + 30mm Guide bush + "worktop jig" + Circular Saw + drill and install a new kitchen worktop for somebody else.
The double sink cutout left over (which is much bigger than a usual router table size) can then be used to make a router table or some desks.

I used a different method than the 4 sticks method when I made my first router table.. I cut a precise18.4mm slot on a standard 18mm thick MDF top/bottom "door jamb" as my straight cut router jig. Used with the 18mm guide bush + 1/2" bit that were both bundled with the Hitachi M12V, I was able to cut straight dados with very precise depth, since the "MDF door jamb" is wide enough to give stability to the router. Only after the opening is routered with 1/2" dados will I then use a jig saw to cut out the hole. There was no need of any set screws levelers to adjust the height for the INSERT since Hitachi M12V can cut VERY precise depth when used with a MDF door jamb with 18mm slot for the bundled 18mm Guide Bush.+ 1/2" bundled straight bit.
I will be making another router table but I am not in a hurry since the existing one still works fine.
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I believe, at one time, Gifkins claimed their router was solid phenolic. It is available, but not common. I have a source that I use for plastics if required, but have not purchased solid phenolic.
Oak Park plates are phenolic,I believe…
I believe, at one time, Gifkins claimed their router was solid phenolic. It is available, but not common. I have a source that I use for plastics if required, but have not purchased solid phenolic.
Oak Park plates are phenolic,I believe…
Both
and

LOOKS IDENTICAL and about the same price,

So I guess, both table tops has SOLID PHENOLIC cores.
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I will be making a new router table but not in a hurry because I really want a horizontal router table + usual router table on the same new routing table.

Now testing G-codes for routing out opening for an Aluminium Insert ($AUD50/USD30) on my small CNC router (on foam material). Precise fit for size and depth.
Gas Machine Metal Auto part Circle


Will be routing out the mitre tracks etc on CNC too.
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I was suggesting a counter top production company that almost certainly will have some cutoffs, and the means to cut it for your. Not everyone has a CNC, so I try to stick to easy to do methods with pretty common tools. I have lots of gadgets and tools because I had more money than time in those days, but I rarely use the odd stuff. I prefer very simple methods using fairly standard tools.

If someone asked me what tools are the basics, it wouldn't be a terribly long list. CNC would not be on my list. To get one big enough to make it worthwhile, the biggest accessory it would have would be the stack of divorce papers. They are interesting tools and I like the precision, but not for what I like to make.
2
CNC would not be on my list.
I actually spend very little on CNC since I mainly program in G-codes directly and only use freeware or donation-ware. I mainly use CNC router to make jigs or fixtures for the portable circular saw or portable router.
BUT I would like to use my small CNC router to make a 34 strings lyre harp. I play a 27string lyre but the lowest note of B2 is often not enough to play music written for the 34 the Celtic harp. I also would like to cut a precision "kitchen-worktop jig" that would otherwise cost me hundreds of dollars to buy one.
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My friend used a plasmacam to cut a steel adapter ring for my Makita RT0700C-clone trimmer router to take Porta Cable type Guide bushes (FOC). It only took him 5 minutes using PlasmaCam's DesignEdge software.


3/4 Guide bushing with Free adapter ring,
The same adapter ring also fits the fixed base by going in between the fixed base and its sub-base so Porter Cable bushings can also be used on the fixed base of my RT0700C clone.
Gas stove Kitchen utensil Kitchen appliance Gas Kitchen stove

.
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