I watched the Router Workshop on the woodworking channel where Bob and Rick built a jewelry/lingerie chest with a mirror on top of the dresser and the frame around the mirror had a dovetail in each mitered edge and were joined together by a butterfly pin. I thought for sure I saw a double-dovetail bit being used. If so, where would you buy one? Thanks!
Is there such a thing as a double-dovetail bit?
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Sandy
I think this is what you are looking for ▼
14° Butterfly Spline Router Bits
http://www.toolstoday.com/displaytools.asp?num=0&pdescription=14°+Butterfly+Spline+Router+Bits
Bj
I think this is what you are looking for ▼
14° Butterfly Spline Router Bits
http://www.toolstoday.com/displaytools.asp?num=0&pdescription=14°+Butterfly+Spline+Router+Bits
Bj
Thank you, Bj for that quick answer! Now, I have another question. Is there a way around spending $52.00 + for the butterfly spline router bit, like maybe using sliding dovetails? Just wondering, or should I say hoping........
Thanks again,
Sandy
Thanks again,
Sandy
Sandy
Dovetail bit no I don't think so, because of the 14 deg. on the dovetail bit for just one of the errors you will run in to, but you can try and beat the price by using a table jig saw and try and cut one out to fit the dovetail slots it may take a time or two to get it right.
But you only need to make 4 of them.
Bj
Dovetail bit no I don't think so, because of the 14 deg. on the dovetail bit for just one of the errors you will run in to, but you can try and beat the price by using a table jig saw and try and cut one out to fit the dovetail slots it may take a time or two to get it right.
But you only need to make 4 of them.
Bj
Sandy
Just in case you don't get it done with the jig saw here are some links that are a bit lower in price.
Butterfly Spline Bits
$29.99 ▼ the lowest price one I found was this one. ▼
http://www.pricecutter.com/product.asp?pn=P19-4016&bhcd2=1146540114
https://secure9.nexternal.com/share...922996163&ProductID=47426&Target=products.asp
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7ER/103-4660275-1603017?v=glance&n=228013
Just in case you don't get it done with the jig saw here are some links that are a bit lower in price.
Butterfly Spline Bits
$29.99 ▼ the lowest price one I found was this one. ▼
http://www.pricecutter.com/product.asp?pn=P19-4016&bhcd2=1146540114
https://secure9.nexternal.com/share...922996163&ProductID=47426&Target=products.asp
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7ER/103-4660275-1603017?v=glance&n=228013
Hi Ed
It could be a bit tricky in 3/4" x 1 1/4" stock.
You know Bob & Rick when they get tricky with the router they really tricky.
It's a neat show how to build a lingerie chest with a mirror, I think it ran on the
http://www.thewoodworkingchannel.com/ last week or so.
Or on the PBS ....
It's just a neat way to hook up a 45 miter joint on the mirror frame.
Locks the miter right up.
Bj
It could be a bit tricky in 3/4" x 1 1/4" stock.
You know Bob & Rick when they get tricky with the router they really tricky.
It's a neat show how to build a lingerie chest with a mirror, I think it ran on the
http://www.thewoodworkingchannel.com/ last week or so.
Or on the PBS ....
It's just a neat way to hook up a 45 miter joint on the mirror frame.
Locks the miter right up.
Bj
Hi,
Just looked at my list of show and it must be the 601-604 ones. The first ones I have seen are the 1000 series.
I watch one show on the wwchannel but even with dsl it was very hard to watch too much drop outs in video and audio.... I wish it could just be downloaded and watch, the streaming is just not cutting it for me.
Anyway back to the joint, if the stock is 1-1/4 wide that is enough to work on but you only go a 1/4" deep. Did they use a contrasting wood in the joint? If not I think that would look good.
Ed
Just looked at my list of show and it must be the 601-604 ones. The first ones I have seen are the 1000 series.
I watch one show on the wwchannel but even with dsl it was very hard to watch too much drop outs in video and audio.... I wish it could just be downloaded and watch, the streaming is just not cutting it for me.
Anyway back to the joint, if the stock is 1-1/4 wide that is enough to work on but you only go a 1/4" deep. Did they use a contrasting wood in the joint? If not I think that would look good.
Ed
Hi Ed
They used Oak and Walnut,looks great.
"too much drop outs" same on this end some times, you can try this trick.
I stop it and then hit the play, it will relogon and pick it up and play.
I also use DSL at 640 not the best but it works.
I view it on my Laptop wireless most of the time but the desktop works great most of the time.
The Laptop is always on Signal Strength Low ( 2 Bars) but it works.
Bj
They used Oak and Walnut,looks great.
"too much drop outs" same on this end some times, you can try this trick.
I stop it and then hit the play, it will relogon and pick it up and play.
I also use DSL at 640 not the best but it works.
I view it on my Laptop wireless most of the time but the desktop works great most of the time.
The Laptop is always on Signal Strength Low ( 2 Bars) but it works.
Bj
Why not simply rip the spline on the TS ??
Set the blade off at an angle and cut.
Flip the piece and cut then move the fence to the other side of the piece and cut.
Take progressive cuts to get your spline a perfect fit.
Cut the Miter Dovetails with a little sled on the router table . the sled would hold the mitered corners pointy edge down at a 45-Deg angle as they go across the DT bit.
I'd nopt buy that $50.00 Spline bit unless I was planing a whole load of those DT mitered corners. If you are you might want to consider the DT bit from the same manufacturer as they are supposed to complement each other. Yes I'd guess that any DT bit of the same geometry/size just fine but, why pack a bag lunch when you are already paying for the boat ride.
Set the blade off at an angle and cut.
Flip the piece and cut then move the fence to the other side of the piece and cut.
Take progressive cuts to get your spline a perfect fit.
Cut the Miter Dovetails with a little sled on the router table . the sled would hold the mitered corners pointy edge down at a 45-Deg angle as they go across the DT bit.
I'd nopt buy that $50.00 Spline bit unless I was planing a whole load of those DT mitered corners. If you are you might want to consider the DT bit from the same manufacturer as they are supposed to complement each other. Yes I'd guess that any DT bit of the same geometry/size just fine but, why pack a bag lunch when you are already paying for the boat ride.
CliffR
That would work but it would be tricky at best.
Making 4 ,14deg or 12deg. cuts on the table saw to made a spline insert.
And have them all the same and true on a rip cut,tricky
They would need to be with in .001 to fit the dovetail pocket.
My table saw will cut true but I don't think I could do it but I would like someone try it and post a snapshot after they make one or two .
Rick and Bob made a jig to put in the dovetails slots, that's quick and easy one to make, but the spline is the tricky part ,it's like a inlay spline dead on.
Your eyes will go right to the spline when you look at the mirror frame.
Have a good one
Bj
That would work but it would be tricky at best.
Making 4 ,14deg or 12deg. cuts on the table saw to made a spline insert.
And have them all the same and true on a rip cut,tricky
They would need to be with in .001 to fit the dovetail pocket.
My table saw will cut true but I don't think I could do it but I would like someone try it and post a snapshot after they make one or two .
Rick and Bob made a jig to put in the dovetails slots, that's quick and easy one to make, but the spline is the tricky part ,it's like a inlay spline dead on.
Your eyes will go right to the spline when you look at the mirror frame.
Have a good one
Bj
Joined
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12,004 Posts
The easy method for making these cuts consistantly is to build a key miter jig. The one in this PDF is set up for a table saw but it would be virtually identical to one for a router table. For decoration and strength you would use a dovetail bit instead of the saw blade. The key splines would have to be hand trimmed to match the bevel of your dovetail bit.
Hi Mike
Thanks
This would work if the slot was running with the grain but this is running across the grain, it's bow-tie key spline ,14deg. on both ends of the bow-tie.
To put in the dovetail slot. ▼
The jig that Bob made was two boards (cut at 45) to hold the stock at a 45 deg. to the router table then put in as a center board (mirror frame) clamp and slot,all 3 parts at one time,need to push the jig 8 times to get all the dovetails in place.
Then hard part ,make a bow-tie spline to lock the (mirror frame) dovetails as one.
Bj
Thanks
This would work if the slot was running with the grain but this is running across the grain, it's bow-tie key spline ,14deg. on both ends of the bow-tie.
To put in the dovetail slot. ▼
The jig that Bob made was two boards (cut at 45) to hold the stock at a 45 deg. to the router table then put in as a center board (mirror frame) clamp and slot,all 3 parts at one time,need to push the jig 8 times to get all the dovetails in place.
Then hard part ,make a bow-tie spline to lock the (mirror frame) dovetails as one.
Bj
Joined
·
12,004 Posts
Ok BJ, I reread the question and the jig I showed is similar to what is needed. Only the front angle would be installed resulting in the required dovetail cut across the end grain. Making the bow-tie spline requires 4 passes of your stock against the dovetail bit.
bjbobj3 said:
I've been trying to invent a jig to make these butterfly spline without a bit and boy, it's been quite an adventure. I think $29.99 isn't so bad after all. I have one ready to cut into 4 pieces and try out on a frame I plan to make. Now, I have to figure out how to make that jig to hold each frame section at a 45 degree angle! Thanks for all the websites. If these butterflies don't fit, I'll be checking them out again.
I think it's sort of funny though that this advertisement shows the butterfly spline with the grain going the wrong direction (the one for $29.99)
Sandy
Hi Sandy
"wrong direction" = yep I saw that too, the guy that made the web page just didn't get it.
He must not be a wood worker, hahahaha.
It's a hard one to make I'm sure without the right bit.
I know it's 30.oo bucks but you can use it over and over for many jobs ,like a box,cabinets,doors,etc. so it may pay just to get one.note the 14deg.dovetail bit.
When I make the hard ones I make plastic jar full of them and then I have them on hand when I need one or two.
Like this one ▼
http://www.routerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2172
http://www.routerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2173
http://www.routerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2168
http://www.routerforums.com/showthread.php?t=2458
Note***
"Now, I have to figure out how to make that jig to hold each frame section at a 45 degree angle! "
Go back into your mine and see the jig that Bob made,it works and it's quick and easy one to make.
Two sticks the same size (wide) as the frame cut on a 45 deg. then clamp like a sandwich and use a push block to move it over the dovetail bit,8 times.
Now do you see it in your mine ?
Good Luck
Bj
"wrong direction" = yep I saw that too, the guy that made the web page just didn't get it.
He must not be a wood worker, hahahaha.
It's a hard one to make I'm sure without the right bit.
I know it's 30.oo bucks but you can use it over and over for many jobs ,like a box,cabinets,doors,etc. so it may pay just to get one.note the 14deg.dovetail bit.
When I make the hard ones I make plastic jar full of them and then I have them on hand when I need one or two.
Like this one ▼
http://www.routerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2172
http://www.routerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2173
http://www.routerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2168
http://www.routerforums.com/showthread.php?t=2458
Note***
"Now, I have to figure out how to make that jig to hold each frame section at a 45 degree angle! "
Go back into your mine and see the jig that Bob made,it works and it's quick and easy one to make.
Two sticks the same size (wide) as the frame cut on a 45 deg. then clamp like a sandwich and use a push block to move it over the dovetail bit,8 times.
Now do you see it in your mine ?
Good Luck
Bj
Hi Mike
I see what you are saying but take a hard look at the snapshot below.
Bow-Tie
Once you make the 1st pass your edge is gone and you have no chance of making a new pass that's true on the 2nd pass.
iA jig that holds the stock off the router table base may do it but it wll be tricky at best.
I guess I will try it just find out if I can get it done just for kicks.
Just for kicks you try it also
Have a good one
Bj
I see what you are saying but take a hard look at the snapshot below.
Bow-Tie
Once you make the 1st pass your edge is gone and you have no chance of making a new pass that's true on the 2nd pass.
iA jig that holds the stock off the router table base may do it but it wll be tricky at best.
I guess I will try it just find out if I can get it done just for kicks.
Just for kicks you try it also
Have a good one
Bj
Attachments
Sandy
I just got a email from Router Forms (Oak-Park) dated 5-11-06
http://www.thewoodworkingchannel.com/
see snapshot below
Bj
I just got a email from Router Forms (Oak-Park) dated 5-11-06
http://www.thewoodworkingchannel.com/
see snapshot below
Bj
Attachments
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