[Rebelwork Woodworking]

Looks like it should work fine, Mine does. It’s only 1/4…

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

Not sure why mine doesn't -I am staring at it and I see the plywood bending

My 1/4 is MDF a more stiffer product…

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

You who are saying 1/4" plywood will withstand toggle clamp force. Have you checked your base straightness after clamping a piece down? My old coping sled was 1/2" mdf and it couldn't take the slightest toggle clamp force without bending.

Mine works fine. Not sure what you’re doing wrong? I made cabinet doors for manual years without any problems.

So yes, I’m one who does not have a problem using 1/4..

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

....

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

Here is the one I use for crown doors. Has a 1/4 bottom. Patterns of various sizes...

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

You’re only holding the part enough to eliminate vibration and secure the part. It doesn’t have to have a death grip..

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

If you can get the aluminum that’s great.

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

I’m not sure what you’re trying to hold down.

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

Hmmm I think that buying a bit collet extender will give me more flexibility in building future jigs

I had one, never again..

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

With the Jacobs extension I had a raised panel bit come out. Once was enough for me.

If you want to use one, you should. I can only speak for my situation.

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

No need to try, it will bend. Check this review (link in end of post) of different commercial coping sleds and their comments about if it bends under load. Just as I mentioned earlier they also see bending problems with 1/2" mdf, twice the thickness of 1/4". Phenolic or aluminium is your base material if you want to go thin, but even with those materials there is no commercial sled made as thin as 1/4". Router-Table Accessories

Your guessing. I show pictures because it’s a fact. Not a guess. i don’t know what your doing wrong.

I think you way over clamp..

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

You have to do your own thing. You only need to hold the part from vibration..This allows me to go through the cutter and back without incident..

My door material is 13/16 and it is set without any problems..

My leg taper jig has a 1/4 bottom.,

“You who are saying 1/4" plywood will withstand toggle clamp force.” Thats going to depend on how much force you apply…

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

You need a clamp only at the runner location. I wouldn’t put one on each side. This could cause bowing..

look at the picture I showed you. This has worked for almost 20 years..

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

I got all kinds of plywood like you use in your jig. I wouldnt use it, but if it works for you , go for it

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

I would always have a runner for this application..

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

Guarantees the part is against the cutter.

Jig does all the work…

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

Bump it against the fence

What are you trying run?

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

No different than a table saw fence, blade and miter slot.,

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

#1….. I use both fence and slot along with fence on the the table saw for tenons.
#2…You treat the router table or shaper the same.
#3… This is why we have Forman’s/ lead mans in place to keep things setup correctly and safe ..l


its your shop, do as you please..

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

You are your own foreman in the your shop. When I set up shapers, I always have to:assume the guy running it may be experienced, but sometimes it could be someone for the first time operating a machine.

The reason we always set machines up to be as safe as possible regular does to whom might be operating it that day.

”What if” is the first thing you should ask yourself when setting up a machine..