[Rebelwork Woodworking]

You are your own foreman in the your shop. When I set up shapers, I always have to:assume the guy running it may be experienced, but sometimes it could be someone for the first time operating a machine.

The reason we always set machines up to be as safe as possible regular does to whom might be operating it that day.

”What if” is the first thing you should ask yourself when setting up a machine..

 

[MiniMe]

I agree the jig with a runner is locked down to a degree.
Setting the fence parallel with the miter slot is not a problem, actually the jig helps with that, if I push the fence against the jig I know it will sit parallel with the miter slot and the fence line will traverse the center of the bit.
The problem that you are mentioning appears when the fence need to be way behind the bit. (that is an inland cut to say so and not at the end of the workpiece)

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

There are lot of way to run a router table. Use this, move this , cut this, put it back for this,. Etc. Best to just ask before you setup.

Right now I thought the question was about the sled and the miter track..

 

[Ola C]

Setting the fence parallel with the miter slot is not a problem, actually the jig helps with that, if I push the fence against the jig I know it will sit parallel with the miter slot and the fence line will traverse the center of the bit.

That's only for one fence setting. Sometimes it needs to be further back, sometimes further front. It's enough to change bit and use one with slightly different bearing diameter (if using these kind of bits which is quite common for coping sled operstions) to having to move the fence. Can be done using shims or other method but it complicates things a lot having to align the fence parallell to the miter slot.

 

[Rebelwork Woodworking]

Your just going to have to start using it to understand each need..

You will have numerous situations where you won’t need the miter track. Depends on the application..

 

[MiniMe]

That's only for one fence setting. Sometimes it needs to be further back, sometimes further front. It's enough to change bit and use one with slightly different bearing diameter (if using these kind of bits which is quite common for coping sled operstions) to having to move the fence. Can be done using shims or other method but it complicates things a lot having to align the fence parallell to the miter slot.

True and I agree
I was just looking at the mechanics of a fence adjuster from the back side.
There has to be one like the below one that adjusts both sides in sync.
This might not work for my Bosch router table as it has slots not channel slots

 

[Ola C]

True and I agree
I was just looking at the mechanics of a fence adjuster from the back side.
There has to be one like the below one that adjusts both sides in sync.
This might not work for my Bosch router table as it has slots not channel slots

Yes, my fence for instance, video below. You should search for router fence micro adjust to get relevant hits and this is what you imo need to run the coping sled with a miter bar without too much hazzle.

 

[MiniMe]

Yes something like that but I will let the needs to take me to the moment when I need to buy/build that.
Right now what I built is enough for my needs/skills. I am just a weekend warrior hanging out with the pros around here
Thanks for all the advice guys