I'm afraid I can't visualize what you mean Orlando.
Thanks for clarifying. I have never seen or used that type of operation with removing layers of boards to set depth of cuts.Herb, that thing sticking up is a shoulder bolt that prevents the MDF from slipping. The cutter is a 3/8" diameter with a 1-1/4" flute length and is under the stick. The depth of cut is 1-1/4" done in 1/4" increments by removing one of the 1/4" lifts as you go. So in the picture only 1/4" of the bit is exposed since there four 1/4" lifts still in the table.
My pleasure. It's something I got from Pat Warner's books. His rationale was that instead of making a number of height adjustments (mostly going up) to arrive at your desired depth, you could arrive at your desired depth without making height adjustments by setting the cutter height at the depth you want, having a series of lifts, and remove one at a time. I would surmise that the thickness is arbitrary anywhere from 1/4" - 3/4" and possibly even mix-matching them. He used MDF and in one book I saw them out of acrylic which probably provides more thickness options than MDF, is flatter, and more durable.Thanks for clarifying. I have never seen or used that type of operation with removing layers of boards to set depth of cuts.
HErb
I have seen this technique in another instructional video where the instructor took 1/8" pieces of stacked brown board to incrementally increase the depth of cut on each pass bu removing one, make the cut, remove again, and so on till all the boards were removed. This allowed the accuracy of a one time bit height being set without a bunch of adjustments. Actually made very good sense especially for those without router lifts with excellent repeatability. Even with repeatability it makes sense to make one height adjustment and work your way down. I can't locate that video but it's on Fine Woodworking's site and by Bob Van ****.My pleasure. It's something I got from Pat Warner's books. His rationale was that instead of making a number of height adjustments (mostly going up) to arrive at your desired depth, you could arrive at your desired depth without making height adjustments by setting the cutter height at the depth you want, having a series of lifts, and remove one at a time. I would surmise that the thickness is arbitrary anywhere from 1/4" - 3/4" and possibly even mix-matching them. He used MDF and in one book I saw them out of acrylic which probably provides more thickness options than MDF, is flatter, and more durable.
For 1/4 or less width groove, you could use a 1/8th flat tooth rip blade (GlueLine comes to mind) on the table saw. Line the cutters up to cut one side, flip the piece and then cut the second side."This could easily be done with a table saw"
-Tom
Yes. My preference.
Thanks, the method seems good and safe to me.The written description is what confused me.
I'm building a router table based on the Pat Warner's design as shown in his "The Router Table CD." I'll have the same type of mortice and tenons to attach the rails to the legs and use the same technique (MDF lifts as in the pictures). My concern is that 4 of the mortices that are on the face of the legs (2 for the top rails and 2 for the bottom rails) are away from the fence, while the other 4 are on the edge. The ones on the edge are ok. It's the ones on the face that is my concern. They will be 1-3/8" away from the fence. The ones closest to the fence are only 1/2" away. Is it safe to cut the ones on the face away from the fence a safe thing to do? I've read about not trapping the work between the fence and the cutter but I'm not sure if it applies only to cutting on the edge of the piece but also to slots. I have his acrylic morticer which I could make the face mortices without a problem.
Thanks for the advice.