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that's new price...
everybody I know that has one of them hardly ever uses it, if at all - me included... too cumbersome...
use a dado blade and flat cut for simplicity and ease... fit w/ a shoulder plane...
or your router table for a plan ''B''...
get you a dado blade... the Freuds are hard to beat for quality and value... and one would have come in handy for your pantry standards...
 
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I have a Delta, and I've noticed they're all about the same. It took me awhile to figure it out. I really don't use it much so if you can get it used, I'd go for it. You might want to get a shoulder plane since it would be a near miracle to get a perfect thickness tennon on the saw. I got a cheapo on Amazon and spent a lot of time tuning it up and sharpening so it really works well. Take light cuts on the tennon, and if it's centered, do both sides equally until it fits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
that's new price...
everybody I know that has one of them hardly ever uses it, if at all - me included... too cumbersome...
use a dado blade and flat cut for simplicity and ease... fit w/ a shoulder plane...
or your router table for a plan ''B''...
get you a dado blade... the Freuds are hard to beat for quality and value... and one would have come in handy for your pantry standards...
Stick, you have such subtle tender tactful way about you. I'll get me a Freud dado.
 

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Bryan, I had a similar Delta years ago and only used it a few times. I wasn't fond of it and went back to the dado and router table method Stick suggests. You will be surprised at how often you will go to the dado blades once you get them, they are a little spendy, but you will find all kinds of uses for them, I sure do.

Herb
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey, I just Amazon ordered the Freud 8" dado set, just the $91.00 version and not the more expensive set.
I know it'll be nice to have, I've wanted one for a while now. I do have their box joint set and am real happy with it.
 

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Dado sets are handy for lots of jobs. I have the Delta version of that jig and I use it a fair bit. It is cumbersome and a pain to adjust to an accurate setting but they do a good job. I paid $130 for mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have a Delta, and I've noticed they're all about the same. It took me awhile to figure it out. I really don't use it much so if you can get it used, I'd go for it. You might want to get a shoulder plane since it would be a near miracle to get a perfect thickness tennon on the saw. I got a cheapo on Amazon and spent a lot of time tuning it up and sharpening so it really works well. Take light cuts on the tennon, and if it's centered, do both sides equally until it fits.

Well Tom, I was afraid it wouldn't be used much. I hadn't heard about the shoulder plane and will order on when I start actively making tennons. Maybe later with this project.
 

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Well Tom, I was afraid it wouldn't be used much. I hadn't heard about the shoulder plane and will order on when I start actively making tenons. Maybe later with this project.
I have the same one as Chuck...
a quality miter gauge and a dado blade is very fast, clean accurate and simple...
as for the shoulder plane.. the Stanley Sweetheart series (92) are the absolute pits not to mention a pain to use...
so this leaves a lot of other ones to be considered..
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have the same one as Chuck...
a quality miter gauge and a dado blade is very fast, clean accurate and simple...
as for the shoulder plane.. the Stanley Sweetheart series (92) are the absolute pits not to mention a pain to use...
so this leaves a lot of other ones to be considered..
I'll ask for help when I get there.

I have a pretty small, and old, plane that was my father-in-law's but whenever I've tried to use it - it was the pits. I don't know how to set it up so I never developed and interest. I can see where if you had a decent one and knew how to use it, it could be pretty handy. I'm not there yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Why not make you own jig? Incremental Tools sells their jig and fixture components and will supply the instructions to make your own tenoning jig. The advantage is that it uses a standard rip blade - make the face cuts with the part flat on the saw table and then clamp to the fixture to make the cheek cuts.

INCRA TOOLS :: Jig & Fixture Components :: Build-It System :: INCRA Free Jig Plans - 006

Or you can go more basic yet

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dibsbRYgLps
Thanks Tom, that was good video. I believe I can make my own jig now.
 

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First you probably need to make a dado insert for your table saw. You will need it with your new dado blade. I use plywood for my Unisaw to make a dado insert. While you are at it you may want to make zero insert for your saw blade.
 

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I'll ask for help when I get there.

I have a pretty small, and old, plane that was my father-in-law's but whenever I've tried to use it - it was the pits. I don't know how to set it up so I never developed and interest. I can see where if you had a decent one and knew how to use it, it could be pretty handy. I'm not there yet.
is it an old shoulder plane???

.
 
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A lot of planes don't cut to the edge like a block plane.

Stick, how would a rabbit plane compare to a shoulder plane? I was thinking about using it for trimming a tenon.
A shoulder plane would be ALOT easier on the knuckles! When it comes to tenons, this is were the shoulder plane shines.
 
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I've haven't done much tenoning work but would like to on this next project.

$50.00 doesn't sound like to much to ask and since the ad is 30 days old so the jig is probably gone
but if not, is a jig like this any good?

https://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/d/tenoning-jig/6323895705.html
Honestly IMHO its not a bad jig at all...and barring any other options not a bad choice. As mentioned, very fussy to set up but once you get the hang of it..that dog will hunt...

But ya done good going with the stacked dado option...for a couple extra dollars, you'll get way more bang for you buck...
 
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shoulder planes come in different widths to fit inside of dadoes and grooves...
rabbet planes are wider as where width really isn't an issue because a rabbet is open on one edge...
as for using a rabbet plane to trim/clean a tenon... why not???
also the irons on a rabbet plane can be set as skewed and at lower angles than a shoulder plane is....
the right size shoulder plane will handle dadoes, grooves and rabbets...
the rabbet plane does... well... rabbets...

As for the block planes.. I can't recall ever seeing a block plane's iron flush w/ the outside edge of the body...
you need the iron to the side of the body to cut/trim clean inside corners so you don't leave a shoulder..
you could clean/trim rabbets and tenons w an LA block plane but you'd need to finish up by hand w/ a sharp chisel..
 
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