Posts by bobj3
1 - 9 of 22 Posts
Gazzalod
Here's a tip I use all the time.
All routers and router bits have a voice ♫ ♪ ,they will tell you when they are doing the job you ask them to do.
i.e. Bits will chip at you when they have chips backing up and they need to get out,
they will also tell you when they are cutting in the stock just right.
The same is true for router motors, they will tell you that you over loading them or just working them to light or just right,it's like a new language that you need to learn.
Have a good weekend
Bj
Here's a tip I use all the time.
All routers and router bits have a voice ♫ ♪ ,they will tell you when they are doing the job you ask them to do.
i.e. Bits will chip at you when they have chips backing up and they need to get out,
they will also tell you when they are cutting in the stock just right.
The same is true for router motors, they will tell you that you over loading them or just working them to light or just right,it's like a new language that you need to learn.
Have a good weekend
Bj
Hi Dave
The router table is always to small when it comes to case work or a book case.
The jig below works best for me, it will put in a dovetail, dado or rabbits.
I use a 23/32" bit for the dado most of the time (for 3/4" plywood).
It's a quick and easy jig to make and it's true, just clamp the bar down and drop on the router or push with the dovetail bit in chuck.
The clamp you can get from just about any home center like ( Home Depot ) and others the key to this one is the Alum.bar on the side of the router base it must fit in to the slot on the clamp and move free but stay true.
I also made one for my power hand saw (6" bearcat) to cut up the nasty 4' x 8' plywood that's hard for one guy to move over a table saw and keep it true.
Saw jig below
http://www.routerforums.com/27897-post17.html
Hope this helps
Bj
The router table is always to small when it comes to case work or a book case.
The jig below works best for me, it will put in a dovetail, dado or rabbits.
I use a 23/32" bit for the dado most of the time (for 3/4" plywood).
It's a quick and easy jig to make and it's true, just clamp the bar down and drop on the router or push with the dovetail bit in chuck.
The clamp you can get from just about any home center like ( Home Depot ) and others the key to this one is the Alum.bar on the side of the router base it must fit in to the slot on the clamp and move free but stay true.
I also made one for my power hand saw (6" bearcat) to cut up the nasty 4' x 8' plywood that's hard for one guy to move over a table saw and keep it true.
Saw jig below
http://www.routerforums.com/27897-post17.html
Hope this helps
Bj
Attachments
Your Welcome Dave
I just Posted a how to make a mortise jig of the forum.
It's a easy jig to make and it works .
"clamping a second piece of wood " down will work but you will get drifting issues but the jig will fix that.
I clamp all the stock I need to make a book case to the work bench and then cut all of them at one time ,in this way they all line up when you go to put them in place.
Sliding Dovetails can be a pain if they don't line up right on the button as I'm sure you found out by now, they can't be off a 1/16 like the dado.
The jig will keep them true.... and they can't drift off because the jig is in the rail of the clamp.
Just a note:: you can get the alum.stock when you get the clamp and then check it to make sure it fits the slot, the one I found was a 1 1/2" x 1 1/4" in the junk box under the work bench for a equipment bracket ,I also found some in a old alum. lawn chair that worked out just right for the power hand saw.
Have a good one.
Bj
I just Posted a how to make a mortise jig of the forum.
It's a easy jig to make and it works .
"clamping a second piece of wood " down will work but you will get drifting issues but the jig will fix that.
I clamp all the stock I need to make a book case to the work bench and then cut all of them at one time ,in this way they all line up when you go to put them in place.
Sliding Dovetails can be a pain if they don't line up right on the button as I'm sure you found out by now, they can't be off a 1/16 like the dado.
The jig will keep them true....
and they can't drift off because the jig is in the rail of the clamp.Just a note:: you can get the alum.stock when you get the clamp and then check it to make sure it fits the slot, the one I found was a 1 1/2" x 1 1/4" in the junk box under the work bench for a equipment bracket ,I also found some in a old alum. lawn chair that worked out just right for the power hand saw.
Have a good one.
Bj
You're Welcome GoonMan
I also had the same error with old one and then I put my hat on and said O I get it.
Parts are not right. (the plan one size only) can't have that,time for a rework.
You can also make taller side parts that just bolt on for 3" to 6" or more.
I hope you enjoy like I do.
Bj
I also had the same error with old one and then I put my hat on and said O I get it.
Parts are not right. (the plan one size only) can't have that,time for a rework.
You can also make taller side parts that just bolt on for 3" to 6" or more.
I hope you enjoy like I do.
Bj
Hi Gilbear
You're right about
"many ways to skin a cat"
This jig just drops in the channel of the clamp bar.
"there's no additional measuring" as well on this one.
i.e. to cut a 24" board off the 4' x 8' you would just mark the cut at 26 7/8 " put the clamp on the marks lock it down,drop the saw in the slot of the clamp and cut away and you will come away with a true sq.cut 24" board, it can't move off the center of the cut because it's in the slot of the Clamp'N Tool Guide.
You don't need to guide or hold it down just a light push and you done.
The mass of the saw and the base board will do most of the work.
No blade jams,no burn marks,no side cuts,no nicks,just a clean cut.
Bj
You're right about
"many ways to skin a cat"
This jig just drops in the channel of the clamp bar.
"there's no additional measuring" as well on this one.
i.e. to cut a 24" board off the 4' x 8' you would just mark the cut at 26 7/8 " put the clamp on the marks lock it down,drop the saw in the slot of the clamp and cut away and you will come away with a true sq.cut 24" board, it can't move off the center of the cut because it's in the slot of the Clamp'N Tool Guide.
You don't need to guide or hold it down just a light push and you done.
The mass of the saw and the base board will do most of the work.
No blade jams,no burn marks,no side cuts,no nicks,just a clean cut.
Bj
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