something like these???I used one if those before in a factory I worked at. They had toggle clamps added to it to hold the board down. For long boards this is faster and more accurate than a jointer. The principle is the same as putting a log on a sawmill carriage and running it past the head saw.
Vince , my thoughts exactly, only you said it better.I been scratching my head on how I would be able to do that on a jointer without clamping it to a straightedge, then might as well just do it in one pass on the TS.@harrysin - the problem with using a jointer in this instance is the amount of curve in the board. If you put the convex side down, how are you going to reference the board to achieve a straight edge? The board will follow it's own curve on the bed of the jointer. If you put the convex side down, then you will need to have both ends of the board referencing off the jointer table. Using this method of attaching a straight edge referencing off the table saw fence is the easiest solution.
It's not the cheapie brand, it's their industrial line. Does what it claims and lots of carbide for resharpening. Full Kerf too.Tom, I'd agree with the exception of the choice of blade. My experience with Freud blades is abysmal. Actually, the router method is superior, anyway.