Working on this as a tip, hopefully I will have it posted soon.49Hodge said:A few years ago on the Router Workshop you featured building a stair case and had a jig for doing so. Where can I get the info to build this jig as I'm in the midst of building two sets of stairs.
Thanks so much for your help.
check out some of mi pic i got some home made jigsA few years ago on the Router Workshop you featured building a stair case and had a jig for doing so. Where can I get the info to build this jig as I'm in the midst of building two sets of stairs.
Thanks so much for your help.
OTOH, Phil's other suggestion MASTER Stair Jig c/w Carry Bag Check our Worktop Jigs on eBay (end time 29-Sep-10 13:36:25 BST) is probably cost effective.
Cheers
Peter
Hey guys, as a stair and handrail manufacturer all the purchased jigs only suit one style of wedge angle and tread overhang. I make several types, open stringers don't require a jig, just a square and a few brass stops and a steady hand on a skill saw for the 45 degree riser cut. For a curved stringer lay it out on a 1/8" piece of ply and transfer it to the stringer after it's bent. Here a few simple jigs for closed stringers, one for a 1 1/16" tread and one for a 1 1/2" tread. 6 degree wedge angle is what I use, but use what ever u want. Spruce treads I use a 1" overhang, solids 1 1/2", returns 1 1/2" from open stringer, and 1 1/2" past riser. For a closed curved stringer use 3/8" material for your jig, it's easy to form to the stringer for hand routing.
Of course all the stringers I produce are made on a large CNC machine, as are the jigs. I make them mainly for the guys doing side jobs and home use. Curved stringers can be pre routed then formed, but layout is paramount.
Got 'em. Thanks Peter.
when making themi am not familiar with this jig, but i have to ask what it is used for, are you to route the 2x stringers, or are you looking to mortise the ends of the skirtboards to accept the ends of your treads?
That being said, i would not use a router for my stringer, use a circular saw with a new blade, otherwise you will be there all day and that kind of perfection isnt necessary especially since your stringers will be crowned etc....
now to route the ends of your treads into the skirt boards like a prebuilt application, if it is a straight stair, its easy. just layout your rise and run on a piece of plywood, i like 1/2 inch min, get a length long enough for 4 treads worth, then i pin nail 1x2 around where my treads will be, use a plunge router with a flush bit and route out where the tread will be, put a 1x2 cap on the plywood so it will hook onto your skirtboards, make sure it overhangs both sides so you can flip the jig over to route your left and right skirt. then after you route the first 4, slide your jig up the hill until the last routed is perfectly in line with the bottom of the jig, clamp it route 3 more, and back up the hill again.
i know this is a lot of explaining, and a pic would be worth a thousand words, but i dont have one, and all i can tell you is to get your jig perfect, if your staircase is 18 rises, and your 4 step jig is off 1/16th, your top step will be 1/4 inch off or more. good luck, i can take pics of the jig and the product if your interested. Chris
